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[Boatman]

The following is what I have done to my 05 and now have a nice, fun to drive, riding/handling bike.  I would like to thank those that have helped thru PM's and topics I found covered using the search feature.  These changes were done by me one at a time and follows is the order in which they were done.
1) Lubed steering neck bearings-took over 1/2 tube of grease at a cost of $4.00 ..
2) Installed Progressive 12.5" std duty rear shocks.  I weigh 210 #'s and believe you have to be over 275#'s to need the HD's.  They are set at 3 turns from full soft.
PRO's-I now have a rear suspension that works.  Makes the bike handle much better .  Cost $400.00  Cons-none
3) Installed Velva Ride front mount.  Cost $75.00
PRO's- decel vibration is gone and handlebars shake about 25% less even though my old mount was not broke.
4) Installed True-Track.  Cost $395.00..  
PRO's-bike feels tighter yet, is all I can say.
5) Installed HD's urethane handlebar risor bushing kit.  Cost $40.00
PRO's-handlebar vibration at idle down another 25%..
6) Changed front fork oil.  Took out 9 ounces each side.  Put back in 11 ounces type E oil ea side (manual states 10.6).  Cost $8.00
PRO's-finally have a front suspension thay works.
7) Installed Metzeler ME880's.  Cost- $210.00 for pair (including shipping), $40.00 each at dealer to mount and balance.  The front has a 67 load rating and the rear a 77 (402 Dunlops are 72 and 77).  I ran 36F and 38R in the Dunlops.  Am running 40F and 46 rear in the ME880's.  For 2 up, Metzeler wants you to run 42F and 50 rear.
Pro's-
A)  They ride better than the Dunlops even at the higher pressures.  There are no jolts crossing tar strips.
B)  They go straight down the road.  They are not  effected by grooves cut in the road.
C)  You change from different road surfaces and levels with no problems.  Changing lanes on raised stripes are no problem.
D)  Easy to clean the sidewalls-no grooves.

For about $1200 and me doing the work, the SEEG2 is a lot more fun to ride.  Everyone may not like my results but hopefully it can help some people make decisions like reading and PMing has helped me make good choices for my money.
Now to save for the Corbin and the Zipper's cams.  It never ends.  No 07 in my future.

[Twolanerider]

Bob, a question on your #5 (the handlebar riser bushings).  Were those done the same time as other parts of the work or is the impression you get of their difference a definitely stand-alone?

I've never run them on this bike or the prior Road Kings.  I'm asking, however, because I've heard complaints from riding buddies who have used them that the urethane stiffened things up enough that vibration through the bars was actually worse.  Even to the point of making mirrors all but unusable.  

Thanks,
Don

[Boatman]

2Lane-
The front fork oil change and risor bushings were done at the same time.  My mirror shake is less with the MOCO urethane bushings.  The originals are hard rubber with grooves and a steel bushing in between where the urethane are soft with a plastic sleeve.  I torqued per the specs in the instructions.  On the RH side at the bottom is a large washer that I used over and moved the ground wire on the LH side to the handlebar clamp.  After rereading your post, I have no mirror shake at speed and when stopped, the mirror shake is a lot less.
Hope this helps, Bob

[ccr]

So very good to hear that you have made the modifications it took for you to get your bike dialed in to the state that works for you.  Nice positive report, thanks for sharing.   [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]    [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]    

[Garznhogs]

Boatman, great report. I love summaries like this... Thanks!  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Garz

[Twolanerider]

2Lane-
The front fork oil change and risor bushings were done at the same time.  My mirror shake is less with the MOCO urethane bushings.  The originals are hard rubber with grooves and a steel bushing in between where the urethane are soft with a plastic sleeve.  I torqued per the specs in the instructions.  On the RH side at the bottom is a large washer that I used over and moved the ground wire on the LH side to the handlebar clamp.  After rereading your post, I have no mirror shake at speed and when stopped, the mirror shake is a lot less.
Hope this helps, Bob

Thanks Bob.  Appreciate the extra description.  

Things to consider........   [smiley=nixweiss.gif]

[SneakyPete]

The following is what I have done to my 05 and now have a nice, fun to drive, riding/handling bike.  I would like to thank those that have helped thru PM's and topics I found covered using the search feature.  These changes were done by me one at a time and follows is the order in which they were done.
1) Lubed steering neck bearings-took over 1/2 tube of grease at a cost of $4.00 ..
2) Installed Progressive 12.5" std duty rear shocks.  I weigh 210 #'s and believe you have to be over 275#'s to need the HD's.  They are set at 3 turns from full soft.
PRO's-I now have a rear suspension that works.  Makes the bike handle much better .  Cost $400.00  Cons-none
3) Installed Velva Ride front mount.  Cost $75.00
PRO's- decel vibration is gone and handlebars shake about 25% less even though my old mount was not broke.
4) Installed True-Track.  Cost $395.00..  
PRO's-bike feels tighter yet, is all I can say.
5) Installed HD's urethane handlebar risor bushing kit.  Cost $40.00
PRO's-handlebar vibration at idle down another 25%..
6) Changed front fork oil.  Took out 9 ounces each side.  Put back in 11 ounces type E oil ea side (manual states 10.6).  Cost $8.00
PRO's-finally have a front suspension thay works.
7) Installed Metzeler ME880's.  Cost- $210.00 for pair (including shipping), $40.00 each at dealer to mount and balance.  The front has a 67 load rating and the rear a 77 (402 Dunlops are 72 and 77).  I ran 36F and 38R in the Dunlops.  Am running 40F and 46 rear in the ME880's.  For 2 up, Metzeler wants you to run 42F and 50 rear.
Pro's-
A)  They ride better than the Dunlops even at the higher pressures.  There are no jolts crossing tar strips.
B)  They go straight down the road.  They are not  effected by grooves cut in the road.
C)  You change from different road surfaces and levels with no problems.  Changing lanes on raised stripes are no problem.
D)  Easy to clean the sidewalls-no grooves.

For about $1200 and me doing the work, the SEEG2 is a lot more fun to ride.  Everyone may not like my results but hopefully it can help some people make decisions like reading and PMing has helped me make good choices for my money.
Now to save for the Corbin and the Zipper's cams.  It never ends.  No 07 in my future.

Boatman,

Where did you get the recommendations on the Metzeler tire pressures?  I have the same tires running 38 front and 40 rear solo, I think the max rating is 42 psi.

[grc]

Boatman,

Where did you get the recommendations on the Metzeler tire pressures?  I have the same tires running 38 front and 40 rear solo, I think the max rating is 42 psi.

From the Metzler site, they recommend 38 front, 44 rear:  http://www.us.metzelermoto.com/tyres/fitment_chart/fitment.action?manifacturerID=116&modelID=04-05+++FLHT%2C+FLHTC%2FCI+Elec.+Glide&confirm=true&IMAGE1.x=44&IMAGE1.y=8   Elsewhere on the site they recommend increasing the pressure by 3 psi when carrying a passenger.

Jerry

[Boatman]

Pete-
Just what Jerry said from Metzeler's website.  The front tire has a maximum load capacity at 42 PSI and the rear tire 50 PSI (directly from the sidewall of the tires)..  I have a front 130/90-16 and the rear is a
140/90-16  ..  On one area of the website, they said to put in the maximum pressures for 2 up..  Even with the added air pressures, they ride and handle better than the 402's I took off.  The dealer was use to mounting the Dunlops and only put 36 PSI in each new 880.

[TallyClassic]

How did you change the oil in the front forks?  The manual says I can just drain the right one.  This is a conventional fork.  But the left is a cartridge and must be removed to drain and refill???

[grc]

How did you change the oil in the front forks?  The manual says I can just drain the right one.  This is a conventional fork.  But the left is a cartridge and must be removed to drain and refill???

Tally,

The stock suspension on the '05 e'glides had one damper rod and one cartridge damper fork leg, but the SEEG's came with the lowered suspension which has damper rods on both sides, similar to the Road King suspension.  Therefore, you can drain both sides on the bike.  You won't be able to get all the oil out that way, but you should be able to get about 80-90% of it.  Suggestion:  collect the oil you drain from each leg and measure it, and then add that amount of new oil.  This method should be good for the first change, and when you change the front tire at 20k+ miles you can then disassemble the forks and do a thorough cleaning/inspection/refill.  Once the front wheel and fender are off the bike it's not that much more effort than the simple drain and fill method.

Jerry

[SneakyPete]

Pete-
Just what Jerry said from Metzeler's website.  The front tire has a maximum load capacity at 42 PSI and the rear tire 50 PSI (directly from the sidewall of the tires)..  I have a front 130/90-16 and the rear is a
140/90-16  ..  On one area of the website, they said to put in the maximum pressures for 2 up..  Even with the added air pressures, they ride and handle better than the 402's I took off.  The dealer was use to mounting the Dunlops and only put 36 PSI in each new 880.

Ok I see it on the website.  I have the same front but I am using a 150/80 16 rear and the max pressure rating on the sidewall is 42 psi.  So I will go with 38 front/42 rear.  Thanks.

[mr_magoo]

I run metzlers and run 46 in the front 50 in the rear.