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[SID8D2]

I am putting in a set of SE tapered adjustable push rods (due to head work) and don't quite understand what the directions are telling me

It says:
(1) adjust to zero clearance
(2) turn adjuster 2 1/2 turns further (lengthening push rod) and tighten lock nut.

My question is that there seems to be no way to turn adjuster another 1/2 turn let alone 2 1/2 turns. If I were to ref on it and lengthen the push rod wouldn't I be opening the valve? Something seems screwy.
 
    Please Advise

Also the shop manual says to intall lifters with the oil hole inboard, I presume that mean facing the jugs? I could have sworn when I removed them (during cam swap) the oil hole was facing away from the jugs.

Any help from those more knowledgeable than me would be apprechated
 
    Thanks

[efrbc1]

Adjust the pushrod by hand until zero clearance.  This means no up and down movement of the pushrod - by hand.  Make sure it is seated on/in the lifter and at the top into the rocker arm.  It takes a little practice doing this - as you expand the pushrod, you can get it to move up and down.  The more it expands, the less it will move until it is a "zero" clearance.  Turn (open) it 2 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut.  What you are doing is depressing the hydraulic lifter to about halfway into its "operating" range.  This will allow for expansion (hot) and contraction (cold) of clearances.  You will need to do this 2 1/2 turn adjustment with wrenches and be sure to mark the pushrod so you know when you have completed one complete turn (don't recall but it will be 6 or 8 flats).

Don't remember about the lifter orientation.

Chris   

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

If your still having a issue with that, give us a call and we'll walk you thru it.
No problem.
Scott

[SID8D2]

Adjust the pushrod by hand until zero clearance.  This means no up and down movement of the pushrod - by hand.  Make sure it is seated on/in the lifter and at the top into the rocker arm.  It takes a little practice doing this - as you expand the pushrod, you can get it to move up and down.  The more it expands, the less it will move until it is a "zero" clearance.  Turn (open) it 2 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut.  What you are doing is depressing the hydraulic lifter to about halfway into its "operating" range.  This will allow for expansion (hot) and contraction (cold) of clearances.  You will need to do this 2 1/2 turn adjustment with wrenches and be sure to mark the pushrod so you know when you have completed one complete turn (don't recall but it will be 6 or 8 flats).

Don't remember about the lifter orientation.

Chris   

Currently I am working on the front cylinder and have not assembled the rockers to the rear cylinder. It feels as tho the lifters are solid and won't compress? I also notice that the lifter end of the SE adj push rod measures .312 whereas the stock solid push rods measure .375. I just don't want to bend or break anything. The lifters also have been out of the bike for about a month so I doubt oil pressure/bleed down is an issue.

I also have not turned the motor over by hand yet for fear of something not being adjusted right.
   Thanks Sid
PS. the motor is a 09 110

[HD Street Performance]

Adjust the pushrod by hand until zero clearance.  This means no up and down movement of the pushrod - by hand.  Make sure it is seated on/in the lifter and at the top into the rocker arm.  It takes a little practice doing this - as you expand the pushrod, you can get it to move up and down.  The more it expands, the less it will move until it is a "zero" clearance.  Turn (open) it 2 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut.  What you are doing is depressing the hydraulic lifter to about halfway into its "operating" range.  This will allow for expansion (hot) and contraction (cold) of clearances.  You will need to do this 2 1/2 turn adjustment with wrenches and be sure to mark the pushrod so you know when you have completed one complete turn (don't recall but it will be 6 or 8 flats).

This is OK but two more things to remember

1. Be 100% sure you are on TDC compression cycle. With the cam cover off this is marks lined up for the rear cylinder, top gear at ~1:00 for front

2. After setting the 2 1/2 turns preload don't worry about the valves opening, yes they do, but after the lifter equalizes (the valve spring pressure from the top overcomes the plunger oil cushion and they bleed off) they are back seated. Whatever you do don't turn the motor over until you can turn both pushrods with your fingers. This is your sign the plunger in the lifter has centered and the valves are back seated.

Orient the holes however you like, it is an annular channel and oil gets to the lifter from all directions.

Side note
Be sure to center the lower rocker boxes and check for retainer to box clearance. This is a 110" issue for sure and many stockers have valvetrain noise because this is not properly set up. After centering the box measure the retainer to box clearance and grind the lower box if need be. There was a running change that fixed this not sure where that occured. You can center the boxes with 1/4" X 20 screws in the center breather holes and copper pipe compression ferrules on the screw or use EVO tapet alignment screws. After you get through that center the rocker supports the same way.

[sadunbar]

Adjust the pushrod by hand until zero clearance.  This means no up and down movement of the pushrod - by hand.  Make sure it is seated on/in the lifter and at the top into the rocker arm.  It takes a little practice doing this - as you expand the pushrod, you can get it to move up and down.  The more it expands, the less it will move until it is a "zero" clearance.  Turn (open) it 2 1/2 turns and tighten the lock nut.  What you are doing is depressing the hydraulic lifter to about halfway into its "operating" range.  This will allow for expansion (hot) and contraction (cold) of clearances.  You will need to do this 2 1/2 turn adjustment with wrenches and be sure to mark the pushrod so you know when you have completed one complete turn (don't recall but it will be 6 or 8 flats).

This is OK but two more things to remember

1. Be 100% sure you are on TDC compression cycle. With the cam cover off this is marks lined up for the rear cylinder, top gear at ~1:00 for front

2. After setting the 2 1/2 turns preload don't worry about the valves opening, yes they do, but after the lifter equalizes (the valve spring pressure from the top overcomes the plunger oil cushion and they bleed off) they are back seated. Whatever you do don't turn the motor over until you can turn both pushrods with your fingers. This is your sign the plunger in the lifter has centered and the valves are back seated.

Orient the holes however you like, it is an annular channel and oil gets to the lifter from all directions.

Side note
Be sure to center the lower rocker boxes and check for retainer to box clearance. This is a 110" issue for sure and many stockers have valvetrain noise because this is not properly set up. After centering the box measure the retainer to box clearance and grind the lower box if need be. There was a running change that fixed this not sure where that occured. You can center the boxes with 1/4" X 20 screws in the center breather holes and copper pipe compression ferrules on the screw or use EVO tapet alignment screws. After you get through that center the rocker supports the same way.

(highlighted in red above)

This part is important...     As long as the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke....and you can turn the pushrod with your fingers after bleed down (10 minutes or so)...you will not do any damage.  If after bleed down  - the pushrod is either to tight to turn with your fingers or if after bleed down the pushrod turns excessively easy - start over.  Getting the feel of the"zero clearance" starting point can take a couple of tries.  But the sign that you have it right is being able to turn the pushrod with your fingers - with some drag on the pushrod - after bleed down.

If you are running stock lifters, the lifter plungers have .200 travel.  Lengthening the pushrod 2 1/2 turns compresses the plunger into the lifter approximently .100 - placing the plunger in the center of the travel.   This is what you are trying to accomplish.

[SID8D2]

OK, Things seem a little better now than they did at 2am last nt. 

 Thanks guys for the input, 2 1/2 turns more and lock nuts locked, Bleed down must have happend cause I can now spin the push rods with my fingers. Turned the motor over by hand and seems to do what its supposed to. Now for the rear cyl. I may have to wait till I can pick up a 1/4" drive tork wrench for the rocker box rear left screw and according to the shop manual a special Snap-On tool for the rocker support screw. Unless you guys know something I don't.

    Guess I will watch a little NACAR and March Madness till I can purchase the tools.

       

[SID8D2]

Thanks guys for all the input, I pulled Spooky out of the basement today and cycled her a few times without the plugs installed, put the plugs in and hit the switch and she came to life
Drover her around the house and parked her in the garage.
Now for the TTS Tune.