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[Twolanerider]

Had originally posted this in the Ultra section because it's been getting more traffic lately and because most of us seem to cross pollinate between the SEEG and SEUC sections.  Was suggested to me, however, that being a good little moderator I should ask the question in this section too; since "this is where it belongs."  So, to my newbie and newly offended Ultra riding friend; here goes  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]  :

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After having added the HawgWired amplifier system and picking up a Gerbing gloves and jacket liner recently; on top of the heated seat and a few extra lights I started to do the charging system mathematics.  Trouble is I've found contradictory spec's for the stock output on the SEEG.
 
Can anyone supply known to be good specs for the charging system output on an 05 SEEG?  Going to be putting on a chrome inner primary sometime sooner rather than later.  Would prefer to jack up the charging system while I'm in there if need be.  I'll choose to trust the considered opinions here before weighing between contradictory published spec's any day of the week.

[JCZ]

I have posted this information (straight from a contact at HD) last year, in one of these forums.  You can do a search......it was in regards to Gerbing heated clothes, also.

[Twolanerider]

I have posted this information (straight from a contact at HD) last year, in one of these forums.

[Twolanerider]

Found it JC.  Searched by "charging system gerbing" and had to extend the search to over a year.  Found it in a post of yours from last November.  It's very helpful.  For anyone considering heated clothes, seats, and other accessories take a look at JC's information (copied below).  Using these numbers I should have a little bit more headroom than I currently seem to.  I'll need to isolate the clothes from the seat from the amplifier and see what each is pulling at full load.

Here's JC's post from November 2004:
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Asked some questions reagarding electrical clothing.  These are "unofficial" response since Gerbing is aftermarket, but thought some of you might be curious.  
  
  
Subject: 04 SEEG Electric  
  
    
Hi JC,  
  
In looking online at our heated offerings it looks like we have heated vests, jackets, gloves, and pant liners.  I can't get the link to work, but if you go the General Merchandise section and type "heated" in the search area you should get all items - but no socks or seats.  
  
I made some calls for some "unofficial" perspectives on your planned electric clothing impacts.  Below is what I received from a good source:  
  
======================================================================== ==========================================================  
  
Here is my opinion  
                                          @13.5 volts  
    jacket liner     77 watts               5.7 amps  
    pants liner      44 watts               3.3 amps  
    gloves           22 watts x2            3.3 amps  
    sox              22 watts x2            3.3 amps  
    seat draws                              3.5 amps  
  
Total current @ 13.5 volts = 19 amps  
  
EFI charging system can handle 45 amps over 2500 rpm and 25 amps at idle  
  
Normal current load ~25 amps  
  
P&A plus Normal (19+25) = 44 amps  
  
Conclusion:  
Will draw 19 amps off the battery at idle  
Will be better at over 2500 rpm, but will not have enough current left to charge his battery.  
Definitely on the edge depending on his drive cycle.  Is possible, but I would recommend the trickle charger every night to be safe.  
  
======================================================================== =============================================================  
  
So, it looks like you could maybe use everything while going down the road (i.e. over 2500rpm).  Running everything at less than that though, will start taking a draw off your battery.  Just be aware of this because the only thing worse than being really cold while riding is being really cold stuck on the side of the road with a dead battery.  IMHO.  
  
As for the SE clothing items, I'll note your issues/complaints.  This is all handled by a licensee though, so I don't have much influence or awareness there.  Rest assured though, I'll make sure your comments are known and try to get some catalogs - although I've not seen one.  
  
Ride Free!  
 
That should shed some light.  Another thing to think about......from what I've read, you will rarely have your thermostat turned all the way up, for any length of time.....especially both of you at the same time.  So, taking that into consideration, you should be drawing less than the max. amps.
 
I bought everything times two, also.  And when I actually use it, I'll keep an eye on my volt meeter.  Maybe it will be a situation where we take turns or use just the bottom half or just the top half, at a time.  It will be close, so I think as long as you pay attention to the volt meter, you should be alright.
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[JCZ]

Thanks Don.  Wasn't trying to pass it off on you......my dinner was waiting when I posted that.  Just came back to find it for you and you already found it.

I was running two Gerbing jackets, and two pair of gloves, along with all my blue LED lights and my stereo and it never seemed to be a problem.  However, I do plug my Battery Tender in almost every night, too.

[Twolanerider]

With the loads you were showing I really should have a bit more headroom than I currently seem to JC.  That's the part that has me a bit puzzled.  Your jacket and glove specs are the same as what I got from Gerbing; and I'm only runnign the one set. The seat and the amp are supposed to be, respectively, each roughly what the pants liner would draw.  Aside from that I've only got the LEDs in the three spoilers and the pair of saddlebag latches for extra lighting.  So minimal draw there.  With the spec's provided I should have plenty of overhead remaining.  But with everything on and pushed to max and the engine at about 3k I'm bouncing back and forth between 13.2 and 13.6 volts at the battery.  Occasionally dropping even a bit lower.  

I need to isolate the individual components and see if one is pulling heavier than spec or, alternatively, if perhaps I've just got a regulator not quite up to snuff.

[JCZ]

Don, you remember that we determined (and I verified via the same contact) that the volt meters are not that accurate, either.

Having said that, I think as long as you're at 13.5 you are fine and it's charging.  You'll know if when you shut your bike off and then go to restart it and the starter just doesn't turn as fast as it usually does.

I forgot, on mine, I also have the tour pack and saddle bag LED lights, too, that are all set on "running" as well as turn  signal and brake lights.

[Twolanerider]

Don, you remember that we determined (and I verified via the same contact) that the volt meters are not that accurate, either.

Having said that, I think as long as you're at 13.5 you are fine and it's charging.

[tony1968]

The gloves are 22 watts per pair, and the jacket liner is 77 this is at full load. If you have a controller, then it is less unless you have it cranked, its 20 degrees and your burning your skin.

POWER MEASURED IN WATTS (P) = CURRENT MEASURED IN AMPS (I) X VOLTAGE MEASURED IN VOLTS (E)

OR  P = I X E             576watts= 45a x 12.8v  

12.8v is battery voltage. 14.3-14.7 is operating voltage @ 3600 rpm with the 45a rotor.

but...

The output is rated at 45 amps so even thou you have 13.5v output you still only have 576 watts out,  not 607.5 (45ax13.5v) 45 amps is 45 amps.

Just like in your house, your 20 amp breaker is gonna trip @ 20 amps regardless if the voltage is 110v or 120.

So at 12.8 volts you should have 576 watts available minus operating "expenses"  FI, lights, ignition etc...  

Your voltmeter should almost be always 13.5 or better  when you are using your heated gear. Your "alternator" (the rotor, stator and voltage regualtor) sense the load and switch from "float" to "charge" . Mine reads "14" volts with my gear on. (gerbing g3 gloves and jacket liner)  

To get more amperage out of an alternator you can either add poles to the rotor or windings to the stator. So you have a 38a rotor and a 45a rotor.  All the injected bikes should have come stock with the 45a rotor.

 

[Twolanerider]

Tony, just a little bit ago I found why mine was behaving so erratically.  Without regard to what it should be producing and what the draws should have been the numbers I was seeing weren't adding up; or consistent.  Turned out I had a leaker.

Crushed lead that was part of the circuit to the heater in the heated seat.  Not bad enough to short to the frame and blow a fuse.  Just bad enough to be bad.  Found it.  Fixed it.  Permanently moved it.  Everything works flawlessly now and as you would expect by the numbers.

[JCZ]

My meter (going down the road) stays consistent, also......regardless of what I have on (everything) or when I turn off all that I can (heated clothes, LEDs, stereo, auxillary lights, etc.).

Don, I think you'll find that yours will do the same, now.

[Twolanerider]

My meter (going down the road) stays consistent, also......regardless of what I have on (everything) or when I turn off all that I can (heated clothes, LEDs, stereo, auxillary lights, etc.).

Don, I think you'll find that yours will do the same, now.

Yeap, it's definitely sitting a bit more still now JC.  What you'd expect for a voltmeter in this application.  If we had an amp gauge instead we'd see different types of activity.  But I wouldn't want an amp gauge wired up in the fairing.

[BLM777]

Don...might be a good idea to post this info on the SEUC thread also for the enlightenment of those owners.

[Twolanerider]

Don...might be a good idea to post this info on the SEUC thread also for the enlightenment of those owners.

Nope, screw 'em !     [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif] [smiley=banana.gif] [smiley=jalapeno.gif] [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]

[JCZ]

Don...might be a good idea to post this info on the SEUC thread also for the enlightenment of those owners.

Now that was damn funny! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]