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[RayG]

Got to say that I'm really disappointed with the overall fitments and thought that went into the 513 bars for the FBW set up.  To those that have used them in the past, they may have change their product.  First off I will have to cut close to a 1/4" off the left side so it will mount flush and not leave a gap.  My main problem is that they compressed the 1 1/4" bars to 1" at the point where they are bolted to the risers, so you have to purchase the 506 kit to make the OD of the bars fit the original risers.  The problem with that is once you tighten the bars, the 506 knurled adapters stay stuck to the risers.  This could create a short circuit if you adjust your bars after the original tightening to the risers. What happens is the knurled adapters stay in place while the bars rotate affecting the size of the hole for the internal wiring.  I'm not explaining this as well as a photo would but I'm not taking it apart again.

In order to avoid the adapter chocking the wires, in case I have to make fine adjustments, I plan to epoxy the adapters to the bars and use two small radiator clamp as close to the riser as possible.  This may not be a problem in other models but the SERK has a different console and the potential for a disaster is real.

I had planned to follow the advice offered on a previous post to use the Heat Deamons but they will not fit without machining them to the proper internal opening.  I also wanted the air cushion Avon soft grips but hey do not fit the FBW set up either.  

Thanks for the photos JW, they were very helpful, the size and shape appear to be perfect.  I have not been able to take the bike out yet as I found damaged needle bearings in the clutch hub while I was installing the 30T kit.  The hub is back ordered and not due in for another week.  At least I found out where all that metal was coming from, on my magnet to the primary.

I'll keep you posted with the modification.

Thanks

Ray G.      

[Twolanerider]

Got to say that I'm really disappointed with the overall fitments and thought that went into the 513 bars for the FBW set up.  To those that have used them in the past, they may have change their product.  First off I will have to cut close to a 1/4" off the left side so it will mount flush and not leave a gap.  My main problem is that they compressed the 1 1/4" bars to 1" at the point where they are bolted to the risers, so you have to purchase the 506 kit to make the OD of the bars fit the original risers.  The problem with that is once you tighten the bars, the 506 knurled adapters stay stuck to the risers.  This could create a short circuit if you adjust your bars after the original tightening to the risers. What happens is the knurled adapters stay in place while the bars rotate affecting the size of the hole for the internal wiring.  I'm not explaining this as well as a photo would but I'm not taking it apart again.

In order to avoid the adapter chocking the wires, in case I have to make fine adjustments, I plan to epoxy the adapters to the bars and use two small radiator clamp as close to the riser as possible.  This may not be a problem in other models but the SERK has a different console and the potential for a disaster is real.

I had planned to follow the advice offered on a previous post to use the Heat Deamons but they will not fit without machining them to the proper internal opening.  I also wanted the air cushion Avon soft grips but hey do not fit the FBW set up either.  

Thanks for the photos JW, they were very helpful, the size and shape appear to be perfect.  I have not been able to take the bike out yet as I found damaged needle bearings in the clutch hub while I was installing the 30T kit.  The hub is back ordered and not due in for another week.  At least I found out where all that metal was coming from, on my magnet to the primary.

I'll keep you posted with the modification.

Thanks

Ray G.      

The couple of times I put handlebars on an 07 or 08 SERK I didn't use those knurled adapters they offer.  Just the idea of messing with them turned me off.  A much easier (and seemed to me better and safer) alternative was just to use standard old normal 1" risers like almost every other Harley in the world uses.  Solves all the problems you dealt with, no separate loose parts and direct clamping on the bars.

[RayG]

Thanks for the advice,  since I already had all the wires pulled through and working I did not want to take the chance of cutting it off with the wires in it or starting all over.  I thoroughly cleaned the bars and adapters with Acetone and put some industrial epoxy that I used to used when I made custom recurves & longbows for a living.  I also use two small radiator clamps and made sure they did not come anywhere close to the wires.  I was a little nervous that night, if I used to much epoxy it would have complicated things.  Thankfully it worked out well and I can adjust the bars to fit anytime I need to.  I also took some rubber electrical insulation tape and pressed some in between the wires and knurled adapter just in case.  Next time I will change the risers as you suggested for piece of mind.  I just hate purchasing items that are supposed to solve problems only to create additional ones.

Did you receive the shock adjusting tool I sent you?

I'm going crazy waiting for a back ordered clutch hub, just starting to have a few nice days to ride and I'm stuck waitng for parts.  It seems that HD refused to work on my bike even though the amount of metal coming from the primary was far beyond there that's normal saying along with other issues I was having that easily should have had them take a look and make the repairs.  After I took the primary and inner primary apart I found the stripped needle bearings. Of course since I took it off the bike it is not covered under my warranty. I had little faith for any dealership near me to fix it right so I gladly did the work my self.  For having over 40K in mileage everything looked pretty good.  I also removed the Cam chain and had .005 run out, I don't know for sure but that seems to be pretty decent considering it was at the far end.  I Have no idea what that would translate to if I took everything apart to do a measurement closer to the crannk.

As usual thanks for the reply.

Ray G.    

[Twolanerider]

Did you receive the shock adjusting tool I sent you?

I also removed the Cam chain and had .005 run out, I don't know for sure but that seems to be pretty decent considering it was at the far end.  I Have no idea what that would translate to if I took everything apart to do a measurement closer to the crannk.
    

Did get the little adjusting tool.  My apologies.  Meant to let you know and just forgot after a day or two. 

.005" is plenty.  Too much to consider gear driven cams.  But something that could be absorbed by the chain tensioner setup.