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[OTIS]

Why not just take the small alan head drain on the bottom of the engine block out plus the oil pan drain plug and drain 4 qts and put 4 qts back thats what I do.

                              OTIS  

[DCFIREMANN]

Why not just take the small alan head drain on the bottom of the engine block out plus the oil pan drain plug and drain 4 qts and put 4 qts back thats what I do.

                              OTIS  

OTIS you are a lot smarter than youl look!!!!! Thats is why we like you so much!!!!!


Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

Mike, I, um... well.... didn't read the article either.  So being equally uneducated I had it in my head that I'd pull spark plugs and just let it spin on the starter.

I didn't even think of that. It shouldn't take too long to clear out the bad oil either. I don't think running without oil for 20 to 30 seconds would hurt. But it might over the long run.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[DCFIREMANN]

Why not just take the small alan head drain on the bottom of the engine block out plus the oil pan drain plug and drain 4 qts and put 4 qts back thats what I do.

                              OTIS  

Otis one thing I just thought of. The guys at Zippers also talked to me about dropping the oil pan when you find trash in your filter or you lose an oil pump to trash. I don't think that wouldn't be a bad idea for a winter service when you are not riding. When you do your complete oil drains for winter drop the pan and clean it.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Twolanerider]

I didn't even think of that. It shouldn't take too long to clear out the bad oil either. I don't think running without oil for 20 to 30 seconds would hurt. But it might over the long run.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Unloaded without compression with the oil film still in place? Nah, that won't hurt a thing.  At least not for the amount of time it'd take to clear it out.  Otis's idea is simpler and more direct though.  I knew he wasn't just another pretty face.

[Twolanerider]

Otis one thing I just thought of. The guys at Zippers also talked to me about dropping the oil pan when you find trash in your filter or you lose an oil pump to trash. I don't think that wouldn't be a bad idea for a winter service when you are not riding. When you do your complete oil drains for winter drop the pan and clean it.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Mike, it'd be easy enough to do.  But man that seems like a lot of effort for an "oil change."  This is going from a one beer job to a an actual task real quick.  If I found trash in the filter; well probably.  But as part of an annual service routine?  Man, I'm just not that dedicated.

[OTIS]

Otis one thing I just thought of. The guys at Zippers also talked to me about dropping the oil pan when you find trash in your filter or you lose an oil pump to trash. I don't think that wouldn't be a bad idea for a winter service when you are not riding. When you do your complete oil drains for winter drop the pan and clean it.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Dawg when I change my oil I take spray brake cleaner to the dipstick hole and spray about half of it and it runs out like A water hose cleans the pan pretty good.

                            OTIS

[grc]

There really shouldn't be a full quart of oil in the sump - if there is your oil pump isn't scavenging properly, or you're not letting it idle for a couple minutes before shutting the engine down.  However, for those of us with the low mount oil cooler, how does this little invention affect that?  It's my contention that most of the "undrained" oil on our bikes is sitting in that cooler, since it won't drain uphill.  Running the engine for 20 seconds with this gizmo attached is not going to flush the cooler (thermostat closed).  I suppose we could pull the hoses and pump some fresh fluid through the cooler.  Of course, if you do the C.O.R.S. or Scavenger, then flush the cooler, you're talking spending way too much time on a simple fluid change.  I think Twolane had it right the first time - much too anal.  Might be worth looking at if you plan to go for the world record between rebuilds, otherwise I've got better things to do.  JMHO

Jerry

[grc]

I didn't even think of that. It shouldn't take too long to clear out the bad oil either. I don't think running without oil for 20 to 30 seconds would hurt. But it might over the long run.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

The oil on the older Harley's went to the engine first, then to the filter on its way back to the oil tank.  With that setup, you would still be getting oil to your bearings, etc.  Unfortunately, at least in this instance, the Twin Cam changed the oil routing so that now the oil goes to the filter first (duh!), so using one of these systems would in fact leave you with no oil flowing to the vital parts of the engine.  Having said that, I still wouldn't worry too much on a roller bearing engine if I didn't have oil pressure at idle for 10 to 20 seconds.  Hell, the pre-TC Harley's seldom had any oil pressure at hot idle anyway.  Now, if you want to talk plain bearing engines where the rotating parts ride on a thin film of oil and not directly on the bearing, that's a whole different kettle of fish.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

much too anal.  

Amen Jerry.  Realized this afternoon that I was actually spending some real amount of time thinking about how to do an oil change.  Way too anal.  Screw it.  I'm taking out that funny looking plug.  Letting the yucky stuff drain out til my beer is empty.  Putting the plug back in (the oil pan, not the beer).  Adding new oil.  And riding the bike another several thousand miles.  Then I'll repeat the process all over again.