Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Author Topic: Front fork oil change-"How to"  (Read 2564 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Boatman

  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4816
  • FLHRSEI.ORG

    • CVO1: 2014 CVO Limited
    • CVO2: 2010 SEUC-accident victim-gone
    • CVO3: 2005 SEEG-traded on 2010
Front fork oil change-"How to"
« on: July 10, 2006, 03:19:13 PM »

I installed the HD polyurethane handlebar risor bushings yesterday and decided to change the front fork oil at the same time (10,000 miles).  This procedure only applies to 04 and 05 SEEG's, RoadKings, and the other bagger's RH fork only-the LH side is a cartridge fork and requires partial disassembly.  The only non std tool required is a 1 3/8" 12 pt box end wrench to remove the top of fork fill cap-there is not enough room to get a socket between the handlebar and shock plug.
 
1) Cover everything painted.
2) Remove ignition switch knob-turn knob to acc, cut forks to right, depress tang at bottom of knob, turn and depress key to the  left position and then an additional 60 degrees and the knob will come out.
3) Remove ignition switch nut, spacer, and washer.
4) Remove 2 screws in sides of lower dash panel, carefully lift out and remove dash panel.  (Unhook wire plug to dash panel for toggle switches (on RH side)  ).
5)Loosen front fork fill caps with 1 3/8" wrench while bike is on the ground.
6)Lift front wheel off ground
7)remove fill caps and lower fork drain screws and drain oil (comes out rapidly).  Lower drain plugs require a large phillips screwdriver for best results.
8)I measured what I took out of each fork-9 ounces each side.
9)To put in oil I used a small 3" funnel and about 12" of 3/8" gas hose attached to the funnel and the hose fit the fill neck nicely.  I put in 10.6 ounces on each side per the SE supplemental service manual.
I purchased both Type E and the SE fork oil.  The oil I drained out was red.  The Type E fork oil is red and the SE oil is the same color of motor oil.  Since I was putting more back in then I got out, i put in the Type E oil.  (Oil fill is also fast).
10)  Reinstall the lower inner fairing cap and switch knob.

It is best to have a service manual handy.  This is what worked for me.  I figured it might help someone so I did this before forgetting.  To replace the handlebar risor bushings, all you have to do additional is to remove the ignition switch and let hang off to the side as the plug for it is under the radio and requires removal of the outer fairing.  If you are changing your handlebars, you don't have to remove the radio.  Do all of the above, unhook cables/brake hoses, remove lower risor bolts, pull risors and handlebars out as an assembly, then remove upper clamp bolts to replace bars.  I spent more time looking for dropped/lost items than doing the work.  Haven't rode enough since doing to cooment on the fork oil  or urethane bushing change.  Also, if you want to wire your driving lights to be on with the high beams, now is an easy time to run a new source of power to the driving light switch as it is now easily serviceable.  Hope this helps.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2006, 03:25:42 PM by Boatman »
Logged

erniezap

  • Global Moderator
  • 2.5K CVO Member
  • *****
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 4900

    • CVO1: 2012 SEUC - Black/Orange
Re: Front fork oil change-"How to"
« Reply #1 on: July 10, 2006, 06:29:18 PM »

Jim (HD-Dude) changed mine last week during the 20K service after Cripple Creek.  Pulled the tubes off of the bike.  It's a lot easier and you can compress them a few times to ensure complete drainage.  I also used an aftermarket 15 weight oil.  Between that the the Progressives in the rear, the bike rides and handles great with no more front end float.  Bike feels like a BMW instead of a Buick now...
Logged
2012 Black/Orange SEUC
 

Page created in 0.248 seconds with 25 queries.