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[funseeker57]

    I have an 06 FLHTCUSE.  Recently I have been having some strange things happen when I turn the ignition on.  Sometimes the check engine light doesn't come on at all.  Usually it comes on for a short time and then goes out.  During this unusual time the red light on the dash comes on and goes out like normal.  When this occurs I don't hear the fuel pump run for its short time, nor will the starter engage.
   I turn the ignition off and on a few times and eventually things will work normally.  I have a couple of clues that might be helpful.  In the winter when I am running all of my heated gear and electrics I will occasionally get P0562 error code.  This makes sense to me since at a stop light idling the voltage can dip below 12 volts.  I am now getting another error code.  Under the TSM/TSSM area I am getting error code 1097. 
   Next clue.  I have recently replaced my stock tail light with an led unit from brightasslights.com.  I don't know if any of these things is related.  I am a little worried that I am going to get stranded sometime and be unable to start the bike.
   Anybody have any ideas what may be happening?

[funseeker57]

Wow.  I really stumped you guys.

[dayne66]

I don't think it's likely...but....put on the stock rear light, and if the problem persists, you at least have eliminated it as a possible cause.

[SteveO]

The Bad Ass LED light draws almost no power compared to the stock light.  Sounds like you need a new battery, make sure all your heated gear, grips and seat are off when you attempt to start the bike.  You may be overloading the bike electrical system at idle with all the heated gear.  Sometimes you have to turn off a couple of items in stop and go traffic, alternator cant keep up, especially with a low charged, or weak battery.

[dayne66]

I was thinking the light may be causing an ECU gremlin as opposed to a high amperage issue.

[Jerry/MD]

The Bad Ass LED light draws almost no power compared to the stock light.  Sounds like you need a new battery, make sure all your heated gear, grips and seat are off when you attempt to start the bike.  You may be overloading the bike electrical system at idle with all the heated gear.  Sometimes you have to turn off a couple of items in stop and go traffic, alternator cant keep up, especially with a low charged, or weak battery.

X2. How old is your battery? If you have access to a voltmeter it would be nice to monitor voltage when you turn on your heated gear. It sounds like your electrical system is being 'taxed' by some of the add-ons.

[Midnight Rider]

Since the tailight is "plug and play", I would assume that the light has a built in load equalizer, so that should not be an issue.  Even if it does not have a load equalizer, it wouldn't cause issues like a non-start.  If anything, the bike's system would "see" the tailight as a burned out bulb since it draws a lot less current than a regular bulb.

I would make sure you have a good battery, especially if it is the original and has not been continuously maintained on a Battery Tender when parked at home.  5 years on a battery is pretty good service, IMO.  Low voltage can cause all sorts of electronic gremlins to show themselves.

A fully charged battery, with no load connected to it, should show a minimum of 12.6 volts...anything less is partially discharged.  Disconnect all the wires going to the battery terminals and measure with a digital voltmeter.  If less than 12.6, hook a battery tender up and charge overnight and measure again to see if the battery will take a 100% charge.  If not, get a new battery.  Also, be mindful of the fact that the '06 model year had some bad batches of voltage regulators installed...mine had to be replaced, but it was during the warranty period.  You have a 50 Amp alternator in the '06, so it should be fairly easy to add up the total amps pulled by whatever you've added, plus the needs of the bike with no additional add-ons, to calculate whether you are exceeding the output of the alternator.

If you get a new battery, install a SAE pigtail on the terminals and run the connector to a place under, and in front of, the battery box with a wire tie.  EVERY time you park the bike at home, hook up a battery tender...the bike pulls current from the battery, even when parked...not much, but some.

[mrmagloo]

Do you by chance run a Power Commander? There is a known issue on start up with those things, that forced me to develop unique start up procedure to avoid long started riddled with backfires.

[funseeker57]

   My battery is about 3 years old.  I replaced it when I thought it was bad the first time I saw the low batt error code caused by my heated gear.  As long as I keep the rpm up at a stop it doesn't cause me any problems now.  I do keep the bike on a battery tender at all times when its not in motion.  Also everything else is stock.  No stage 1 or power commander or pipes. 
   The error code 1097 says its Loss of Speedometer Serial Data EFI.  I'm wondering if that could be caused by a corroded connection somewhere in the electrical system.  The weather here has taken a turn for the worse and I am not experimenting with different things by riding.
   I think next I'll check all the fuses and make sure they are all clean.  The battery seems to be ok but I have a meter and I'll check it anyway.  I might try to investigate my manual on this loss of spedometer serial data efi.  Maybe a relay is not working properly.