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[FLHTCUSE7]

I decided on the V&H round Monsters & PowerDuals, will the fuelpak make a big difference or can I skip that step?

I guess from a warranty standpoint I am better of not doing it, but wonder if the performance with one is much better than stock?

This is for my CVO Ultra 2012 that I have not taken delivery of and if I will do the fual pak I plan on having the dealer do it before I pick the bike up.

Any info will be appreciated.

M

[ChiTracker]

I ran my 08 RG with Thunderheaders True dual, Stage one A/C. The bike ran but not great. I did the iED thing and they worked, then I switched to the Fuel Pak.
It was the best for the money addition. Everyone says because it does not adjust timing its not good, but I can tell you it is worth its weight.

and you can remove it and still run the bike if your taking it in to the shop. The other thing is you can run your bike down the road with all your additions and see how it is. then add the F/P with the right input, and you will see, hear, and feel the difference.

Good Luck

[glens]

The problem with using piggybacks is that what they're working against can change out from under them if you switch between running the bike with them and without them.

Maybe a little more clearly:

Say you put on different exhaust and airbox, along with a piggyback controller all at the same time.  Then for some reason you remove the piggyback controller and ride the bike.  What'll happen is the ECM will attempt to learn the new parts.  It won't do very well but it will make some headway.  Now when you put the piggyback back on, it's working against a different "tune" than it was before, so the changes it's making will no longer be correct (if they even were the first time).

Your best bet is to reprogram the ECM to its new breathing parts.  The closer you can keep the Adaptive Fueling in the center of its range everywhere, the better off you'll be.  Plus you won't have to intrude on the wiring harness and try to find a place to stash something that may introduce problems some time down the road because it quit working correctly and/or the connections became a little unsure.

You're only talking at most a few hundred dollars difference to take the most elegant route.  You'll forget that money before you know it when you ride a correctly-calibrated EFI.

[FLHTCUSE7]

Good point, I assume that you are refering to spending some time on a Dyno?

M

The problem with using piggybacks is that what they're working against can change out from under them if you switch between running the bike with them and without them.

Maybe a little more clearly:

Say you put on different exhaust and airbox, along with a piggyback controller all at the same time.  Then for some reason you remove the piggyback controller and ride the bike.  What'll happen is the ECM will attempt to learn the new parts.  It won't do very well but it will make some headway.  Now when you put the piggyback back on, it's working against a different "tune" than it was before, so the changes it's making will no longer be correct (if they even were the first time).

Your best bet is to reprogram the ECM to its new breathing parts.  The closer you can keep the Adaptive Fueling in the center of its range everywhere, the better off you'll be.  Plus you won't have to intrude on the wiring harness and try to find a place to stash something that may introduce problems some time down the road because it quit working correctly and/or the connections became a little unsure.

You're only talking at most a few hundred dollars difference to take the most elegant route.  You'll forget that money before you know it when you ride a correctly-calibrated EFI.

[grc]

Good point, I assume that you are refering to spending some time on a Dyno?

M

Not necessarily.  You can use something like the TTS product with a canned map and then tweak the tune yourself if you enjoy that sort of thing (V-Tune), or just run the canned map.  After all, what you will be doing with a FuelPak is just running a canned solution, but with much less capability built in.  If you're like most of us, eventually you will want something a lot better, and the money spent on the add-on box will be wasted anyway.  I suggest spending a little extra now and you will have a solution that will cover pretty much anything you might ever want to do to the bike in the future (short of top fuel racing, that is).  And of course you can also get it tuned on a dyno if you like.


Jerry

[russrudder]

I agree that the TTS is the way to go but I also think the fuel pak is worth the money. I bought and just installed a fuel pak with the big radius 2 into 1 on my 2010 SE Fatbob and it runs great. BUT if I would have done my home work before I bought the fuelpak I would have the TTS. I thought that with the V&H pipes I should go with V&H tuner and I got a great deal on it off ebay.  Anyway that's my two cents the fuelpak works good but the TTS has the capability to work better.

[sinktip]

I have the Fuel Pak and the power duals and monster rounds. It is "ok". I would much prefer the Zippers solution or even the Power Commander. I have run Power Commanders on all my bikes int eh past and have been pleased. The CVO came with the Fuel Pak and I have to get around to changing it.

[glens]

I'd bought an '07 road king new, put some mufflers on after the first week/1000 miles, and ran it that way for a while.  I wasn't exceedingly happy so I got a filter assembly and a PC-III with a canned map for the combo.  It ran so poorly it wouldn't hardly pull 90 mph.  Overly rich.  I did some studying and determined the problem was that my adaptive fuel values were getting in the way.  They'd been developed from running with just the mufflers on.  There were two ways I could see to get them reset.  One would be to visit the dealer and have them use their digital technician.  The other would be to re-install all the stock parts and ride comprehensively for a while.  I opted for the second method.  It worked well-enough.  When I put all the aftermarket stuff back on all at once, the canned map worked much better.

So I rode it like that for a summer or so.

I discussed my findings with the nationally-known shop from whom I'd got the air cleaner and PC-III/map, and suggested he reset the AFVs prior to developing the canned maps and to inform his customers to reset their AFVs prior to installing the stuff.  He said the adaptive fuel values wouldn't/shouldn't make that much difference but I can tell you first-hand they do.

But I still wasn't enthralled with the setup so ordered a TTS kit.  Just the canned starting map from/for the TTS was night and day better, and after v-tuning it a little it was great.  I've been a happy TTS user (2 more units/bikes) since then.

If you use any sort of piggyback controller and it disables closed-loop operation in any way, shape, or form, do not ever temporarily go back to closed-loop operation with any other parts that your ECM isn't calibrated for.  It will change the "tune" that the piggyback is working against.