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[SPEEDDY49]

Went for a ride last night with my gal cruising around 75 mph and air temp in the low sixties.  I noticed the oil pressure was around 15psi and almost zero at idle. I pulled up to a toll booth and no clutch pressure. It seems that the bike was running very hot.  I check the oil and one qt low. The last service was 650 miles ago. The only change to engine is a set of CFR slip-on muffler. I have been to Daytona since than with no problems. Anyone else with this?  No tune with the additional slip-ons, but I would think that it shouldn't run hot and use oil regardless. The bike only has 2500 miles on it.

[Midnight Rider]

First question: Are you sure the crankcase was topped off when the oil was changed during the last service?  Did the oil pressure increase after you added the quart? You should be running about 30+ PSI at 75mph and 10-12 PSI at idle.  I would not expect being down a quart to cause that kind of drop in pressure, so it is possible you have a bad sending unit.  Since the clutch line runs down right next to the catalytic converter, it gets mighty hot.  If there is any moisture/air in the line, you'll have issues with the clutch.  Probably just needs to be bled well...that would be my first thought.

If it's actually burning oil at that rate, there's something wrong.  "Normal" to me is maybe a quart between 5K changes.  Both CVO's I've had would use maybe 1/2 quart between changes, if that.  All these things would be dealer/warranty issues.

From all I've read, the CFR's sound good, but are hard to tune.  While the ECM should be able to compensate for slip ons, if you really want the bike to run "right", I'd consider getting it tuned.  Even a bone stock bike can benefit from a good tune with regards to day to day driving, as in better throttle response, etc.

If you really want to reduce the heat, get a header that eliminates the CAT, and get it tuned.

[grc]

Another possibility is something called "sumping".  That's when the oil pump doesn't return all the oil to the tank and the excess collects in the bottom of the crankcase.  It can cause overheating and power loss, and of course will show a low oil level on the dipstick because part of the oil isn't in the tank where it belongs.  It's easy for a dealer to check by removing the plug at the bottom of the crankcase (not the normal drain plug) and measuring the amount of oil that drains out.

Assuming riding at 75 mph and temps in the 60's, there is no valid reason why the engine should run hot enough to affect oil pressure as you described.  There is something wrong, and you need to get the dealer to check it out.  Hopefully you have one with a good shop that won't just blow you off.  Running only one quart low (in other words at the add mark) should not cause the symptoms you described.  Two quarts low would be a different story.

Jerry

[SPEEDDY49]

I've had 2 09 CVO's and have had to bleed my clutch because of moisture. Just seems weird with a bike that is 7 months old having moisture problems and with low oil pressure at the same time. The bike was hot for what ever reason and thats why the low pressure and clutch problem, but still confused about the oil useage and running hot. I did not check the oil after the dealer did the 1k service, should have I guess.  The oil pressure and clutch came back after it cooled down.

[SPEEDDY49]

Also the bike was only 1qt low. Added and brought up to full. Thanks

[Midnight Rider]

One thing I've learned, and others here will attest to this:  NEVER 100% trust what a HD dealer does, regardless.  When you pick up the bike, check it over, especially if they changed fluids.  It would not be the first time I have read about somebody picking their bike up a quart low, overfilled, scratched, something is loose...the list can go on.  There are some really good dealers out there, but they seem to be the exception to the rule, and there are some really good techs out there too, but again, the exception.  The "techs" that do oil changes are rarely their best people...it's kind of like taking your car to one of those quicky oil change places where they strip the oil pan bolt, don't tighten the filter, etc. 

It would be interesting to know what your oil temp was, but it's water under the bridge now.  Even if you don't put an in the dash gauge, you might consider a dipstick temp gauge.  I have had good luck with the HD LED version, but others have had trouble with them.  The other benefit, IMO, to the LED version is you can quickly get a reading of oil level when you stop for gas, etc.  Not saying that it will be dead on accurate, but mine have always been really, really close. Other folks think they are junk.  There is an analog gauge out there too, but I cannot think of the brand/company that makes it.  110Thunder has one.  Not to be constantly monitoring the oil temp, but just for spot checking when you get in unusual situations and just "want to know".  It's not something to fret about...the 110's run HOT, regardless.  Synthetic oil can take temps well beyond what Dino oil can take before degrading.  The dash gauges on a Harley are not the most accurate things in the world, just general indicators of what's happening.  But 15psi at 75mph is unusual, and NO pressure at idle on a modern engine would concern me a bit.  The old motors often showed no pressure at idle, but the newer versions of the twin cam (since '06 or so) generally show 8-12 on the gauge.  If a gauge is suspect, the only way to know is put a reliable gauge in the line and check it against that.