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[LETS_ROLL]

I know the correct way to fix this is, to intall a oil temp gage, but untill that time I would like to see if I can fix it.  If it's there it might as well work like is supposed to

The problem is when I turn the power switch on, the air temp gage pegs out.  It never read quite right anyways, but now is just pegged.  I know that there is probably a short, but how can I test the gage just in case is the gage.  Any input or ideas on what I can do or what's wrong would be great.  As always thatnks.  Let's Roll

[justgary]

If anyone knows the answer to this one please let us know.  My air temp gauge says 80deg no matter what the temp is.  

[Twolanerider]

If anyone knows the answer to this one please let us know.  My air temp gauge says 80deg no matter what the temp is.  

That would make it accurate more often than any of the others in which the needle still moves.

[ccr]

My air temp gage seems to mostly only be able to move between the 10 and 2 positions - until we get in the 90+ then it looks like it is as far to the right as it can get and tappin to move further.  It is just a rough guide at best.  

[3hawgs]

The gauge is worthless. I am getting ready to replace mine with the oil temp gauge. Mine reads 90 at any temp between 70 and 85. Above 90 the gauge reads in the 100-110 range. If yours is pegged out it must have a short to ground somewhere.

John

04 SEEG
04 AIH Slammer
02 Deuce
01 Lowrider

[grc]

I know the correct way to fix this is, to intall a oil temp gage, but untill that time I would like to see if I can fix it.  If it's there it might as well work like is supposed to

The problem is when I turn the power switch on, the air temp gage pegs out.  It never read quite right anyways, but now is just pegged.  I know that there is probably a short, but how can I test the gage just in case is the gage.  Any input or ideas on what I can do or what's wrong would be great.  As always thatnks.  Let's Roll

LETS_ROLL,

Definitely a short to ground somewhere.  First I would remove the outer fairing and do a visual inspection of the wiring, especially from the gauge to the sensor.  If yours is like mine, the wires were pulled as tight as a bow string, and could be cut and shorted on one of the metal brackets.  I slit the harness wrap and pulled out an extra inch of slack on mine when I first noticed this.  If there are no obvious wiring issues, remove the sensor and check the BE/V wire from the "S" terminal on the back of the gauge to the sensor connector with an ohm meter (zero resistance) to verify no short to ground in the harness.  If everything is good so far,  test the sensor with an ohmmeter.  At a temp between 65° and 85° the sensor should read between 43[ch8486] and 31[ch8486].  If you get a significantly lower reading, that will cause a high gauge reading.  If the sensor checks out ok, then get a resistor (Radio Shack), any value between 30[ch8486] and 50[ch8486] should work fine, and connect it between the "S" terminal on the back of the gauge and ground.  Turn on the ignition and your gauge should read somewhere in the 50°-85° range, depending on the resistor you use.  If the gauge still pegs high, the short would appear to be internal to the gauge.

BTW - you can make these gauges much more accurate (within about 4° anyway) by moving the sensor from inside the fairing.  I spliced some additional wire into the sensor circuit on mine and attached the sensor to the bottom of the lower fork bracket (actually, to the chrome air deflector I added under the lower fork bracket).  No longer does the temp just continue to rise as you ride due to heat buildup in the fairing.

Jerry

[LETS_ROLL]

Jerry thanks for the info.  That's pretty much what I wanted.  Just something to check. Now if I trace the be/v wire it will lead me to the sensor.  I hope so cause cause got no idea were it is or what it looks like.  Thanks again.  Let's Roll