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[North Georgia Hawg]

Thanks! Looked at the CR 575s... the earlier valve timing and lower intake duration might help me with the 2-1 pipe flow, and I like the .575 intake lift. The valves open and close earlier than the 54Hs - which I would think would be good  for my setup, and the 230 intake duration would seem to move the torque band down a bit, which would be nice. The 54Hs come in later than I would like.

Wondering how these cams would run with a 2-1 pipe like my S/C/S-4...

[Hotrod50]

I'd like to retain the low end torque but increase the top end to around 5200. Willing to lose a little bottom end as there has to be a trade off but not too much. The 54H is probably plenty for me since it's a quiet cam but when I get serious about doing this change then I'll look at making a spread sheet to compare cams in my range.

Do you guys really run the rpm's up to 5200?  Where do you shift at during every day riding?  What rpm and gear should I be in at 70 mph on a 09 SERG?  Just wondering where I should keep my rpm's at.  It seems I never go above about 3200 rpm, and when I'm cruising on highway at 70 mph in 6th gear, I'm doing about 2700 rpm.  should I stay in 5th and turn more rpm?  I've got car removed, Fullsac 2" baffles, Andrews 54H cams, and Cometic .0030 head gasket with Fulsac tune and TTS Mastertune.  Where should I keep rpm's?

[Midnight Rider]

Anything 2200 or above is fine.  On totally flat roads, with hardly any throttle, 2K is OK, but if you get on the throttle from 2K without downshifting, I personally don't think it's good for the engine.

I would say that very, very few people use 5200 as a shift point when riding "normally", but if running it through the gears hard, 5200+ is not unusual.  For general riding, my shift points are usually between 3-4K.  But my bike has seen 5800K a few times in it's short lifespan.   

[HOGMIKE]

Do you guys really run the rpm's up to 5200?  Where do you shift at during every day riding?  What rpm and gear should I be in at 70 mph on a 09 SERG?  Just wondering where I should keep my rpm's at.  It seems I never go above about 3200 rpm, and when I'm cruising on highway at 70 mph in 6th gear, I'm doing about 2700 rpm.  should I stay in 5th and turn more rpm?  I've got car removed, Fullsac 2" baffles, Andrews 54H cams, and Cometic .0030 head gasket with Fulsac tune and TTS Mastertune.  Where should I keep rpm's?

2175-5450 RPM depending on load......up to 6200 when passing.
 

[North Georgia Hawg]

Do you guys really run the rpm's up to 5200?  Where do you shift at during every day riding?  What rpm and gear should I be in at 70 mph on a 09 SERG?  Just wondering where I should keep my rpm's at.  It seems I never go above about 3200 rpm, and when I'm cruising on highway at 70 mph in 6th gear, I'm doing about 2700 rpm.  should I stay in 5th and turn more rpm?  I've got car removed, Fullsac 2" baffles, Andrews 54H cams, and Cometic .0030 head gasket with Fulsac tune and TTS Mastertune.  Where should I keep rpm's?

I run the engine up to 5000 RPM when I'm accelerating really quickly or running someone - but not as a normal habit. With the 54H cams, the good torque doesn't happen until around 2700 anyway. In "normal" riding I will usually go to 3500 to 4000 before shifting - depending on how fast I can and want to accelerate. Normal cruising I keep it from 2000-2500, unless I'm going up one of our local hills - then it's 2500-3000. I don't watch the tach all the time tho... it more the feel of the engine and I shift when it feels right.

Since we finally seem to have the EGR tables set better in the cal now, I have more low-RPM power than I used to - so I can run the engine at a little lower RPMs now, which is nice.

[North Star]

I run the engine up to 5000 RPM when I'm accelerating really quickly or running someone - but not as a normal habit. With the 54H cams, the good torque doesn't happen until around 2700 anyway. In "normal" riding I will usually go to 3500 to 4000 before shifting - depending on how fast I can and want to accelerate. Normal cruising I keep it from 2000-2500, unless I'm going up one of our local hills - then it's 2500-3000. I don't watch the tach all the time tho... it more the feel of the engine and I shift when it feels right.

Since we finally seem to have the EGR tables set better in the cal now, I have more low-RPM power than I used to - so I can run the engine at a little lower RPMs now, which is nice.

Hey Ken, have you considered the 30T mod? It would definitely give you the low end punch you're looking for.

[North Georgia Hawg]

Hey Ken, have you considered the 30T mod? It would definitely give you the low end punch you're looking for.

Yes, I have, North Star. Thanks. I could do the 30T mod, or I could get the Drago's IDS chain drive. They are about the same cost, actually, with everything. I am leary of modding the swing arm, but I don't want to use an aftermarket belt.

There is actually another way... the rear pulley can be machined out on the sides to accept the 1 1/8" 139-tooth Tri Glide belt - which is a stronger belt anyway because it's made to pull the 1300 lb trike - and then you don't have to mod the swing arm. The Drago's IDS chain drive looks good, too. There are advantages and disadvantages to having a chain vs. a belt, of course. The chain is way stronger - Drago's says it's rated up to 350 HP! - and it can be easily removed and replaced, and the length adjusted, without having to take anything off of the bike - but it requires periodic cleaning and oiling. I've had lots of chain drive bikes before - so the maintenance doesn't bother me.

Not sure which way I'll go on this - but I definitely want to change the final drive ratio to get more low-end power at some point.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Funny as the 54 cam in a 103 it mid way in the 100+ tq range.. the 110 is low on comp unlessyou are going to  invest in pistons, head work...  is to use a cam that works with that comp level .. Again another reason that I like the "57" cam.. We have done a few since the first one and they have all been right in that same power range.  I would like to try the wes brwon 575 but most guys that bring them to me have seen the sheets on the 57 and none are unhappy with the end result.

Its not outstanding but it does have a very nice tq curve and it does not need other engine mods to work.. Budget wise hard pressed to beat a cam swap and ( stage I type parts) ..

28 hp and 25 tq gain.. same bike same dyno.. box stock to the mods listed..

[North Georgia Hawg]

Funny as the 54 cam in a 103 it mid way in the 100+ tq range.. the 110 is low on comp unlessyou are going to  invest in pistons, head work...  is to use a cam that works with that comp level .. Again another reason that I like the "57" cam.. We have done a few since the first one and they have all been right in that same power range.  I would like to try the wes brwon 575 but most guys that bring them to me have seen the sheets on the 57 and none are unhappy with the end result.

Its not outstanding but it does have a very nice tq curve and it does not need other engine mods to work.. Budget wise hard pressed to beat a cam swap and ( stage I type parts) ..

28 hp and 25 tq gain.. same bike same dyno.. box stock to the mods listed..

Thanks for the chart, GMR. I wonder why the SE 255s have that awful dip. Just curious... I dumped my 255s for the 54Hs with all of 300 miles on Buster.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

The bike was pulling timing.. some are worse than others.. It would ping pretty good on a roll on. I had the bike up to temp.. 5th, & 6th gear where a issue in stock form.

[North Georgia Hawg]

The bike was pulling timing.. some are worse than others.. It would ping pretty good on a roll on. I had the bike up to temp.. 5th, & 6th gear where a issue in stock form.

That's a pretty amazing difference without any head work or CR increase! Very nice, broad torque curve - and MUCH more power everywhere. The lower comp of the 57H doesn't seem to have the pinging issue at all, huh? My bike has never pinged at all with the 54Hs.

Thanks.