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[Charlie]

Hi Guys,

I am looking at upgrades and am considering the Feuling Kit below,
Race Series Camchest Kit + Gear Kit #7217k
With this kit is it worth looking at Pistons and Throttle Body whilst the work is being done?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated,


PRODUCT DETAILS From the Feuling Website :
BULLETPROOF CAMCHESTS!
FEULING complete camchest kits include all necessary components from top to bottom of the camchest conveniently packaged under 1 part #. These combination kits not only ensure each individual part is designed to work and function together but to do so in total harmony. These camchest kits take the guess work out of the ordering process and guarantees the engine builder maximum reliability, peak performance and the coolest engine and oil temperatures obtainable.

Complete Camchest Kits include: FEULING high volume Oil pump, high flow Camplate, REAPER Series Camshafts, hydraulic roller Lifters, adjustable Pushrods, Timken Bearings, Gaskets, O-rings, Exhaust gaskets, ARP fasteners, washers, moly paste, Loctite, and hardware.

Camchest kits are available in FEULING HP+ and RACE SERIES combinations and with gear drive or chain drive REAPER camshafts. Fitments available for 99-12 Twin Cam engines. 25-35 degree cooler engine temperatures, 15-30 degree cooler oil temperatures, 15-30 more pounds of oil pressure, quieter and smoother engine operation, eliminate wet sumping, blow by and oily air cleaners.

574 CAMS - Wicked power band for modified engines and an excellent bolt in for stock 96, 103 & 110 engines. This is a great all around camshaft with solid low end performance and mind blowing mid and top end power. Extremely smooth cam lobe design creates a very smooth valve-train motion. Responds very well to modified cylinder heads, increased compression ratio, performance exhaust and intake systems. Performance valve springs are required on 99-04 engines and performance pushrods and lifters are recommended. RPM 2,100 - 6,500

[North Georgia Hawg]

I run the Feuling cam plate and oil pump. They make high quality parts. I have no experience with the 574 cams, but I have read a number of posts on various forums that say they perform really well.

I would personally not run gear drive cams without first having the crank welded, balanced, and trued by a reputable shop like DarkHorse, T-Man, etc. Harley pressed-together cranks in Twin Cams are notorious for having excessive crank runout, and gear drive cams need very low runout as the tolerances are quite tight. With the stock bottom end, I think you're way better off staying with chain drive cams for long-term reliability. The Reaper cams are available in gear drive or chain drive.

Ken

[Charlie]

I run the Feuling cam plate and oil pump. They make high quality parts. I have no experience with the 574 cams, but I have read a number of posts on various forums that say they perform really well.

I would personally not run gear drive cams without first having the crank welded, balanced, and trued by a reputable shop like DarkHorse, T-Man, etc. Harley pressed-together cranks in Twin Cams are notorious for having excessive crank runout, and gear drive cams need very low runout as the tolerances are quite tight. With the stock bottom end, I think you're way better off staying with chain drive cams for long-term reliability. The Reaper cams are available in gear drive or chain drive.

Ken

Thanks Ken,

Being out in Dubai it may be a problem getting the crank welded, balanced and trued so as you say i may be better to just stick with the chain drive!
Do you find the engine runs cooler with the Feuling cam plate and oil pump?

Thanks,
Charlie

[North Georgia Hawg]

Thanks Ken,

Being out in Dubai it may be a problem getting the crank welded, balanced and trued so as you say i may be better to just stick with the chain drive!
Do you find the engine runs cooler with the Feuling cam plate and oil pump?

Thanks,
Charlie

Hard to say, Charlie.  I have done so many mods to my bike, I cannot point to a component or two and claim with confidence THAT'S what made the heat difference.

I think the most effective heat-reducing mods by far are getting rid of the cat, opening up the mufflers, and most importantly getting a good TUNE that runs the engine with the proper AFRs at all RPM and kPa. Getting the tune correct avoids the production of excess heat in the first place, so you don't need to get rid of it later. Also, getting rid of the SE 255 cams and their early-on compression, as you are planning, will reduce the heat produced.

I have done all that - plus the Feuling 8015/7060 that Feuling claims will reduce heat, and the Wards Parts Werks cooling fans with Jason's thermo switch to control them automatically to cool the heads. I also cut my lower doors so that when they are open, to get as much  airflow as possible. Some folks in FL remove their lowers entirely in the summer - but I like the look of them, and I don't want to lose the speakers in my lowers.

All of these things will help - but to what degree each of them does, I cannot say. I haven't done any measurements of each individually. Actually I haven't done any formal measurements of heat using a thermometer at all! I just monitor my oil temp using the digital dipstick with the LCD readout on it, and it stays relatively cool even in the summer. So, all of the above TOGETHER definitely DO help reduce the heat significantly... I can say that with certainty.

Out there in Dubai, I'm sure you need every heat-reducing trick there is - and you would be well served to do all that I have done.

FYI - Baker makes a "+1.5" oil pan that holds an additional quart and a half of oil. They claim it will reduce the oil temp considerably. I don't know if that's true - but it costs $600, and I haven't been overly inclined to try it out at that price! Oil changes would be more expensive as well, because of the additional oil needed. It also has cooling fins on the bottom of it that Baker claims helps cool the oil further... but who knows how effective it really is? It sounds good, but I'm not willing to do a $600 experiment to find out!

Ken

[Charlie]

Already changed pipes, SEPST, HD Premium Cooler, Wards Fans - Thermal Switch and lower temp Oil Cooler Thermostat and to be honest the bike runs much cooler! has never gone into safe mode since making the above changes! very happy, the only other cooling option i am considering is running the new Jagg fan assisted Oil Cooler in a loop with the HD! seems a good idea but I'm still checking to see if its feesable!

The new engine mods are more for performance! if i get any additional cooling thats great,

The biggest problem out in Dubai is getting the parts! we have a HD dealer but the prices are crazy! ex the Screaming Eagle Cam plate kit retails in the US for about $430! buy it in Dubai and after converting the currency (pegged to the Dollar) it works out you are paying $680, HD Variable Pressure Clutch Plate retails in the US for $280 in Dubai $470!! need i go on  i just wish i could find a dealer who would ship me HD parts from the US and i would be very happy!!!

I did look at the Baker oil pan, $600 + $300 shipping! extreme when when you consider Fuelmoto shipped my pipes for $150