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[Randy C]

I have a 09 serg and yesterday it started to run very hot and loss power.I got it home and checked it and found it was so hot the paint on the starter blistered,I pulled the plugs and found them both to be pure white,this happen to to me before but I had a power commander that failed and the o2 sensors were unhooked,Went back to a tts tuner and have had no problems till now.When the tuner  tuned it with the tts he said one of my o2 sensors was bad and replaced it with a used one he had handy.My question is if 1 o2 sensor goes bad will bot cylinders run lean.and second question how hard is it to replace the 110 with a 103 .110 to hot ,to noisy ,to many brakedowns.

[HOGMIKE]

How do you know you have  a bad sensor?
Any codes in ecm?

[Randy C]

Don't know yet I don't have a scanner just saying it did something similar before Can you pull code another way

[grc]

Don't know yet I don't have a scanner just saying it did something similar before Can you pull code another way

You can pull up the codes using the following technique:
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Odometer Self-Diagnostics DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM /HFSM, ECM and ABS DTCs. The Radio DTCs are retrieved through the radio and displayed on the radio display. See Table 2.

Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
Push odometer reset button in & hold.
Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPtb" with the first P flashing.
Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t to b and back to P, etc.)
P --> ECM (Electronic Control Module [EFI])
S --> TSM/TSSM/HFSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module/ Hands-free Security Module)
SP --> speedometer
t --> tachometer
b --> ABS codes
To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTCs the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTCs. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
Record the codes.
If DTCs are NOT to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' is displayed. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Perform a road test then shut your bike down. Recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 7. If the code is current it will reappear. Historic DTCs are stored for 50 ignition cycles before cleared. The security lamp will only indicate the existence of historic DTCs for two ignition cycles.
If DTCs are to be cleared for that module, press and hold the odometer reset button until 'clear' is displayed.
Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
Turn Ignition switch to OFF to exit the diagnostic mode.
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Jerry

[Randy C]

Thanks Jerry and Tsani  It definitely was not running rich I will try to check codes but didn't notice any problems lites on just oil pressure dropping and running extremely hot.

[Randy C]

No codes

[Steve Cole]

You might want to get your fuel pressure tested both at idle and under load. If the fuel pressure is dropping when riding you will get a very lean condition the ECM cannot adjust out.