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[lchavez]

Just want to get some opinions.  My 2000 SERG has started to sound like diesel tractor lately for no reason that I can think of.  I bought it used about 2 years ago with 17K miles and now has approx. 27K.  Just about 2 months ago it started to sound very clackity, like the valves were sticky.  I changed the oils, someone told me it could be the primary was out of adjustment, so I went in on the primary side and checked the adjustment and it was perfectly fine.  It sounds very much like the valve train, and especially after warm up.  I haven't looked, but are the push rods solid or adjustable?  And is it possible that they simply need adjustment?  Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks!

[Twolanerider]

Just want to get some opinions.  My 2000 SERG has started to sound like diesel tractor lately for no reason that I can think of.  I bought it used about 2 years ago with 17K miles and now has approx. 27K.  Just about 2 months ago it started to sound very clackity, like the valves were sticky.  I changed the oils, someone told me it could be the primary was out of adjustment, so I went in on the primary side and checked the adjustment and it was perfectly fine.  It sounds very much like the valve train, and especially after warm up.  I haven't looked, but are the push rods solid or adjustable?  And is it possible that they simply need adjustment?  Any help will be most appreciated.

Thanks!

Unless work has been done at some time the push rods are solids.  Just short of 30k miles it's time to worry about the cam chain tensioners.  If they fail completely and come apart you've potentially wrecked an engine.  If this is the problem and they are making the noises you describe it's time to stop running it now.  The engine you save may be your own.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

I'd put an eyeball inside the cam chest as Twolanerider has already suggested.
Might very well be able to catch it before it really raises hell.
Scott

[HD Street Performance]

A cam chest inspection is wise. Some of the early 2k twin cams also had the cam bearing failing (outers) like all the 99  m.y.
A vin check at the dealer would reveal if your vin is affected

[VANAMAL]

When the tensioners fail the bright orange pieces wind up in the oil filter.  Cut it open and have a look

[lchavez]

Thanks guys!  I really appreciate your responses.  Unfortunately, its my only transportation and now I'm totally paranoid riding it.  I'm going to have to take some time off work and will crack the cover to take a look-see.  As mentioned, I do appreciate all your advice.  I'll post what I find out.

[Twolanerider]

Thanks guys!  I really appreciate your responses.  Unfortunately, its my only transportation and now I'm totally paranoid riding it.  I'm going to have to take some time off work and will crack the cover to take a look-see.  As mentioned, I do appreciate all your advice.  I'll post what I find out.

Good luck.  I understand that with all the hyperbole often thrown around on chat sites like this it's easy to discount the more grandiose or bellicose or extreme warnings or rants.  For what it's worth, however, be careful on this one.  Those tensioners and early year cam bearings are a real and significant concern.  They're also a relatively easy and inexpensive fix (if doing it yourself) if caught early that can suddenly turn in to a total loss of the engine if allowed to go too long.  This isn't one you want to push to its last mile while keeping your fingers crossed.

[lchavez]

OK, so it's taking me this long to get the eagle back on the road, but there is life after a broken tensioner.  Even after riding several months (hate to admit) with it in its broken condition.  Here are some pictures of what I found after removing the cam chest cover.
Just one more thing, though.  It is my impression (and I should know this before going into it) but, I adjusted the new pushrods as if the tappets are solids.  In other words, no additional turns after reaching the point of no free movement side-to-side or up and down, but still able to spin freely.  Although, I hear a ticking noise that sounds like it's in the rear cylinder.  I've gone back into the tubes and put the tappets on zero lash again and rechecked the pushrods and they seem to be ok.  I haven't rechecked the fronts.  Maybe it's there and only sounds like it's in the rear.  I'll have to do that tonight.

Once again, thank you gentlemen who responded and provided the valuable information that saved my bike and probably lots of cash.

[lchavez]

I couldn't figure out how to post additional pictures in the one post, so here is what the rest of the tensioner looks like... this was actually floating around the bottom of the cam chest cavity.

[twinotter]

 There is a specific method for setting the pushrods, depending on brand etc. You need to get the instruction for your pushrods and follow them to the letter. It involves getting the cam in the right place, adjusting the pushrod to touch, then turning a specific number of turns or flats to get the hydraulic load.
The way you have yours adjusted, will destroy the pushrods, tappets or one or more could fall off the rockerarm. if that happens, piston could get to meet valves, bend connecting rods etc ( worst case senerio here).
Get them adjusted correctly. Buffalo

[Twolanerider]

Your pushrods aren't adjusted fully based no the description you gave.  You will go zero lash (something you can feel as you extend them).  You will then extend the pushrods some length longer. 

This amount of extension is generally measured in turns of the pushrods (because you can count that as you extend them and can't [easily] measure the distance.  The number of turns will depend on the thread count of the the threaded part of the pushrod itself.

If you have only adjusted the pushrods to zero lash you have them too short. 

An attachment to this post will be an old file that's been around for a long time (original source unknown) with most of the common pushrod brands and their adjustment specs along with some other information.  See if it will match to the brands you're using.  If not advise what you do have and someone will find the right spec for you.

[sadunbar]

While it's apart, it would be wise to pull the oil pump and inspect it.  It's not uncommon for pieces of cam chain tensioners to score the internals of the pump.  And, it is also a great time to replace the inner cam bearings.   

[Twolanerider]

While it's apart, it would be wise to pull the oil pump and inspect it.  It's not uncommon for pieces of cam chain tensioners to score the internals of the pump.  And, it is also a great time to replace the inner cam bearings.   

The things we just assume sometimes.....  Didn't occur to me that if already doing reassembly checking pump and changing bearings wouldn't have been part of the mix.  D'uh, my bad.

If they've been done, great.  The original poster was more on the ball than I was.  If these are things outside your experience so you didn't know to catch them be sure and do so.  It's a potential big deal that is so much easier now than later.

[sadunbar]

The things we just assume sometimes.....  Didn't occur to me that if already doing reassembly checking pump and changing bearings wouldn't have been part of the mix.  D'uh, my bad.

If they've been done, great.  The original poster was more on the ball than I was.  If these are things outside your experience so you didn't know to catch them be sure and do so.  It's a potential big deal that is so much easier now than later.

As long as we're making assumptions, I'll assume the inner cam chain tensioner was inspected also?   

I've never seen a cam tensioner disintegrate to that degree without some level of oil pump damage...   

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Witnessed an OE untouched 88"er once with over 130,000 on the clock, that the inner shoe was MIA except for the
side plates.
Pump surprisingly was still serviceable, but did have evidence of debris that passed thru.
Couldn't look the client in the eye and say a new pump was needed by any means.
Scott