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[Toddster]

Had partial stage 4 build on my 103. All except bigger throttle body and higher lift cam. I put in the 254 e.
Anyway how many miles should i put on before having tune done?

As always being mechanically challenged I appreciate all input

[dlaws01]

I believe approximately 50 hours of operation should be sufficient for a proper break in period.  I'm sure you will get many, many different responses to this question.

[lonewolf55]

Zero. Break it in in the dyno. Why would you want to break in an untuned engine?

[Lever]

x2 dyno 

[Doc 1]

50 to 75 monitored miles on the dyno is enough time to seat the rings.
 As Russel said, running an un-tuned bike will do more damage than you can imagined. 
Doc

[SDCVO]

Would you recommend doing a "base tune" when new and then a "final tune" after around 1000 miles? I tuned my bike right away when i first got it and it seems like the tune is not as good now with some decel popping and gas mileage getting worse as the miles have stacked up (just under 12000 now). I am putting in a 120r soon and the dealer said they would put in a "base tune" for me when I pick it up (being in CA, they are not really equipped to do a "dialed in" tune as their equipment is out dated because of the laws out here) and I thought I should put 1000 miles on it then find the guy to really dial it in?

[Fullsac Performance]

Straight to the dyno room. 

[SDCVO]

That seems to be the thing to do. OK, Im in..

[FlaHeatWave]

'Just went through this on the '09 with the install of the SE Stage III Pro Kit and a new crank (front rod bearing was a little out of spec).
The process that my dealer and I agreed on (he has to warranty it for at least another 4 years) was to load a (preliminary) tune (the tune was pretty close and on the rich side -the bike ran well) and some soft dyno time with several hot / cold cycles, then the tech put about 15-20 miles on the bike. I put > 500 miles on the bike keeping the tach between 2200 - 2900 rpm and varying rpm as practical with several trips through the gears to 4k rpm (around 3/4 throttle) as I got over 500miles took it through the the gears to 5k rpm a few times. We used dino oil for the initial break-in then changed to synthetic after the final dyno tune. Oil consumption was pretty much non-existent.
After a 3k mile trip to the mountains with some hard riding buds, the dipstick is down almost 1/2 qt. (I did not check it for a baseline reading when I picked it up - I know, I should have)
This is basically what has worked for me over the years, ( I was a mechanic that used to build and break-in about 10 - 15 motors of various types, a year )

I know that if you ask 10 people this question, that you will get 12 different answers
Your results may vary...

[Fullsac Performance]

Check out this Guy!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is how I did my current 2012 103 in the dyno room, then made full throttle pulls at 20 miles. 74 HP bone stock 103. Most don't break 70hp on my dyno.
Obviously wasn't trying to build a fuel map, just getting a baseline before I started hopping it up.

I'm not endorsing this, just saying I do it with my own bikes.

Steve George
Fullsac Performance

[hrdtail78]

I also do a modified version of Mototune dyno break in.  If the big concern is rings?  Doing pressure checks between heat soaks and dyno break in pulls can be an eye opener.

I'm sure things will loosen up after 1000 miles, but I can't see the requirements of injector pulse width, or timing change. Exhaust clamps will also loosen during this time.