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[timo482]

i like mandrels - its making them that sucks. typically the fixtures and tooling take as long as the first 10 of any part.

having nice tooling is something that is collected over time - by the time you have a nice set its either obsolete or we are no longer on the right side of the grass. the first task is to try and use some tooling we already have and then make nice new stuff when that fails.

one problem i have had with mandrels is making them stiff enough - i have had a couple that would vibrate and ring - that soooooo sucks.

the trouble i have with magnetic dial indicators is that most operations are multiple tools - and there is no good way to rezero the dial indicator after every tool change. the old machines like the zubal were not made for DRO so the adjusting screws for the gibs are exactly where the scale needs to go - the only way to get one on the carriage is to mount it behind the machine on the taper attachment bolts and let it stick out the back a foot or so - that will require a whole lot of ingenuity with redoing the splash shield to collect the coolant. one idea I'm going to really look at is get one of the digital scale non dro units that are made for a bridgeport quill its like a caliper with no jaws.. might work if it will tolerate the coolant..

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[sadunbar]

i like mandrels - its making them that sucks. typically the fixtures and tooling take as long as the first 10 of any part.

having nice tooling is something that is collected over time - by the time you have a nice set its either obsolete or we are no longer on the right side of the grass. the first task is to try and use some tooling we already have and then make nice new stuff when that fails.

one problem i have had with mandrels is making them stiff enough - i have had a couple that would vibrate and ring - that soooooo sucks.

the trouble i have with magnetic dial indicators is that most operations are multiple tools - and there is no good way to rezero the dial indicator after every tool change. the old machines like the zubal were not made for DRO so the adjusting screws for the gibs are exactly where the scale needs to go - the only way to get one on the carriage is to mount it behind the machine on the taper attachment bolts and let it stick out the back a foot or so - that will require a whole lot of ingenuity with redoing the splash shield to collect the coolant. one idea I'm going to really look at is get one of the digital scale non dro units that are made for a bridgeport quill its like a caliper with no jaws.. might work if it will tolerate the coolant..

to

The plant I used to run had large set of pneumatic expandable mandrels that were used for a variety of processes. Probably 20 size ranges.  Fantastic time savers and highly accurate...   

[TorqueInc]

Oh no, the vendor on vendor sarcasm continues

  Also notice how this one started....I guess a quicker and more accurate way of doing something is a bad idea

The plant I used to run had large set of pneumatic expandable mandrels that were used for a variety of processes. Probably 20 size ranges.  Fantastic time savers and highly accurate...   

   Accurate they are....the one I have for 3.91 bore is 28 lbs and all steel

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

  If I wanted to spend all day setting up cylinders....that would be fine

  With a mandrel you can cut both ends off the same setup....much quicker and more accurate.

  Not sure how having the right tool for the job makes you right or wrong but.....no beaver tooth marks in my cylinders 

A "skilled" machinist can very quickly set up what I described, cognative word, "skilled", and last I knew, Randy, at Hyperformance performs a very similar operation as us. That's odd?
Please describe how a set of aluminum soft jaws, turned to a radius of the bore size, carefully de-burred, extending into the bore 3", with the locating surface face, machined perpendicular to the O.D. is going to leave marks in the bore, of this extremely accurate process?? Please describe how that soft aluminum, is going to harm the harder cast iron?
And that aside, the next step in the cylinder machining process, or at least here, would then be to bore, and/or torque hone as needed.
Marks in a bore?.... You'll need to get up earlier than that, if you are going to attempt to make the folks here, believe what your talking about..........
Truth be known, you couldn't machine a set of aluminum, or steel soft-jaws if you had to....... you've only seen pictures of it in a book somewhere......
Gotta' get back to surface-grinding a special sized pair of flywheel spacers for an 84", 1950 FL.............but, I bet you've done that also........
Carry on.

[TorqueInc]

  Why would I need a set of soft jaws to use a mandrel that runs between centers ?

  Better yet why would I need a chuck in a lathe that has never had one in it ?

  IF you think that clamping the thinnest part of a cylinder is the BEST way to fixture a cylinder in a lathe.....good for you   

   As for the rest....I don't repair old Harley engines so once again......Trolling away

 

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

  .............you really don't, have a clue........

[smiley1049]

Man it's like being in junior high all over again!

[Twolanerider]

A "skilled" machinist can very quickly set up what I described, cognative word, "skilled",

It's "congnitive." 

(When you're trying to compete against or insult someone the impact is improved by getting the (somewhat moderately) big words right.)

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

It's "congnitive." 

(When you're trying to compete against or insult someone the impact is improved by getting the (somewhat moderately) big words right.)

Thanks..........

[mike jesse]

Tough crowd...........and funny. Get back to me when you have an open mind.