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Author Topic: 110" out to 124"  (Read 5302 times)

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Rooster

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Re: 110" out to 124"
« Reply #15 on: July 10, 2014, 04:46:08 PM »

You will also need to upgrade the clutch to something much better, replace the tranny right plate with a Baker unit to prevent bearing/shaft walk. These are musts if you expect the powertrain to last with 124 power leading the way.
I use a Primo Rivera clutch with the gold spring, it has held my 126.5hp/134t for 7yrs now. You need strong hands to deal with the clutch pull at stops, or find neutral while rolling to a stop. Others have used various combos with variable rate weighted devices. I just learned to live with it!! Twinotter
I had to add the gold diaphragm spring as well with the Rivera clutch as it was slipping on the dyno while tuning. It was a little stiff in the beginning but now I am used to it just pop it into neutral when I have to sit a traffic light. Holding in the clutch for a long period of time can get a little rough.
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tweeter13

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Re: 110" out to 124"
« Reply #16 on: July 10, 2014, 08:17:19 PM »

You may be able to keep the 110 and still get into the 10s with going to a Chain drive. 

I am sure one of the guys that races could get you really close with out spending so much money.  If it don't go as quick as you want you then can go after bigger cubes. 

Going to the bigger cubes you still may need to change over to the chain drive anyhow when you are leaving that hard.  You are going to tear up belts.   

Hillside cycle may chime in here.  I am sure they could get that bike into the 11 to ten second range for a lot less money and broken parts than just going with a bigger engine.   

I myself would change sprockets and see where that got me first. 

Todd.
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: 110" out to 124"
« Reply #17 on: July 11, 2014, 07:15:37 AM »

Good point, as a gearing is a VERY important part of the equation. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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