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[Dan_Lockwood]

My oil combo is still working well, but after a lot more riding I'm not sure that it's a "fix" for motor rattles in the top end.  The Liqui-Moly seems to build oil pressure quickly and I don't hear as much startup clatter like before.

I like the Redline Primary and trans Redline Shockproof lubes very much.

Is the Liqui-Moly better than my Amsoil that I was using before, not sure yet.  But it's not any worse either.

After reading the loose rocker thread from the HD Forum, I think my next upgrade will be a new set of lifters, adjustable push rods and pull down the rocker covers and check out the rocker shafts for "some" of the clatter that I constantly hear.

I'm so low on miles that I'm going to be running all the same lube for my trip to Sturgis.  I'll probably put on a couple thousand miles while I'm there.  We do LOTS of riding and not much sitting and drinking.  It depends on the weather too of course.

So I'm still recommending the Liqui-Moly as a good choice over Syn-3, but is it that much better than others like Mobil-1, Amsoil etc...

[adkg12]

I am at over 6k on my Liqui-moly and it is still quiet, and on just recently (last week) did I have to add some oil...When I do change the oil, I intend to send off an oil sample for analysis. 
Thanks
Glen

[Rooster]

It seems the 30t conversion is the way to go if you have an 07 as I believe 07 was geared the highest. So the newer bikes prolly would do best with the 31t as there is already a 2 tooth difference in the rear belt pulley from 09 or 08 and newer bikes.

[adkg12]

I was told either change would make things better and one is easier and less expensive...lol

[Classic Beast]

Put in the liqui moly along with a Feuling 574 cam and S&S prem lifters, the valve train is nice and quiet now not a tic anywhere, not sure if the oil made any difference my evil tic is gone.

[2k]

OK, OK.......one more sip of the snake oil. Have used Mobil 1 for years but 20W-50 getting harder to find so I order 10L of the LM 10W-60. With all the raves I have read and only bout a buck more per L, not a real big gamble(I hope).

[Chains]

Did the same, it goes on next oil change which may be after Maggie Valley.

[SHRADER]

I changed to the Liqui Moly based in part upon the info the thread. After riding the first few miles the top end was slightly less noisy but I am not sure its any more quiet than if I had used any other fresh oil. I reckon time will tell. Only got to put around 60 miles on the sickle this weekend.

[MrSurly]

I know nothing of the LM or any other brand or type, but I will say something about "grade".

I just went through a big learning ordeal about the grade or "weight" (viscosity) of oil and one practical effect. There's a long version of the story but suffice it to say that the oiling system especially '07 and later, uses a tiny oil pump that is working at max capacity to supply enough volume for the various outlets that dump the oil on chains and tensioners etc and still be able to supply pressure for the crank and bearings. The little pinhole orifices are all sized for the specified 20 weight oil. The ports really dump a lot MORE oil if you use a lower viscosity. This extra 'loss' of oil flowing through these ports taxes the capacity of the pump, greatly reducing the pressure that will build in the system at this low rpm. Would it have made at least acceptable oil pressure at running rpm? Maybe, but I wasn't comfortable with testing that.
With a perfect pump, all parts in perfect condition and as a test, I cranked the engine over with plugs removed, electronics disabled and the cam chest cover and a rocker box cover removed.  With 5w-50 in it my 110 would not build any oil pressure while cranking, but holy crap, did it dump a lot of oil out of the cam plate orifices and tensioners! With 20W, SIGNIFICANTLY less oil from the orifices and it immediately jumped up to 12 psi while cranking. That is a significant difference.
I didn't have any 10W on hand but I wish i had.
I would suggest that you stick with 20W(dash-whatever) oil.

I may use the LM someday, but it will ALWAYS be 20W at least.

[adkg12]

I dont know about all of that but it was to my understanding that the Harley engines arent based on pressure but instead that are about volume.  Moving more oil at low to low mid pressure ranges?  I am not an expert so I am kind of asking as well..
Glen

[grofcvo]

Well after a lengthy amount of downtime doing a few things to the '09 SERG that included the 30 tooth drive sprocket update with the swingarm slot update, I have the bike running again.

I put in the Liqui-Moly synthetic motor oil, Redline Shockproof, Redline Primary Oil and fired it up.

The startup tick was there because of the new filter and oil change etc.  But after it pumped up, the motor on idle "seemed" quieter than it used to.  Also at the dreaded 2500/3500 rpm range, it seemed quieter too.

I can't say for sure, but my seat of the pants dyno says this oil pulley change combo is MUCH MORE responsive than before.  I've done many hard run ups through the gears and even in the very short, 5 miles test ride, when I hit second gear hard I swear that it felt like the front wheel was getting loose. 

Maybe it's the primary oil that's giving the clutch a bit more grip along with the new gearing, but this baby chits and gets like it's never done before.

Once I get out of first gear the 30 tooth should not be a factor in acceleration.  I've yet to reset my TTS for the speedo error, but that will come soon.

So for right now, I'm VERY PLEASED with the Liqui-Moly and Redline Products.  I didn't ride in 5th enough to notice any drop in straight cut gear noise, time will tell on that one and the Redline Shockproof.

I'm good...

I would also recommend the 30 tooth conversion to anyone riding two up.  Not only two up, but parking lot 1st gear speed was reduced.  Before with the clutch engaged in 1st gear in parking lots, it was way too fast and I had to slip the clutch quite a bit to keep the speeds down.  This seems have improved some as well.

I bought the swingarm gusset reinforcement kit from Barefoot and the fit was great.  A little welding and then grinding out the slot .200" and touch up paint, nobody would ever know it had been modified.  Great investment!

hey Dan,
question on 30 tooth mode, did you use 3 glide sprocket or something else , can you do a review on that mode and what is difference from stock , was it hard to do it. tnx

[Dan_Lockwood]

hey Dan,
question on 30 tooth mode, did you use 3 glide sprocket or something else , can you do a review on that mode and what is difference from stock , was it hard to do it. tnx

Grogcvo, I was not that hard to do the 30t, but I have welding skills and my own welding setup.  If someone had to farm it out, it would be a bit more difficult, or have someone come over with a rig and do it in your shop.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=67516.0

The above thread is from Fullsac and Steve does a great job of showing all of the mods necessary.

I didn't have to remove my swingarm as I used the same stock 140t belt.  I used an Andrews 30t pulley I bought from Rob May several years ago, just hadn't done the install.  Today I would buy the Tri-Glide 30t, but when I bought mine there were no Tri-Glides.

As I've said, this is a great upgrade and makes the bike very nice to ride.

While in Sturgis a couple weeks ago, the wife and I took a trip to Wall and with the speed limit at 80 mph, I was at 80 and my rpms were at 3200.  I normally don't ride that fast, but 70 to 75 is more my speed and at that I'm under 3000 rpms.  The big improvement is from a standing start 2-up.  First gear now has a LOT more pull without slipping the clutch.  And all through the gears there is a big difference, almost like a Stage 1 upgrade.

Hope this helps you some.

Again, if you can do the welding mods on the rear swingarm, this is a no brainer for the cost and the performance gains.

[HarleyJeffOregon]

Well I had to give this oil a try. been using syn3 for 85,000 miles. I have to say the motor is way quieter. Most of the rattling is gone. Now I just here the chain in the primary. If it stays quiet I will be a happy camper. I have changed oil in this bike every 5000 miles since new. All of my other bikes I have done at 2500 mile intervals. To date this bike only uses 1/2 a quart every 5000 miles. Now I wonder if there is something I could do diff in the primary to make it quiet also. Thanks for sharing.

[adkg12]

I think Lucas primary cooler is pretty quiet..as well as Redline primary oil.