Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[bulawrench]

Hey Guys,
Just wondering if the run/kill switch on any CVOs have stop working. I thought i was stuck on the road the other day and if i just used the ignition switch to shut the bike off it was OK.
I guess splicing in a new switch would be the answer. Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks

[sadunbar]

Hey Guys,
Just wondering if the run/kill switch on any CVOs have stop working. I thought i was stuck on the road the other day and if i just used the ignition switch to shut the bike off it was OK.
I guess splicing in a new switch would be the answer. Anyone else have this issue?
Thanks

I've not had that problem nor do I recall hearing of others having the issue...   

[GregKhougaz]

I'm responding from my phone so I can't see what kind of bike you have. Harley had whole batches of switches go bad on the 2014 and 15 touring models.

[bulawrench]

Thanks guys,
It's a 2008 dyna and the service manual showes splicing both switches so I assume they knew something. I may try some contact cleaner first. Knock on wood it has been a great bike.

[FinalShot]

Mines a daily rider and I have not had any problems.

[grc]

Thanks guys,
It's a 2008 dyna and the service manual showes splicing both switches so I assume they knew something. I may try some contact cleaner first. Knock on wood it has been a great bike.

The switch part number is 71589-96B, so it's been around a long time (1996) and it's been revised at least twice as signified by that -B- in the part number.  It's also obsolete since it doesn't come up as a current part number on the few dealer part sites I've tried it on. 

I'd suggest testing the switch (power off, connect an ohm meter to the wires, and operate the switch several times, watching for continuity (zero resistance) in one position and infinite resistance in the other).  If you had water in the switch a shot of contact cleaner could eliminate that (assuming you can get it actually into the switch), but that isn't going to keep it from happening again or fix a corroded contact.  I'm not sure what Harley is telling customers who need a new switch, so you may want to ask your dealer, assuming they have a good parts guy who will take the time to find out versus just blow you off.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

The switch part number is 71589-96B, so it's been around a long time (1996) and it's been revised at least twice as signified by that -B- in the part number.  It's also obsolete since it doesn't come up as a current part number on the few dealer part sites I've tried it on. 

I'd suggest testing the switch (power off, connect an ohm meter to the wires, and operate the switch several times, watching for continuity (zero resistance) in one position and infinite resistance in the other).  If you had water in the switch a shot of contact cleaner could eliminate that (assuming you can get it actually into the switch), but that isn't going to keep it from happening again or fix a corroded contact.  I'm not sure what Harley is telling customers who need a new switch, so you may want to ask your dealer, assuming they have a good parts guy who will take the time to find out versus just blow you off.

Jerry

The handlebar switches were used in too many bikes for too long and too recently to have gone obsolete Jerry.  Maybe a supercession?  Even Harley couldn't have obsoleted that part yet. 

However....   Just like some relatively recent master cylinder gaskets and other parts Mother Harley really has made obsolete thank goodness we have the benefit of a mature aftermarket.  Drag Specialties part number 2106-0083 is a replacement for the stop switch.

[bulawrench]

You guys are a wealth of info. Jerry, indeed if it is a sealed switch, no amount of contact cleaner will solve the corrosion. Thanks also for the info on part number. The dealers are actually both really good in Vancouver B.C. Barns especially is accommodating.

[grc]

The handlebar switches were used in too many bikes for too long and too recently to have gone obsolete Jerry.  Maybe a supercession?  Even Harley couldn't have obsoleted that part yet. 

However....   Just like some relatively recent master cylinder gaskets and other parts Mother Harley really has made obsolete thank goodness we have the benefit of a mature aftermarket.  Drag Specialties part number 2106-0083 is a replacement for the stop switch.

I agree Don, and I found it strange that no info on a superceding part number showed up on the various sites I tried.  I did notice on the Granite State OEM parts listing they had a note to call them if you needed that switch, which leads me to believe there isn't a simple part number change.  Those they always indicate on the parts lists with a triangle and note about the superceding part number.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

I agree Don, and I found it strange that no info on a superceding part number showed up on the various sites I tried.  I did notice on the Granite State OEM parts listing they had a note to call them if you needed that switch, which leads me to believe there isn't a simple part number change.  Those they always indicate on the parts lists with a triangle and note about the superceding part number.

Jerry

In use as late as 2-3 years ago I'd think they're still within the Federal limit for parts supply.  Like you I have to believe there's something in the pipe.  A part used in too great a quantity for too long and too recently.

I hope it's not a supercession that necessitates some whole kit or switch group replacement rather than just the individual piece.  That's the kind of thing I'd not put past Mother Harley.  If so, thank gawd for an aftermarket.

[Ridgerunr]

On models that have a separate ignition switch I only use the kill in an emergency, I always use the ignition switch. My 2014 CVO RK doesn't have a separate ignition switch, the run/kill is the ignition switch, hopefully it's a sturdy piece.

[grc]

On models that have a separate ignition switch I only use the kill in an emergency, I always use the ignition switch. My 2014 CVO RK doesn't have a separate ignition switch, the run/kill is the ignition switch, hopefully it's a sturdy piece.

Keep your fingers crossed.  Both left and right switch modules have had issues from day one, and they've undergone a couple engineering changes so far.  And there is no replacing just one switch anymore, it's a complete assembly for around $231.86 each once the warranty expires.

Jerry

[Ridgerunr]

Ouch, that's  ridiculous. ESP I purchased may end up being worth it.

[bulawrench]

Turned out to be the 8 dollar start relay. That will be the cheapest fixes of 2015. Thanks for the help guys

[RayG]

For those that have a Road King and have the switch mounted to the console running the length of the tank, apparently there is nothing to prevent water from getting in there close to where the tank mounts by the front.  I had my switch fail so I removed the tank to check out the switch.  There was a lot of corrosion on the old one, I don't remember the cost but I just replaced it and will look into a way to prevent the water from getting in there.  If there is a piece to keep the water out, mine did not have one. 

Ray