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[North Star]

This sucks- I had the top end done 20,000 miles ago, including new jugs and pistons, but since I've been consuming some oil, I finally had a compression and leak down test done.

With the ACR disabled (fuse was removed), compression is 170 front cylinder, 140 rear. On the leak down, we could hear air through the intake and a bit through the oil filler cap.

I have my other TTS 100 thread going, in which I have my dyno charts from a recent TTS100 and Fullsac DX install. I guess considering the state of my engine, 99hp/117 tq corrected are really good numbers, especially on a realistic/conservative dyno.

Dave Stoddart recommends the Zippers Stage I heads ($650), and new .010 over HD pistons, rings, and boring my existing cylinders. It will all be assembled and tuned by him.

I noticed on Zippers website they have Stage II heads, but apparently they aren't done on 110 heads. Then they have the Stage III, but that would require a 55mm TB, and after all that, maybe the TTS100 wouldn't be the best cam. Plus, that would potentially lessen reliability, which I don't need in a 50,000 mile engine with a stock bottom end.

I'm putting my OEM catless ceramic coated pipe back on, and selling the Fullsac DX. Once the work is done, we will try my existing Rineharts and my spare set of OEM CVO mufflers with the 2" Fullsac cores, and see which works best for me.

So, that's the plan. Disappointing that I have to do this all over again, but such is life.

[North Star]

Here is the link to the Zippers Stage I heads-

http://www.zippersperformance.com/zippers-workhorse-heads.html

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

OUR Stage I's are ported, with guides in place, 1.900" intakes, 1.610" exhausts, springs are tested, cc'd and surfaced for the dedicated build, port ID match to the manifold ID............. $650.00.

[North Star]

Same price as Zippers Scott, are there any differences with the work that is done between yours and Zippers heads? Have you done heads for Dave or Pocono Mtn HD before?

[North Star]

Also would you recommend a .030 HG with these heads and TTS100 cam?

[TorqueInc]

This sucks- I had the top end done 20,000 miles ago, including new jugs and pistons, but since I've been consuming some oil, I finally had a compression and leak down test done.

With the ACR disabled (fuse was removed), compression is 170 front cylinder, 140 rear. On the leak down, we could hear air through the intake and a bit through the oil filler cap.

I have my other TTS 100 thread going, in which I have my dyno charts from a recent TTS100 and Fullsac DX install. I guess considering the state of my engine, 99hp/117 tq corrected are really good numbers, especially on a realistic/conservative dyno.

Dave Stoddart recommends the Zippers Stage I heads ($650), and new .010 over HD pistons, rings, and boring my existing cylinders. It will all be assembled and tuned by him.

I noticed on Zippers website they have Stage II heads, but apparently they aren't done on 110 heads. Then they have the Stage III, but that would require a 55mm TB, and after all that, maybe the TTS100 wouldn't be the best cam. Plus, that would potentially lessen reliability, which I don't need in a 50,000 mile engine with a stock bottom end.

I'm putting my OEM catless ceramic coated pipe back on, and selling the Fullsac DX. Once the work is done, we will try my existing Rineharts and my spare set of OEM CVO mufflers with the 2" Fullsac cores, and see which works best for me.

So, that's the plan. Disappointing that I have to do this all over again, but such is life.

  The stage III heads from Zippers actually outflow the numbers on their website
  and combined with a 58 throttle body and any one of half a dozen bolt in cams would work really well for you without killing reliability.

  The one thing you should ask them to do...IMO is to install Manganese bronze guides in the exhaust

  Im sending a set of these out the door Monday and they flow 308/218 the only changes that were made was the replacement of the exhaust guides and a radius and throat cut of maybe .005 to the exhaust throat as it had a minute step in it from my cutter.

  Not sure if you have ever dealt with zippers but they have truly good customer service and while their stuff does not set off any bells it will withstand the test of time....I would think they will custom configure a set of heads for you that will do what you want

[Twolanerider]

  Not sure if you have ever dealt with zippers but they have truly good customer service

That's certainly different than what the was the experience of many here several years ago.  Hopefully for a potential customer base there really has been improvement.

[HD Street Performance]

Ask Dave about my heads

[sadunbar]

That's certainly different than what the was the experience of many here several years ago.  Hopefully for a potential customer base there really has been improvement.

I second that comment...  My experience was less than satisfying, but it was 8 years ago.  They've had some time to improve...

[baddyna96]

Just wondering...why would you take off the DX header? Wouldn't that be counter-productive to the build you are planning?

[TorqueInc]

That's certainly different than what the was the experience of many here several years ago.  Hopefully for a potential customer base there really has been improvement.

  Dealing with them as a vendor....buying parts from them I could be no happier and they always deliver on time and if not I get a call and usually a text message with "heres the deal"

  Could not ask for more.

  And not everything needs to be a sales pitch....IF DS is recommending Zippers and he is familiar with their parts.....might be a good idea

[North Star]

Just wondering...why would you take off the DX header? Wouldn't that be counter-productive to the build you are planning?

I have a 2009 headpipe which never had a cat in it. I spent $300 for a top quality ceramic coat, which I think is better than on the popular aftermarket pipes. For my bike, Im not convinced the DX gives me any more, and certainly not $500+ more, so Id rather put the OEM back on and get some $$ back from selling the DX.

I think the DX is a better option for those with the newer bike where cutting out the cat may possibly cause cross talk issues.

[North Star]

I just put the TTS100 cams in and if I went Stage III and a 58TB, Id probably be better off with another cam, and I dont want to do that after paying the labor to have them installed 2 months ago.

Doing the Stage I heads with all the parts, labor, and re-tune will run me about $2,500 (US which is over $3,000 CDN these days). Since I spent that much 20,000 miles ago on then first top end rebuild, Im at my limit with sinking money in this engine. I could of had a 120 for that much cake.

In the end, I will go with what Dave suggests or signs off on since I trust his abilities and honesty. Always nice to hear other suggestions though.

Also, I just bought my first second bike- a new 2015 Suzuki DR 650 dual sport, which will need a few bucks for some mods too 

[HD Street Performance]

Heat and pressure is what caused the premature failure.
Addressing that will get you a long living good running motorcycle.
Speaking of flaws with the stock platform, what about the crank? That should at least be trued and pinned / welded.

[North Star]

Heat and pressure is what caused the premature failure.
Addressing that will get you a long living good running motorcycle.
Speaking of flaws with the stock platform, what about the crank? That should at least be trued and pinned / welded.

I thought that was addressed with the last rebuild. Apparently not. Hopefully this time with the work being done by a better guy.

My crank run out is .05 or .005 whichever one sounds right. Whats the cost for the crankwork? If I were to do that, I for sure might as well get a 120ST.