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[Rooster]

The crank work averages about $14-1500 range from the few I have seen.

[HD Street Performance]

There are others that can do that work same quality for much less. At the 1000 price point a new S&S crank becomes viable.

Dave can lead the show he is very capable and can give you the scoop on cranks.

Some of the motors I help guys with end up with slipped wheels after they have new found power. I am always asked at what power level to fix the cranks. There is no finite answer. It is just gambling if you don't and at the point where the cases are split anyway and the motor is out the cost is marginal.

[Rooster]

Thanks HD, I was hoping some would chime in. I am interested to hear more about what is available now as my info was "last I heard" type. 

[North Star]

  The stage III heads from Zippers actually outflow the numbers on their website
  and combined with a 58 throttle body and any one of half a dozen bolt in cams would work really well for you without killing reliability.

  The one thing you should ask them to do...IMO is to install Manganese bronze guides in the exhaust

  Im sending a set of these out the door Monday and they flow 308/218 the only changes that were made was the replacement of the exhaust guides and a radius and throat cut of maybe .005 to the exhaust throat as it had a minute step in it from my cutter.

  Not sure if you have ever dealt with zippers but they have truly good customer service and while their stuff does not set off any bells it will withstand the test of time....I would think they will custom configure a set of heads for you that will do what you want

Are these the valve guides you are referring to? You said only for the exhaust valves?

http://valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com/viewitems/ts-harley-davidson-twin-cam-88-103-br-2005-to-2014/ese-for-harley-davidson-twin-cam-88--103-2005-2014?

[TorqueInc]

Are these the valve guides you are referring to? You said only for the exhaust valves?

http://valvetrain.kpmivalvetrain.com/viewitems/ts-harley-davidson-twin-cam-88-103-br-2005-to-2014/ese-for-harley-davidson-twin-cam-88--103-2005-2014?

  Yessir....that is not the right part number but the right brand/material IMO

 would probably use a 20-2120M and a 20-2130M and the light blue Viton US seal seals

[ltank]

I put about 60k miles on my motor and the front cylinder base/cylinder gasket started to bulge out. Removed cylinders replaced gaskets. Cylinders were perfect. Honed them, new rings,
Lapped the valves and valve seals. Broke in the motors. Don't know why that happened to you.

[FlaHeatWave]

I thought that was addressed with the last rebuild. Apparently not. Hopefully this time with the work being done by a better guy.

My crank run out is .05 or .005 whichever one sounds right. Whats the cost for the crankwork? If I were to do that, I for sure might as well get a 120ST.

I think msrp on the S&S Crank is around $1300. +labor. IMO definitely the way to go...

At this point, the 120st or 124lc would be my choices, with the S&S 124lc being preferable, not for more power, for longevity...

[fastfreddy]

lets just say     .050=bad     .005=soso   

[goop]

You would be better off with  s&s 124 motor.

[North Star]

Well the stage I plan with new jugs and pistons with a tune and taxes would be $2500 total. A new 124 or ST120 would be more than double that with its out the door price.

But that is a reason why I dont think I would drop much more than $2500 on this engine because yeah, I would be better off with a 124 vs putting say, $3500+ into this engine.

[sadunbar]

Well the stage I plan with new jugs and pistons with a tune and taxes would be $2500 total. A new 124 or ST120 would be more than double that with its out the door price.

But that is a reason why I dont think I would drop much more than $2500 on this engine because yeah, I would be better off with a 124 vs putting say, $3500+ into this engine.

Why new cylinders instead of going +.010 with your current cylinders?  Odds are good your new cylinders will not be as round or straight as your current cylinders would be after boring/honing...  New OEM cylinders will never be as round or straight as boring/honing seasoned cylinders.  Completely rebuild your heads with new everything, bore your cylinders +.010, buy new +.010 pistons and you'll spend maybe $1000 to $1200 and arguably have a better result.  It's very possible your first rebuild failed due to less than optimum "new" cylinder geometry.    And no need for a new tune if you keep the combustion chamber cc's the same.   Just a thought...   

[Yellow09SERG]

If you are to the boring cyls stage, I would be thinking going 4.060 and doing the 113. Be pretty much cost neutral to just rebuilding back to 110

[North Star]

Why new cylinders instead of going +.010 with your current cylinders?  Odds are good your new cylinders will not be as round or straight as your current cylinders would be after boring/honing...  New OEM cylinders will never be as round or straight as boring/honing seasoned cylinders.  Completely rebuild your heads with new everything, bore your cylinders +.010, buy new +.010 pistons and you'll spend maybe $1000 to $1200 and arguably have a better result.  It's very possible your first rebuild failed due to less than optimum "new" cylinder geometry.    And no need for a new tune if you keep the combustion chamber cc's the same.   Just a thought...   

My mistake- not getting new cylinders, he will bore and do the .010 pistons, exactly the package of mods you mentioned.  He will just do a clean up tune as it will be required since the last tune he did was with the engine running on low compression- only charging 2 hrs labor for that.

[North Star]

If you are to the boring cyls stage, I would be thinking going 4.060 and doing the 113. Be pretty much cost neutral to just rebuilding back to 110

Good thought- shouldnt cost anymore to get 113 pistons vs .010 overbores....Ill have to ask him about that.

[HD Street Performance]

Not true, they cost more and are not oem HD parts.