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[Dan_Lockwood]

I've got an '09 SERG.  I've done the searches and I've seen some nice bars.  I think I would prefer the "factory" look with the rounded corners, just a bit higher is all.

I just did a set of 12" bars for my neighbor on his '16 SESG and we were able to reuse his clutch/brake lines, albeit adjust them slightly for the new angle, very slightly loosened the banjo bolts and rotated the line just a bit.  On the '16 there is a smaller wire end for the TBW so you don't have to take the plug end off the harness.  He bought the two smaller cable extensions and it was all good.

He also bought the urethane bar clamp bushing s as they are highly recommended on higher bars over the original rubber mounts that wear out with the added leverage of the taller bars.

So I'm thinking 10" or 12".

On 10" or 12" do I have to get new clutch/brake lines or can they be rerouted a bit to fit?  Will I need to do the control wire extensions as well as the TBW?

Just thought I'd get the skinny before I buy bars and go for it.

Any ideas on grip angles?  I've seen some bars that say they have a 42 degree grip angle.  It seems like the originals are quite straight in the grip angle department.  Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance guys.

[OBB]

I had put 13" Wild Ones Chubbys on my '11 I had before I traded it in. Used all the stock lines.

[Twolanerider]

Dan, at least consider the Wild1 10.5" bars.  WO515 is their part number.  That bar has been on my old Road Glide for what has to be close to 85 years now.  Wrist angle, height and what you can do with pullback because of the height make them super comfortable.

[Dan_Lockwood]

OBB, thanks.

I think then the lines, clutch and brake, will be re-usable.  Did you have to do anything with the wiring from the two hand controls?  I'm thinking the TBW will be okay as from what I've seen there fold the harness over for a bit of extra length.

Don,

I was thinking in the 10" to 12" range and the WO515 sound like they would be of interest to me.

I'll start doing some research on them.

Thanks again to both for your replies

Have a great afternoon.

[Twolanerider]

OBB, thanks.

I think then the lines, clutch and brake, will be re-usable.  Did you have to do anything with the wiring from the two hand controls?  I'm thinking the TBW will be okay as from what I've seen there fold the harness over for a bit of extra length.

Don,

I was thinking in the 10" to 12" range and the WO515 sound like they would be of interest to me.

I'll start doing some research on them.

Thanks again to both for your replies

Have a great afternoon.

If your bar change isn't something your doing immediately perhaps we can manage a meet-in-the-middle of our own some time this summer or fall.  If so you can spend some time on my old Road Glide to feel the bars first hand.

[Dan_Lockwood]

If your bar change isn't something your doing immediately perhaps we can manage a meet-in-the-middle of our own some time this summer or fall.  If so you can spend some time on my old Road Glide to feel the bars first hand.

Thanks for the offer, I'll see how my time is.

Do we get a Wild 1 CVO discount?

I went to Wild 1's website and they show a pic of the RG fairing for '08/'13 I believe.  They show the two hand controls on the upper rider's left side and it appears that the harnesses come up from the bottom and loop around quite wide.  I'm guessing that they can be re-routed a bit to give me an extra few inches.

[Dan_Lockwood]

I bit the bullet Saturday and ordered new 10.5" bars in 1.25" diameter choking down to 1" for the clamps and grips etc.

These are chrome in the same shape style as original, not squared off on the top corners.

So from what I've seen here, I can just reuse all of my wire harnesses and clutch/brake lines?

Obviously I'll need to pull my speedo/tach console off and also the front fairing.  Am I missing anything?

Do you recommend new urethane isolation mounts over the original rubber ones?  Or with just this slight rise over stock, are the rubber mounts going to be okay?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

Hope you all have a great week.

[Twolanerider]

I bit the bullet Saturday and ordered new 10.5" bars in 1.25" diameter choking down to 1" for the clamps and grips etc.

These are chrome in the same shape style as original, not squared off on the top corners.

So from what I've seen here, I can just reuse all of my wire harnesses and clutch/brake lines?

Obviously I'll need to pull my speedo/tach console off and also the front fairing.  Am I missing anything?

Do you recommend new urethane isolation mounts over the original rubber ones?  Or with just this slight rise over stock, are the rubber mounts going to be okay?

Any advise will be greatly appreciated.

Hope you all have a great week.

That's about it Dan.  Remove the instrument pod.  Getting the plugs out of the speedo and tach can be a bit fiddly.  But remove the pod and the outer fairing.  Find and disconnect all the appropriate connectors.  Make you you've got all the ties that might be doing strain relief duty.  Be really careful with the TBW.  You can damage that one pulling it in and out of the bars.

[Dan_Lockwood]

That's about it Dan.  Remove the instrument pod.  Getting the plugs out of the speedo and tach can be a bit fiddly.  But remove the pod and the outer fairing.  Find and disconnect all the appropriate connectors.  Make you you've got all the ties that might be doing strain relief duty.  Be really careful with the TBW.  You can damage that one pulling it in and out of the bars.

Thanks Don.

I have the little pin removing tools so I shouldn't have an issue with the TBW large plug, just note the positions and pop out the pins.

My neighbor's '16 came with a small 6-pin TBW plug and we didn't have to remove it to get it through the bar holes.  Went really smooth for a couple rookies.

I guess while I'm in the area of the steering head, it would be a great time to recheck my fall away count and if necessary, reset the head bearing preload.

I've got your number if I have anything come up that I can't figure out.

Have a great week.

[Twolanerider]

 

[Dan_Lockwood]

Well guys, I started my handlebar install yesterday.  70 degrees and overcast, what else is there to do, right?

Like I said, I have Wild 1 10".  They came in 10", not 10.5".  They have a more aggressive angle to the grips.  My '09 SERG seems almost like beach bars compared to these.  The overall width bar tip to bar tip is the same, but the grip angle is considerably more angled in than my old bars.

I'm here to tell you that the clutch line does not have enough slack to reach. 

I had two issues.  The one I couldn't get figured out was the wiring harness connector pin removal.  See end of this post for more details.

The front brake line was fairly easy to unclip and move around.  I threaded the brake master cylinder and handle between the steering head and right side fork tube.  It was tight, but I got it through so the line comes out on the rear of the top tree.  I can cable tie it there and it will come out the slot in the nacelle side cover just under the handlebar.

There was no way to rethread the clutch line to reach.  I ended up taking off the banjo bolt and used a 5/16" bolt/nut with rubber washers to seal the end as the master cylinder was propped up on the work bench.  I tried to go under the main frame just behind the steering head and over the rounded lower tree air deflector.  But with this option I'd have to make brackets to physically hold the line tight up to the frame and the bend was quite tight.  I joked to my buddy that too bad the main frame box tube behind the steering head didn't have cut outs or holes.  After further review I decided to take my Uni-bit and angled head air drill and I drilled a hole on the right side of the box tube .75" diameter.  I have an assortment of rubber grommets and had a pair of .75" OD with .38" ID.  So I drilled one hole on the right side just behind the fork tube when rotated to full right.  Then on the left side I drilled one just forward of the left tube at full left.  I also drilled it about .5" higher on the left side.  This let the clutch line go through on a bit of an angle.  The clutch line banjo fitting without any bolt through it fit easily through the raw .75" holes.  I then just popped in the grommets to seal the deal.

I now have more than enough clutch line to reach.  I'll take some pictures of it tonight to post tomorrow.

Now comes to the connectors on the handlebar wiring harnesses.

I've done tons of de-pinning over the years, mainly GM cars and have all the correct tools.  But on these the release pin holes are very small, just the right size for a small paperclip wire to fit in snug.

I've pushed in the wires to relieve the tang on the inside and used the paperclip to push in the tang, but no matter how hard I push, the tang will not fold back and allow the pin to come out of the connector.  Yes, I have all the rear snap caps and silicone rubber watertight plugs out and up the wires.

So what am I missing on the pin removal?

Thanks for the help in advance.

[Twolanerider]

So what am I missing on the pin removal?

Thanks for the help in advance.

Dan, I've used sewing needles on those.  The pointed tip helps as does the variety of sizes the needles come in.  Some swearing is still part of the job as those are obnoxious to disassemble.  But give the sewing needles assortment a try.

[Dan_Lockwood]

I know that some would not agree with my solution on rerouting my clutch line, but short of buying a new 4" longer line, this was what I did.

This picture shows the right side of the main frame just in front of the gas tank.  I've drilled a .75" hole in the sheet metal box tube backbone of the frame and threaded my clutch line through the hole.  I've also applied a rubber grommet to the sheet metal so there will be no chaffing of the line.



This is the left side of the main frame just in front of the gas tank.  This shortcut allowed me all the room I needed.  Originally this line was routed around the front of the steering head and then back to the bars.  There was not enough room to relocate to get what I needed.  And these are just 10.5" bars.



Pardon my messy dirty bike.  I don't have a chance to clean in that area as it's usually covered by the nacelle side covers.

When done, I will have a cable clamp on the left side of the main frame tube that will keep the clutch line from moving when turning the handle bars stop to stop.

I did find out how to get my wiring pins out of the terminal connectors.  Getting frustrated that I could not trip the locking pin side tab to release the pin from the housing, I started to look closer to the connector.  I saw that the inside flat piece with the pins coming through it was a separate piece.  They all have two small holes in the center so I took a small pair of needle nose pliers and pulled up on the piece.  it moved up a bit, but would not come all the way out.  So after it was up I took my small paperclip wire and stuck it into the release hole adjacent to the pin.  I felt it release and the wire/pin came right out.

So the moving piece inside the connector has to be lifted up to "unlock" the pin side tab so it can be released.

This is something I've never seen or had to do before.

Hope this helps others in the process.

I'll update you all as I get into the swapping of wiring harnesses later this week.