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[OakleyFreak]

anyone using this?
Im thinking of replacing the stock amp
Im not ready for a new head unit.
This looks like an easy way to upgrade to a aftermarket amp
Thoughts
HAWG WIRED WBP16

[skratch]

I was looking at doing the same thing myself.  I have a blown left fairing speaker, and the esp doesn't cover speakers.  going to replace the fairing speakers with polk 6.5s, and will use the stock amp for now.  in the future, will replace the amp with something a little more powerful, and was told that the wbp16 was the way to go to bypass the stock boom amp.

keep us (me) updated as to how things progress, any problems you have, etc....

[Para Bellum]

That looks like the one you need for deleting the stock rear amp and installing a fairing amp.

[OakleyFreak]

Yes I want to add a SS PN4.1000D  along with Focals in the fairing and in the Lowers
I would like to keep the stock head unit for now
I have gotten advise on another forum that this will work for that application

Ill keep you guys posted

[skratch]

That looks like the one you need for deleting the stock rear amp and installing a fairing amp.

what if you want to replace the stock front amp?  I thought this would complete the circuit when you unplug the front amp, and then run the speaker wires to the high level inputs and then run the outputs to the front speakers.....

or am I off base?

[CVODON]

What about just calling and asking HawgWired? vs asking and possibly taking incorrect suggestions from a forum? I have talked to them a couple times and they were very helpful.

[OakleyFreak]

What about just calling and asking HawgWired? vs asking and possibly taking incorrect suggestions from a forum? I have talked to them a couple times and they were very helpful.

Thanks Don
That is my next step

[OakleyFreak]

So this is the response from HW
So looks like my Bike a 2010 Ultra CVO will not utilize either one if these products.
Might be easier just replacing the stereo completely.



Hi Greg,
 
You will not need either of those parts.  You already have the WHK35 on your radio and the WBP16 is only for 2 channel amplifiers.
 
Here is what we tell people about removing the stock amplifier on the bike.
 
The best, cleanest thing to do is also the most work; remove the factory amplifier and it's entire harness from front to rear. If you'd rather not go that far though (and we wouldn't blame you), then at the very least you need to disconnect the entire harness from the bike completely.

Keep in mind that the stock amplifier harness uses T style connections to effectively "interrupt" the regular radio harness connections. When disconnecting the amplifier harness, you need to put any of the left over radio harness connections back together.

Rear Pods
Inside each pod you'll see 2 sets of wires coming in, one set from the regular radio harness, and one set from the amplifier harness. Disconnect the amplifier harness connectors, and re-connect the 2 left-over radio connectors back together. This reconnects the speaker pod wires to the rear outputs of the radio.

Under the Tour Pak
Here you need to disconnect the amplifier and harness connectors completely.

Under the Seat
Here you need to disconnect the power and ground connections to the amplifier harness.

Under the Fairing
Disconnect all of the connectors on the amplifier harness, and again re-connect the left-over connectors that were on either side of a T style connection. Be sure to disconnect the extra speaker wires piggy-backed on the front speakers too.

When you're all done, the amplifier harness will just be dead weight, which is why most people remove it and the amplifier completely. If you have the Tour Pak, seat, and front fairing apart, it shouldn't be too difficult to get out of there at this point. But leaving it on the bike won't hurt anything either, just be sure to secure all loose connectors when you're done to keep them from making noises and causing problems in the future.
Hope this helps,
Rich
Hawg Wired

[OakleyFreak]

So this is the response from HW
So looks like my Bike a 2010 Ultra CVO will not utilize either one if these products.
Might be easier just replacing the stereo completely.
 IN his response he highlighted the rear pod wiring.


Hi Greg,
 
You will not need either of those parts.  You already have the WHK35 on your radio and the WBP16 is only for 2 channel amplifiers.
 
Here is what we tell people about removing the stock amplifier on the bike.
 
The best, cleanest thing to do is also the most work; remove the factory amplifier and it's entire harness from front to rear. If you'd rather not go that far though (and we wouldn't blame you), then at the very least you need to disconnect the entire harness from the bike completely.

Keep in mind that the stock amplifier harness uses T style connections to effectively "interrupt" the regular radio harness connections. When disconnecting the amplifier harness, you need to put any of the left over radio harness connections back together.

Rear Pods
Inside each pod you'll see 2 sets of wires coming in, one set from the regular radio harness, and one set from the amplifier harness. Disconnect the amplifier harness connectors, and re-connect the 2 left-over radio connectors back together. This reconnects the speaker pod wires to the rear outputs of the radio.

Under the Tour Pak
Here you need to disconnect the amplifier and harness connectors completely.

Under the Seat
Here you need to disconnect the power and ground connections to the amplifier harness.

Under the Fairing
Disconnect all of the connectors on the amplifier harness, and again re-connect the left-over connectors that were on either side of a T style connection. Be sure to disconnect the extra speaker wires piggy-backed on the front speakers too.

When you're all done, the amplifier harness will just be dead weight, which is why most people remove it and the amplifier completely. If you have the Tour Pak, seat, and front fairing apart, it shouldn't be too difficult to get out of there at this point. But leaving it on the bike won't hurt anything either, just be sure to secure all loose connectors when you're done to keep them from making noises and causing problems in the future.
Hope this helps,
Rich
Hawg Wired

[Rooster]

I suggest giving Jim "hddude" on the site as he has been a HW dealer for a long time.

[OakleyFreak]

I suggest giving Jim "hddude" on the site as he has been a HW dealer for a long time.

Thanks Rooster I will Pm him and see what he thinks

[hd-dude]

Greg:
Here is a complete "how to" thread on the Hawg wired install in a 2010 CVO Ultra. In 2010 HD eliminated the overlay harness and incorporated it into the main harness of the bike so you cannot easily remove it.

See this thread:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=45609.msg688031#msg688031

Not all of it is relevant as there have been changes to the HW equipment since this install but you'll get the idea of what is involved.

[OakleyFreak]

Greg:
Here is a complete "how to" thread on the Hawg wired install in a 2010 CVO Ultra. In 2010 HD eliminated the overlay harness and incorporated it into the main harness of the bike so you cannot easily remove it.

See this thread:

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=45609.msg688031#msg688031

Not all of it is relevant as there have been changes to the HW equipment since this install but you'll get the idea of what is involved.

Perfect
Thanks for the insight

[Rooster]

Don't worry Jim, I'm not messing with any of your wiring

[BigLew]

Greg I will chime in and say that I have been using Hawg wired since 2009 on 3 different motorcycles. Between Jim and there product I have never been disappointed in the products (amp and speakers) or Jim supplying good pricing and support.

BigLew