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[hotroadking]

2011 CVO RG, about a year ago got caught on a freeway in a crawl for an hour and the clutch went away, got off the interstate, let it cool and pumped it up enough to get home, cleaned out the fluid, and replaced with clean new dot4, bled the system and it was fine.

Recently it's been acting up again, fluid levels are good, hoses look good, refilled the system with new dot4 and bled it down, no air bubbles, and it got a full firm lever.

Go for a ride and the clutch starts to go away again, first with about a 1/4 inch play, then 1/2, then you have to pump it up, after a good ride, almost no clutch at all.

Clutch plates seem to be fine, replaced throwout bearing on end of rod, spins free, new clutch hub bearings, new inner primary bearing (was getting a bearing growl from that area.

So what gives,  there are no adjustments, I backed off the banjo bolt under pressure and no air bubbles.

Left it up on the jack for a few days, not running and it's not lost any pressure, so no leaks. 

Has to be heat related?
Time to rebuild the MC?
Time to buy an Indian?

Biketoberfest is in two weeks need to resolve this...

[CVODON]

Master cylinder problem? Biketoberfest 10 days away.

[hotroadking]

Not sure that's about whats left to do...

I could pick up a rebuild kit, it builds pressure but then goes away over time riding the bike. (like a half hour).

[DesertHOG]

 This happened on my 11 RG you. It were covered until it blew up in San Francisco. I lost a clutch bearing. I had it repaired under ESP. I have no idea what the basic fundamental issue was underlined the whole thing.

[Rooster]

If that primary bearing goes again replace with the Baker unit much better than the HD one that likes to walk and howl.

[hotroadking]

If that primary bearing goes again replace with the Baker unit much better than the HD one that likes to walk and howl.

That was the plan but according to Baker they don't make one for the 6 speed, only the 5 speed
trans, I had the Baker in my 124 Softail setup to eliminate that problem.

Looks like it's the trap doorcover bearings or cover that is the problem, I can move the main shaft
in and out after removing the clutch and it's getting worse, I just hope the trap door isn't fubar, that's
what happened on my Heritage, the combined pressure from the Rivera Pro Clutch and the 124 combined to crack the inner flange holding the bearing in place,

Replaced it with a Jims Trap door, it's a problem I don't want to have. 

[Unbalanced]

Hotrod,

You may want to look at rebuilding the slave piston in the master cylinder.   Also look at the sheathing near the trap door to see if you hydraulic line is getting cooked there.  Also look at where your cable is routed around your down tubes from on the frame in front of the front cylinder.

[Unbalanced]

If you can move the mainshaft you may also want to consider the backer street door part number for chrome is 487-6

http://crustyoldsite.bakerdrivetrain.com/street-door

[hotroadking]

I found the culprit. The trap door mainshaft bearing is bad.



Transmission is out in bench now to take it apart and clean it out check everything and put in a new bearing


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[Rooster]

That was the plan but according to Baker they don't make one for the 6 speed, only the 5 speed
trans, I had the Baker in my 124 Softail setup to eliminate that problem.

Looks like it's the trap doorcover bearings or cover that is the problem, I can move the main shaft
in and out after removing the clutch and it's getting worse, I just hope the trap door isn't fubar, that's
what happened on my Heritage, the combined pressure from the Rivera Pro Clutch and the 124 combined to crack the inner flange holding the bearing in place,

Replaced it with a Jims Trap door, it's a problem I don't want to have. 

Well I have the Baker primary bearing in my 6sp 07 CUSE but glad you found that problem

[Skillet]

2011 CVO RG, about a year ago got caught on a freeway in a crawl for an hour and the clutch went away, got off the interstate, let it cool and pumped it up enough to get home, cleaned out the fluid, and replaced with clean new dot4, bled the system and it was fine.

Recently it's been acting up again, fluid levels are good, hoses look good, refilled the system with new dot4 and bled it down, no air bubbles, and it got a full firm lever.

Go for a ride and the clutch starts to go away again, first with about a 1/4 inch play, then 1/2, then you have to pump it up, after a good ride, almost no clutch at all.

Clutch plates seem to be fine, replaced throwout bearing on end of rod, spins free, new clutch hub bearings, new inner primary bearing (was getting a bearing growl from that area.

So what gives,  there are no adjustments, I backed off the banjo bolt under pressure and no air bubbles.

Left it up on the jack for a few days, not running and it's not lost any pressure, so no leaks. 

Has to be heat related?
Time to rebuild the MC?
Time to buy an Indian?

Biketoberfest is in two weeks need to resolve this...

Had the same issue. Just replaced the piston rebuild in the right side of transmission that actuates the pushrod. Changed the hydraulic line just for giggles. Problem solved.

[hotroadking]

Back together. New sns lifters and mainshaft bearing. Runs like new.




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[MadCVORG]

Hotroadking,
   What pipes are you running on your RG? Doesn't sound like a stocker. I have Rinehart 4" mufflers on my 2011, but also 10.5 pistons. Always thought this bike was noisy, until I heard your video. I can see why the dealers say, "They all sound like that."  The 110 is much more 'active' than my old Evo. I also have Fueling race lifters--thought those would quiet the valve train noise a bit, but that certainly didn't happen. I'm probably pushing 103-106dB at idle.

[hotroadking]

Fullsac header with 2 inch CVO inserts