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[jachd17]

On my bike the inner bearings, lifters and rods were replaced with the same components you are planning on using. While in there figured might as well put new tensioners in too, so they were replaced. FWIW.

[prodrag1320]

since the SE valve springs are the #1 reason for lifter roller failure,ide replace them.if your looking to bullet proof your valve train area,go with this:
S&S standard lifters
AV&V .600 beehive springs
Torrington inner bearings
.030 MLS headgaskets
as far as rocker lockers go,if you have noise from rocker shafts moving around,they`ll work OK,but theres a lot of causes of top end noise,we find it easier to use set screws for the shafts.p/rods are up to you (we prefer adjustables) and the .030 will mildly bump your compression up to a point were you will have a lot more cam choices,but still work with the 255`s you have now

[RDWEAVER]

The issue you are having with the noise is exactly what my 2010 110 engine did at 6500 miles on the clock. Mine started out slow and not all of the time. At first it was only cold then it happens when it is warm. By the time I get 21000 on the bike it happens all of the time. I have decided to take mine apart and determine what the noise in fact is before I buy the parts to fix it.

[J.D.]

You can really spend as much time and money you want chasing Twin Cam top end noise.  Regular lifter changes and the inner bearing upgrade (on top of frequent oil changes) will keep it from grenading.

[ssls6]

Just an update.  I went ahead and installed Johnson-Hylifts, Torrington inner cam bearings, S&S adjustable pushrods set at 0.063 preload, and rocker lockers.  I appreciate all the comments and will look at valve springs when I have a reason to go back in.  I will probably look at doing something with the compensator/primary chain adjuster next but for now I'm at least sleeping better.

https://youtu.be/524JLoWEdug

[mjb765]

Just an update.  I went ahead and installed Johnson-Hylifts, Torrington inner cam bearings, S&S adjustable pushrods set at 0.063 preload, and rocker lockers.  I appreciate all the comments and will look at valve springs when I have a reason to go back in.  I will probably look at doing something with the compensator/primary chain adjuster next but for now I'm at least sleeping better.

https://youtu.be/524JLoWEdug

Did it fix your noise??

[ssls6]

Yes, the soft knock during accel is gone.   Not sure which component did it.

[ssls6]

I forgot to mention that I followed the procedure to inspect the oil pump, build it back on the pinion shaft before the cam plate install, then center it with alignment tools and by spinning the rear wheel.  There was a video showing that you don't need to do this (an S&S video) and one that said you did (A harley tech school).

My oil pressure is now 1 tick higher at both idle and running down the road than it was (per the factory gauge).  I feel good about this but I mention it incase it is a sign of something I did wrong.

[HDMIKETN64]

My 2015 Road Glide Special Stage IV 103 started exhibiting similar noise when it had around 15,000 miles on it. At first it sounded like lifter noise. Sometimes it would go away after the engine warmed up. Then out of the blue it would come back. I was convinced it was a lifter problem. The dealer service manager heard it, and agreed that it was a bad lifter. They tore the motor down, inspected the lifters, camshafts, oil pump, housing and piston wrist pins. Not finding anything visually wrong, they changed the lifters. The noise was still there. After another 20,000 miles of "living" with the noise, it started burning oil at the rate of a quart ever 1,000 miles. The bike was torn back down and they found it was a bad wrist pin. It was only loose in one spot, but when it rotated to that spot it would knock pretty badly. They replaced the flywheel, crank and both rods, as an assembly, pistons, etc. The problem was finally taken care of.

[ssls6]

That's good to know....thanks.  If my soft accel knock comes back then I'll keep your post in mind.  I really think mine was valve train related but who knows for sure.

[HD Street Performance]

My 2015 Road Glide Special Stage IV 103 started exhibiting similar noise when it had around 15,000 miles on it. At first it sounded like lifter noise. Sometimes it would go away after the engine warmed up. Then out of the blue it would come back. I was convinced it was a lifter problem. The dealer service manager heard it, and agreed that it was a bad lifter. They tore the motor down, inspected the lifters, camshafts, oil pump, housing and piston wrist pins. Not finding anything visually wrong, they changed the lifters. The noise was still there. After another 20,000 miles of "living" with the noise, it started burning oil at the rate of a quart ever 1,000 miles. The bike was torn back down and they found it was a bad wrist pin. It was only loose in one spot, but when it rotated to that spot it would knock pretty badly. They replaced the flywheel, crank and both rods, as an assembly, pistons, etc. The problem was finally taken care of.

Sounds like a little bit of information creep. I suspect the real issue was a rod bearing issue. Have never seen a wrist pin with a flat spot but roller bearings can and do. After the rods pinch. A hone and new rollers is all it takes to fix them but in the dealer world that is a new crank.

[HDMIKETN64]

It was definitely the piston wrist pin on the rear cylinder. Once it was torn down, I went in and inspected it. You could feel the movement in between the pin and the rod end. The piston actually wobbled around enough that it took the black Screaming Eagle coating off the rear piston skirt.

Sounds like a little bit of information creep. I suspect the real issue was a rod bearing issue. Have never seen a wrist pin with a flat spot but roller bearings can and do. After the rods pinch. A hone and new rollers is all it takes to fix them but in the dealer world that is a new crank.

[HD Street Performance]

OK fair but that is a bad bushing and the crank assembly including the rods (in their world) is not a service item.

[HDMIKETN64]

That would be correct. The connecting rod ends are do not use bushings. They had to replace the entire flywheel, crankshaft, pistons and gaskets.

[cahdbiker]

X2 on the rocker lockers. Wish I would have done it when I first heard about them !!!CAHDBIKER

why wait on the rocker lockers?  you're already going to have the rocker covers off, and they are a quick, easy install.  made a big difference on my bike.