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[ESJ JESTER]

I've poured over the schematic on the locks, but there's one item that isn't sinking in, and that's the, I'll call it switching diode, between the two leads. I assume they flip-flop the polarity to fire the latches to and fro, but I'm not getting how that little bugger does it.

Can someone give me a lesson on how that little gizmo works?

Thanks

Chief

[ESJ JESTER]

whoops...  i should not click so quick...   Chief   the switch does the polarity reversing..   where is the gizmo  in question you are wondering about?

[Chief]

whoops...  i should not click so quick...   Chief   the switch does the polarity reversing..   where is the gizmo  in question you are wondering about?

I don't know where it is physically located, but I saw it on the schematic. It is like an "X" with the upper and lower sections colored in. The whole thing is in a circle. I took it to indicate a diode. I guess this was easier than running a common and two switched wires.

Thanks EJ.

Chief

[Twolanerider]

I've poured over the schematic on the locks, but there's one item that isn't sinking in, and that's the, I'll call it switching diode, between the two leads. I assume they flip-flop the polarity to fire the latches to and fro, but I'm not getting how that little bugger does it.

Can someone give me a lesson on how that little gizmo works?

Thanks

Chief

I'd not seen that on any of the parts lists I'd read so far.  In fact I was assuming that the lock system fed three wired to each lock assembly (lock open/lock closed/ground).  If what you're describing seeing is a bi-directional diode then there would only be two wires to each lock assembly and the relays would have a diode in them as well (can't tell that from any of the pages I've looked at).

That would make the system a little more complicated, but not terribly so.  Would mean that you couldn't share a common ground with any other ground lead that goes in the bags for lights.  Instead you'd have to use a ground that is isolated on the saddlebag side of the relay pack because it and the power lead would switch polarity to work the lock motor.

That's actually a more complicated setup then I'd assumed they'd used.  If the switch was robust enough to handle the load and the motors had separate open and close inputs the whole system could have been done without even using relays.  Even using a pair of relays to allow a light duty micro switch would have been simple though.  Seems like a lot of effort to save pulling one more wire front to rear.

Don't know how long before the lock assemblies get here.  When they do I'll look closely to see if there are alternative ways to trigger the motors.  Will decide then the easiest way to proceed.  Still doesn't sound like a big deal one way or the other.

[Chief]

I'd not seen that on any of the parts lists I'd read so far.  In fact I was assuming that the lock system fed three wired to each lock assembly (lock open/lock closed/ground).  If what you're describing seeing is a bi-directional diode then there would only be two wires to each lock assembly and the relays would have a diode in them as well (can't tell that from any of the pages I've looked at).

That would make the system a little more complicated, but not terribly so.  Would mean that you couldn't share a common ground with any other ground lead that goes in the bags for lights.  Instead you'd have to use a ground that is isolated on the saddlebag side of the relay pack because it and the power lead would switch polarity to work the lock motor.

That's actually a more complicated setup then I'd assumed they'd used.  If the switch was robust enough to handle the load and the motors had separate open and close inputs the whole system could have been done without even using relays.  Even using a pair of relays to allow a light duty micro switch would have been simple though.  Seems like a lot of effort to save pulling one more wire front to rear.

Don't know how long before the lock assemblies get here.  When they do I'll look closely to see if there are alternative ways to trigger the motors.  Will decide then the easiest way to proceed.  Still doesn't sound like a big deal one way or the other.

Their set-up is a two-wire set-up with two separate relays, feeding alternate wires with the "diode" bridging them. I think the wires are black / green and black / blue. This makes your install easier because you won't have to splice into the existing ground. It all runs off a 20A fuse, so the latches must be pretty strong to gobble up that much juice.

Chief

[Twolanerider]

whoops...  i should not click so quick...   Chief   the switch does the polarity reversing..   where is the gizmo  in question you are wondering about?

Gene, I don't see it on the page that is described "power locks circuit" either.  But on that page in fig 8-73 I just noticed that it does look like the runs back to the saddlebags are just two wires rather than three.  So either they're just not illustrating the grounds (not likely) or there is a bit more going on there.  Take a look at yours sometime and see if it's a two wire or a three wire plug that goes to the lock assembly in the bags or tour pak.  That'll tell us whether they are using a bi-directional diode in the circuit someplace and a diode in the relays.

[Chief]

Gene, I don't see it on the page that is described "power locks circuit" either.  But on that page in fig 8-73 I just noticed that it does look like the runs back to the saddlebags are just two wires rather than three.  So either they're just not illustrating the grounds (not likely) or there is a bit more going on there.  Take a look at yours sometime and see if it's a two wire or a three wire plug that goes to the lock assembly in the bags or tour pak.  That'll tell us whether they are using a bi-directional diode in the circuit someplace and a diode in the relays.

As far as the wires to the bags, and TP, they are all 2-place Deutsch minis. The place I found the relays, was on the schematic. I think it is the one for the fairing cap switches. I'm sure you'll have your answer before I can be more specific.

Chief

[Twolanerider]

As far as the wires to the bags, and TP, they are all 2-place Deutsch minis. The place I found the relays, was on the schematic. I think it is the one for the fairing cap switches. I'm sure you'll have your answer before I can be more specific.

Chief

Thanks Chief.  The one schematic I've seen suggesting only two wires to the bags you've now confirmed.  Thanks very much.  That confirms it's at least a bit more than a simple straight line circuit for each function.  Just means that instead of four legs as expected there will be five legs at each relay and somewhere in the circuit itself the bi-directional diode.  Only slightly more complicated to make a harness for.

The most important thing for me is that it still doesn't increase the total number of legs I'm running in to each saddlebag.  I'd intended to combine my spoiler lights, lighted latch cover lights and the new locks harness in to one six wire mini deutsch connector that carried one ground as common for all of it.  So it'd be run/brake/ts/open/closed/ground.

Can still do it six wires though.  Will just have to have two separate grounds as one will have to be the isolated feed for the locks.  But will only need need one other feed for the locks rather than two for distict open/close functions.  So the number of leads stays the same and I don't need to go to a larger connector hanging outside the strut.

[Chief]

Thanks Chief.  The one schematic I've seen suggesting only two wires to the bags you've now confirmed.  Thanks very much.  That confirms it's at least a bit more than a simple straight line circuit for each function.  Just means that instead of four legs as expected there will be five legs at each relay and somewhere in the circuit itself the bi-directional diode.  Only slightly more complicated to make a harness for.

The most important thing for me is that it still doesn't increase the total number of legs I'm running in to each saddlebag.  I'd intended to combine my spoiler lights, lighted latch cover lights and the new locks harness in to one six wire mini deutsch connector that carried one ground as common for all of it.  So it'd be run/brake/ts/open/closed/ground.

Can still do it six wires though.  Will just have to have two separate grounds as one will have to be the isolated feed for the locks.  But will only need need one other feed for the locks rather than two for distict open/close functions.  So the number of leads stays the same and I don't need to go to a larger connector hanging outside the strut.

Have you already done, or thinking about, turn signals in the spoilers? I think that would be trick.

Chief

[Twolanerider]

Have you already done, or thinking about, turn signals in the spoilers? I think that would be trick.

Chief

Had, then didn't.  Originally hooked them up that way.  Then changed them back for the gain of all the brake light I can get after installing the lighted saddlebag latches.  The latches throw a nice bright turn signal out on the side of the bike so left the jobs isolated between the two.

Whenever it all comes apart for this little task though no telling (yet) how I'll hook them all back up.

[SBB]

Have you already done, or thinking about, turn signals in the spoilers? I think that would be trick.

Chief

The Frontier has turn signals in the spoilers
and brake lights and running lights
only down side is that during the day they are not that bright



So if I go fast enough during the day then brightness isn't an issue.
Right

[Twolanerider]

The Frontier has turn signals in the spoilers
and brake lights and running lights
only down side is that during the day they are not that bright



So if I go fast enough during the day then brightness isn't an issue.
Right

Even though the factory has its own idea on how these should run it's fortunately a simple chore to make them behave however you want.  Without the lighted side latches yours are running how I'd set mine up too.  With the side latches it does the unfortunate thing of giving a guy more options to think about.  And we're guys, we really ought not be asked to think too much.

[Chief]

Even though the factory has its own idea on how these should run it's fortunately a simple chore to make them behave however you want.  Without the lighted side latches yours are running how I'd set mine up too.  With the side latches it does the unfortunate thing of giving a guy more options to think about.  And we're guys, we really ought not be asked to think too much.

My thoughts were to move the power for the spoilers from the accy plug under the seat and tap off of the tail light harness like the latches do. Run the wires for the latches in front of the converter so you don't get brake light in the latches, but grab the turn signal after the converter so you get run/brake and turn for the spoilers.

The harness gets more complicated, but it could be done in the ML plugs of the converter and remove the breakout for the latches.

Chief

[harlez4me]

Holy...this is getting in depth.

The locks are reverse polarity motors. You will need to run two relays. When the one relay is triggered from the switch to send 12 volts, the other relay will offer the ground...and vissa versa.
JD

[Twolanerider]

Holy...this is getting in depth.

The locks are reverse polarity motors. You will need to run two relays. When the one relay is triggered from the switch to send 12 volts, the other relay will offer the ground...and vissa versa.
JD

Yeap, when Chief (I think it was Chief) confirmed just two legs to the motors it got real clear that's what's going on.  So everything (alternating power and alternating ground) is isolated after the relay pack.  Won't be hard to do.  Moderately slick setup actually.  Still seems like they went to a lot of extra trouble up front just to make it a little simpler in the back.  Oh well, you know some bean counter somewhere figured it saved a few cents to mass produce this rather than the other couple of possible likely alternatives.