Well I spent last weekend doing my new hitch.
Saturday I spent about half the day crawling under the truck, then up top, then back under, you get the idea. Doing this alone was a chore. The gooseneck under bed center section weighed about 80# and man handling it up over the axle was chore. I had a chain through the ball hole and my engine cherry picker over the bed rail. I would pull up the slack on the chain and hook it off on the picker and then crawl back under and move it a bit and then up top to take up the slack again. When I finally got it up to the underside of the box bed, my neighbor came over and even though he only had one usable hand, he then helped with the picker jack up/down etc. Also getting to all the bolts with the exhaust still in place and reaching up from the creeper, was another chore altogether. Specially trying to get the 110'/# torque on all the grade 8 bolts.
The front cross beam is 1" x 2" bar stock. WOW that's thick and heavy. The rear cross bar was 2" x 3/8" angle, also very heavy. I didn't have to drill a hole other than in the bed. Everything fit just like it should. Measured 47.5" from the end of the box and drilled my 4" hole. The center section of the hitch fit perfectly into the hole and all the frame side brackets bolted right up without any issues. B&W did a great job on this hitch. The companion hitch was also very well made and very heavy. The top comes of with two lock pins and two trip handles. I'm guessing around 75# for the top section. But the lower main plate section probably goes around 125# or more. I know that I can lift it up out of the bed and move it, but I would not want to do it everyday without an overhead lift of some sort.
Do you guys remove your hitches when on the road camping? I guess that would depend on if you needed your box to haul more than planks/boards, no plywood or drywall would fit with it in the bed. Just wondering. I've got so many questions that my mind at night just runs and I can't get to sleep. I guess it's not all that bad of a thing to keep me awake.

So anyway, after a 4" hole cut in the bed floor and then four 1/2" holes for the safety chain spring loaded u-bolts, it was finally in. Now I have a smooth box floor when the ball is flipped over or removed.

Next on Sunday came the 20k companion hitch. I had to flip the post to their #2 position because I could not even get close to being in front of the pin centerline to the axle centerline. Flipping it to #2 got me 4" forward. Then I had to swap the upright mounts a couple times to where it is now. The best I can measure, I'm around 2" in front of my axle centerline. From what I've read, anywhere from 2" to 6" could be used, but closer to the 2" would be best. That's where I think I am, hopefully.


So with the hitch out all I'll have are the two rounded tops of the u-bolts.

You can see from the box pictures, this truck has been USED... A month ago Linda and I were tearing down our original cedar deck and had to get rid of all the old lumber. We started carrying the lumber around to the truck and I told her that if this were a new truck, I would NOT throw this stuff in there, but as long as it's already dented and beat up, no problems adding a few of my own to make it mine. It's really not bad, just dented on the wheel wheels in many places. The outside of the truck and interior are all really good, so that's all that matters.
So for around $1500, I'm good to go now. I'm at around 56.5" at the top of the hitch and my 5th wheel sitting fairly level in the dealer's lot has a pin box height of 53". So figuring about a 3" drop in the rearend when loaded, I "should" be close. I think they still have some pin box adjustments if needed at hook up.
Stay tuned for part 2