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[ultrafxr]

From his avatar it looks like a 2007 to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[longlast]

Thanks Jerry,

The bike's an 07 Ultra Classic,  añd the TB is by wire with 3 or 4 electronic units on it. But there is a electronic unit on the left side (looking straight on to it) that the throttle plate shaft goes into. So it maybe that unit malfunctioning or not getting a command. I'll look into seeing if there's an oms check that can be carried out on it. Cheers


There is no idle air control valve you mentioned, only the (, low idle speed control adjuster that opens the plate) this is on the right side of the TB there's no other manual adjuster. I did do a check on that shaft for any sort of free play it was all snug.
You're right about there being no mention of the siad adjuster in the manual that I could see

I was out today and had no issues it ran good started good run well. No codes.
Like you said I not going to worry much about it. Have fun in the sun and play with it another day.

I'm learning more and more the input is such a great help 

[grc]

I don't know why I keep thinking you have a later model.  I'll eventually get it right.

The 2007 TB still uses the old Idle Air Control unit (IAC), see the attached sketch.  The part on the left end of the throttle shaft is the TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor.  Either of those parts can cause the issue you had with stalling.

Jerry

[Twolanerider]

I don't know why I keep thinking you have a later model.  I'll eventually get it right.

The 2007 TB still uses the old Idle Air Control unit (IAC), see the attached sketch.  The part on the left end of the throttle shaft is the TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor.  Either of those parts can cause the issue you had with stalling.

Jerry

I was thinking newer bike too Jerry.  Not sure where it was coming from. 

Two things to consider then if you deal with the problem more.  The IAC motors do have a potential service option that may not accomplish anything but is easy to do and free to try.  Spray the operating end of it with carburetor cleaner.  Once in a great while it helps.  A quick spray on mine is just part of the annual spring service.

Have also occasionally ran in to leaks around the intake air temp sensor.  Little gasket failed.  Not often but occasionally enough to always think about it.  Worth making sure the screws are tight then with the engine running check it out. 

[longlast]

I don't know why I keep thinking you have a later model.  I'll eventually get it right.

The 2007 TB still uses the old Idle Air Control unit (IAC), see the attached sketch.  The part on the left end of the throttle shaft is the TPS, or Throttle Position Sensor.  Either of those parts can cause the issue you had with stalling.

Jerry

Maybe it's because these faults are something that are more commen on later bikes and should have already been sorted out on my old thumper 


That's the one, in the diagram the front bottom right side in the corner is the adjuster. The IAC I had of and leaned also.
The TP sensor on the left could be the trouble maker, because all I've done is manually posioned it from completely closing. Now it seems to stay running.
I think I'll leave it for the weekend then next week I'll set it back and see if there is a change.
Then I'll have a point of origin to work from.

[longlast]

I was thinking newer bike too Jerry.  Not sure where it was coming from. 

Two things to consider then if you deal with the problem more.  The IAC motors do have a potential service option that may not accomplish anything but is easy to do and free to try.  Spray the operating end of it with carburetor cleaner.  Once in a great while it helps.  A quick spray on mine is just part of the annual spring service.

Have also occasionally ran in to leaks around the intake air temp sensor.  Little gasket failed.  Not often but occasionally enough to always think about it.  Worth making sure the screws are tight then with the engine running check it out.

I've got a bottle of propane I'll be doing a leaky leak test on Friday.

Cheers Don

[Twolanerider]

Maybe it's because these faults are something that are more commen on later bikes and should have already been sorted out on my old thumper 


That's the one, in the diagram the front bottom right side in the corner is the adjuster. The IAC I had of and leaned also.
The TP sensor on the left could be the trouble maker, because all I've done is manually posioned it from completely closing. Now it seems to stay running.
I think I'll leave it for the weekend then next week I'll set it back and see if there is a change.
Then I'll have a point of origin to work from.

If you've had the throttle position sensor off checking its calibration (multi-meter) is worth thinking about.  Without the intent of further confusing things don't want to dismiss or disregard other potential issues.  Occasional stalling or cutting out is also the early sign of a fuel filter or fuel regulator or a perforated fuel line inside the tank.  Just other things to consider should the issue recur.

[ultrafxr]

I've got a bottle of propane I'll be doing a leaky leak test on Friday.

Cheers Don

On my '07 I had the dealer change the lifters to S&S and the cam bearings to the Torrington style full complement.  After the work the motor stalled occassionally and sometimes idled high.  Two opposite extremes and eventually the stalling became more prominent.  After chasing many parts, IAC and sensors another tech finally diagnosed a small (small according to him) intake leak that was the source of all the problems.  Good luck in getting yours sorted.

[longlast]

If you've had the throttle position sensor off checking its calibration (multi-meter) is worth thinking about.  Without the intent of further confusing things don't want to dismiss or disregard other potential issues.  Occasional stalling or cutting out is also the early sign of a fuel filter or fuel regulator or a perforated fuel line inside the tank.  Just other things to consider should the issue recur.

If it does persist Don, I'm like a mad dog with a dirty bone it may get done straight away or I'll check every component that's been mentioned in this thread and then some but I will find the fault. I am leaning more towards that TP sensor.

NO I didn't do a (multi-meter)check on the TPS for calibration. That will be in bucket  check list. If it does check out good then I'll  have to check if it's receiving in order to function.

At the beginning before the motor work I've got to admit I was some what a little intimidated by the electronics, but now I'm understanding the workings of it all a lot better now.  The help from every one your self included  has been invaluable.

[longlast]

On my '07 I had the dealer change the lifters to S&S and the cam bearings to the Torrington style full complement.  After the work the motor stalled occassionally and sometimes idled high.  Two opposite extremes and eventually the stalling became more prominent.  After chasing many parts, IAC and sensors another tech finally diagnosed a small (small according to him) intake leak that was the source of all the problems.  Good luck in getting yours sorted.

You know it could be just that simple. Sometimes it's the simplest thing that can be over looked to easily.   

[Twolanerider]

You know it could be just that simple. Sometimes it's the simplest thing that can be over looked to easily.   

Personally I've decided it's fixed  .

[longlast]

Your absolutely right.

                          Time to get down to more serious things in hand     

[Twolanerider]

Your absolutely right.

                          Time to get down to more serious things in hand     

Damn right.   4th of July!!  The day we celebrate our independence from bad running motorcycles! 

Vrooom, freaking, VROOM !! 

[longlast]

Digging back into it again.
Was out today and it seems like the exhaust popping is increasing. It pops now when I shift gears I've now removed the stage 1 unit from the throttle body. I pulled the plug on the TPS and tested I got a 5v and a 1v across post that's on the input end. So I'm happy that's putting out from the ECM

I checked up with the fuel map on the fuelpak unit on the bike. Then  checked the throttle positioning with the throttle closed I had a number of 2 it should have been "0". Then rolling the throttle grip to full open the number was 86 should read 99 at full open. So as I watched the TPS input shaft from the TB turning and the butterfly opening the numbers where counting. So now I know the units working.

I then recalibrated the fuelpak to the numbers off the air fuel management map throttle position is now set at "0" closed and "99" at full open. The mapping is of V&H

Out for another test run tomorrow and see if it's better or if I've really pulled a Bullard  Might not even get out of the drive