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[Ironhorse]

Hey IronHorse, could you please clarify if your running with the o2 sensors? Your comment about the autotune set for 13.1 should be shaded, and autotune, o2 sensors detected should have been noted, unless you are just running the zippers ECM without them. Lemme know I can help

Rhino (fastestjesterinonemoreday)

Rhino,

I am running the Auto-Tune T-max with the two O2 sensors. It's the full Zippers kit, ECM, TB and air cleaner. I think maybe I have EVERYTHING all wrong. When I changed the settings from 13.1 to 13.8, did I just go from 13 parts air and 1 part fuel, to 13 parts air and 8 parts fuel, there by increasing fuel and losing mpgs?

Mark

[Hoist!]

Rhino,

I am running the Auto-Tune T-max with the two O2 sensors. It's the full Zippers kit, ECM, TB and air cleaner. I think maybe I have EVERYTHING all wrong. When I changed the settings from 13.1 to 13.8, did I just go from 13 parts air and 1 part fuel, to 13 parts air and 8 parts fuel, there by increasing fuel and losing mpgs?

Mark

IH, I don't know the AT but 13,8 is 13,8 parts of air. It's always Parts of Air to Parts of fuel, with fuel being one. Hoist!

[Unbalanced]

Hoist,

The Wego II is a product made by Daytona Twin Tec the originator for closed loop AFR Systems.   They are based in Daytona Beach off Beville Road.

Problem with using it right now is the same problem people with the T-Max are having with the bungs.  The rinehart bungs on the 07's need to be moved for the front cylinder.   Once that happens you upload your map for SERT or PC and then run it for up to an hour with the scan tool and it will tell you what changes to make to your maps to get the target A/F desired.

[Hoist!]

Hoist,

The Wego II is a product made by Daytona Twin Tec the originator for closed loop AFR Systems.   They are based in Daytona Beach off Beville Road.

Problem with using it right now is the same problem people with the T-Max are having with the bungs.  The rinehart bungs on the 07's need to be moved for the front cylinder.   Once that happens you upload your map for SERT or PC and then run it for up to an hour with the scan tool and it will tell you what changes to make to your maps to get the target A/F desired.

Harry, can it share the O2 sensor from the AT? Hoist!

[Rhino]

Nope,  13.1 or 13.8, it is only an air ratio you can adjust. It is always to 1 for fuel. so 13.1 is richer than 13.8.

Best also check out your software, look in closed loop module and make sure you have closed loop selected.  If you are changin fuel across the board, you must have AFR override selected. Not neccessary, since auto tune give you all the adjustables for idle, cruising and high end, on each of the 32 different maps available. The base map provided from Zippers is pretty close, but it is a compromise between fuel economy and power.  Nice thing is you can change high end fuel, and maintain the good economy at the lower ends. Again, if you have the o2 sensors, make sure autotune, close dloop is enabled.

They just released a comprehensive manual which gives a bunch more detail too.

Rhino etc.

[Ironhorse]

IH, I don't know the AT but 13,8 is 13,8 parts of air. It's always Parts of Air to Parts of fuel, with fuel being one. Hoist!

That's what I thought. Maybe I'm not a dimwitted after all.
So,.....changing my T-MAX afr from 13.1 to 13.8 just added .7 more parts of air to the existing fuel, thereby leaning it.




Right?

[Unbalanced]

When you buy the WEGO II it comes with the same VW wide band sensors made by bosch I think it is.  So no they couldnt share it you would use one product or the other, but the same bungs.   WEGO using a Deutsch Connector pinned out for their product while I am sure T-Max has it pinned out for its setup.

Same Wide Band Sensor though.   I would setup a deutsch connector for pins 1 / 4 on the accessory plug under the seat infront of the tank and use that for the WEGO if it were me nice and clean and easy to access.

[Unbalanced]

Yes Hoist you leaned it out a bit more

[Rhino]

Just to make things a bit more complicated, it is not AFR always that gives the best indicator.  If you can look at the exhaust temperature, and the CO2, you can also find out which AFR runs best in your machine.   Auto tuners electronics wizards have used this testing for a few years now. Problem is to find one that can measure the gases in PPM's, and tune to that, then adjust the AFR.  Or, borrow a dyno, and run the bike at cruise with cruisecontrol, and do live tuning. It's simple with the ZIppers, as long as the dyno has a inertial brake sys on it.   But the bottom line is are you going for best performance on the street with what the stock setup has?  I think so, becsue the current setup witll only do so much. And I want to find out, with the stock setup I have, what works the best for tuning, BEFORE I add a cam, compression and headwork for flo.  

Rhino

[Rhino]

That's what I thought. Maybe I'm not a dimwitted after all.
So,.....changing my T-MAX afr from 13.1 to 13.8 just added .7 more parts of air to the existing fuel, thereby leaning it.




Right?

That's right, but check to make sure you did not do the AFR override in the closed loop page.

Rhino

[hard10]

Sounds like AJ is going to have to spend some more money on that perty motosickle he has.

I'm planning the bank robbery now.

I have your new signature all picked out, it should say at least I beat AJ
Rhino (FastestJester w caveat)
Rhino (fastestjesterinonemoreday)



Chipster, after the robbery, let's get with your boys and put some ponies in my 110. Then we'll see who can run!

[Twolanerider]

Rhino,

I am running the Auto-Tune T-max with the two O2 sensors. It's the full Zippers kit, ECM, TB and air cleaner. I think maybe I have EVERYTHING all wrong. When I changed the settings from 13.1 to 13.8, did I just go from 13 parts air and 1 part fuel, to 13 parts air and 8 parts fuel, there by increasing fuel and losing mpgs?

Mark

IH, you're ok.  You're just not seeing the full ratio.  Think of it like this:

13.1:1 or 13.8:1  The first half of the ratio is air and the second is fuel.

[Ironhorse]

IH, you're ok.  You're just not seeing the full ratio.  Think of it like this:

13.1:1 or 13.8:1  The first half of the ratio is air and the second is fuel.

.....And since the fuel stays the same at 1 all I can do is either add more air or take away air.

[Chief]

It's called AFR, meaning Air Fuel Ratio, stated as 13.1:1 for example. Therefore the higher the first number the more air, or leaner. The lower the ratio, the richer. You should be a little richer at idle and WFO than the cruising range. The expert tuners here can guide you better on the AFR's at various RPM's, but the bottom and top should be richer than the middle. Hoist!

Is that something like a nice rack, ample badonkadonk and a trim waiste?

Honky Tonk Badonkadonk

Chief

[Chief]

If you guys wanna play around and have some real fun, get their Wego II AFR Monitor System http://www.zippersperformance.com/catalogue/showproduct.asp?cat=588&prod=2129 Then you'll really know what's going on. Hoist!

I'm using the same type of system, but I'm using the Daytona Sensors Twin-Scan II+ with WEGO IID. It gives me the info I need for tuning the PC.

Twin Scan II+ Tuning Aid for Screamin Eagle® Race Tuner (SERT) and Dynojet Power Commander

Chuck

<EDIT> I just clicked on your link, and that is actually the original 1 channel Daytona system. The CD even says Twin-Tec on it. The system I am using is their two-channel (2 WB O2 sensors) so I can measure both cylinders at once.(/EDIT>