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[miker]

Spyder I have been taking on the rear cylinder, left side near the plug boot, I'll take 3-5 readings aroound the ara for average.

[spydglide]

I've been shooting the fin area away from the plugs since they are obviously the hottest area.....that way you can shoot the temp. while the motor is running or immediately right after shut down and it is about the same.  It reallly varies a lot depending on where the temp. is measured.  Of course, it's too hot everywhere!  har!  spyder

[miker]

What temps do you see there?  Can you check oil temp too?
Miker

[spydglide]

What temps do you see there?  Can you check oil temp too?
Miker

Hey Miker, can't tell you on my screamin eagle, but on the EVO, it's running around 230 on the rear cyl.  I'm still considering buying one of HD's temp/oil level gauges.......keep reading different opinions on it.  spyder

[Senshi]

Greetings,
I like a lot of us have had my share of problems with my '07 SEUC. Leaky rear gasket @ 5,000 miles or so which in a couple of hundred miles quickly caused many other problems.
Burned up the 110 motor at 5,500 miles. (Not due to lack of oil, but due to heat) Harley would not warranty but did give me a new "customer complimentary" motor and labor to install. Hmmm.

I am up around 800 miles on new motor and will be bringing in to dealer for 1,000 mile fluid change and check up. It's still freakin' burning my brides and my legs and it's running real hot and sluggish. So I was going to do some of the things I have read on this site - SERT, High Flow AC Filter, Dyno (I already had some Rush slip ons, but they blued badly when engine burned up, HD would not replace them and I'm back with my stock FLHTCUSE pipes.) 
Anyway, I have seen some good writtings and suggestions from this site and was wondering if anyone had comments on other things I should do to try and correct? (gonna have to sell my house to get this new $35k bike running right, geez!)   
Also, any comments on this site below and the suggestions?

Thanks for the help amigos! 


http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd2007HD_heat_00.htm


Nightrider.com
Hot Exhaust Fix (LC-1) We are planning for June 1, 2007 availability of the Hot Exhaust Fix. Price has been set at $199.99.
Here is a first look at the electronic control module used for the Nightrider fix for the hot exhaust / hot engine temperatures found in the 2007 HD bikes. The size of the main electronics module is 3.5"Lx1.5"Wx0.9"D and is intended to mount under the fuel tank or the seat of the bike.

 
The upgrade will consist of the LC-1 electronic module, one WBO2 sensor, one blocking plate for the second OEM NBO2 sensor, programming instructions for the LC-1, and detailed installation instructions to connect the upgrade to your motorcycle.

No ECU upgrades or ECU programming required for HD/SE Stage 1 and Stage 2 upgraded engines. The upgrade is 100% compatible with any of the HD or SE ECU downloads, and is compatible with SE Race Tuner for highly modified bikes.  Contact us for more information.

 
 There is also some info on:
HD 110CID Engine/Piston Issues
 
Thanks again...


 

[Rhino]

Glad to see you are back to stock pipes. Aftermarket free flowers are not good unless a SERT was part of that package.  The heat is not uncontrollable if you make an investment, but in the interim, the engine heat shields, those plastic diverters, I can't recall what they are really called, help a lot so I have heard. Have the dealer also engage parade mode, or EITMS, shuts off a cylinder when stopped and hot.  These in my mond are bandaids.

In my opinion, going with True Duals, a large open air filter will let the motor breathe  better. But the heat is generated more so due to the high idle that the engine requires, and unless you go to a SERT, is is not adjustable to maintain. Also, if you are closing in on 100-1200 rpm at idle, the AFR changes to a lean 14.7. That makes it hotter too.   

Finally, my opinion is to make the investment in a Zippers Thundermax with Closed loop Module.  It totally replaces the Harley ECM and gives total control of your engine the way it is supposed to be. It is not cheap.  You can make your motor idle nicely at 825-850RPM, and run cooler across the board with a proper average AFR of 12.5 to 13.5.   

There is also the PowerCommander, some like it a lot, not as expensive, but will add fuel. It tacks on to the Harley ECM.  Since the introduction of the 07 models, and now the 08's, I don't see Harley continuing on any path themselves to aleviate the 'heat problem' due to their EPA agenda.

There are a lot of devices, some ver very good, and some, no way.  SERT, PC and TMAX are the only ones you should consider in MHO.  SERT if you know tuning, PC if you are a littel familiar with tuning, and TMAX, well, they have canned maps, makes it relatively easy as a plug in unit. The closed loop system, uses 'bungs' on the pipes that directly replace the ones from stock.  It runs in a closed loop mode all the time, and with the Autotune feature, nails the AFR's perfectly, as was designed in the maps.  Hope this helps.

Rhino

Greetings,
I like a lot of us have had my share of problems with my '07 SEUC. Leaky rear gasket @ 5,000 miles or so which in a couple of hundred miles quickly caused many other problems.
Burned up the 110 motor at 5,500 miles. (Not due to lack of oil, but due to heat) Harley would not warranty but did give me a new "customer complimentary" motor and labor to install. Hmmm.

I am up around 800 miles on new motor and will be bringing in to dealer for 1,000 mile fluid change and check up. It's still freakin' burning my brides and my legs and it's running real hot and sluggish. So I was going to do some of the things I have read on this site - SERT, High Flow AC Filter, Dyno (I already had some Rush slip ons, but they blued badly when engine burned up, HD would not replace them and I'm back with my stock FLHTCUSE pipes.) 
 

[miker]

I am closing in on the 5k magic number...The bike rolled off the floor with hi-flo ac, se muffs and the "flash".  I did not like how it ran, so at around 800 miles I went to a Rinehart 2-1(for some extra exhaust scavenging) sert and tune.  I instructed the tuner to drop the afr to lowest attainable with sert around 13.7, please correct me if I am wrong.  The plugs look ok but I usually change them at 5k out of habit.  The dyno showed around 115 ft/lbs at 96 hp, it pulls well.

Metal temps have not exceeded 380-390 measure at my point and I don't know how accurate the dipstick thing is but I figues it is all I got within reason.  I was glad to see the sub 240 oil temps today after a hard 2 up ride and long idle.  Time will tell.  My tc88 ran similar temps as well with head metal around 340, oil 240.  Most of the data was at ambient temps in the 80-90F area.  Best of luck to all of us....

Miker

[mr_magoo]

Well hit a new high temp yesterday of 315 thought my leg was on fire.  HD has contacted the dealer for more info and I have mentioned the lemon law, might know something this afternoon but dought they will act fast.

[miker]

Well hit a new high temp yesterday of 315 thought my leg was on fire.  HD has contacted the dealer for more info and I have mentioned the lemon law, might know something this afternoon but dought they will act fast.

Is that the oil temperature?!

Miker

[Unbalanced]

I am closing in on the 5k magic number...The bike rolled off the floor with hi-flo ac, se muffs and the "flash".  I did not like how it ran, so at around 800 miles I went to a Rinehart 2-1(for some extra exhaust scavenging) sert and tune.  I instructed the tuner to drop the afr to lowest attainable with sert around 13.7, please correct me if I am wrong.  The plugs look ok but I usually change them at 5k out of habit.  The dyno showed around 115 ft/lbs at 96 hp, it pulls well.

Metal temps have not exceeded 380-390 measure at my point and I don't know how accurate the dipstick thing is but I figues it is all I got within reason.  I was glad to see the sub 240 oil temps today after a hard 2 up ride and long idle.  Time will tell.  My tc88 ran similar temps as well with head metal around 340, oil 240.  Most of the data was at ambient temps in the 80-90F area.  Best of luck to all of us....

Miker

Miker,

Not sure what you mean by lowest attainable.    Are you talking in closed loop bias mode or just overal A/F attainment.

14-14.2 is about the lowest you will get in closed loop mode.  798 on the table.
As far as a map you can tinker with yourself sky is the limit only limited by the injector.   You could run 12.5 to 1 all day long hate the gas mileage and fouling of the plugs, but you could do it.

-harry

[miker]

Miker,

Not sure what you mean by lowest attainable.    Are you talking in closed loop bias mode or just overal A/F attainment.

14-14.2 is about the lowest you will get in closed loop mode.  798 on the table.
As far as a map you can tinker with yourself sky is the limit only limited by the injector.   You could run 12.5 to 1 all day long hate the gas mileage and fouling of the plugs, but you could do it.

-harry

Hey Harry.  I thought that was an overall afr number attainable thought the sert, closed loop..I don't know what the lads at BR did.

I attached my sheet from BR...I called them for my map and they said they "lost" the computer in Leesburg(?, wtf?)

I am getting around 36-40 mpg, plugs are ever so slightly sooty, not nearly as bad as some of my old cranky beeatches from them past.  240 oil, 380 metal temp, rear cylinder.  I have not mucked with the map as I don't have a pc (apple head), yet.  I think I am getting a little leak because I have some slight decel popping where when fresh from Stormy it ran great.  No biggie.  Any and all comments appreciated.

Miker

[vagabond6542]

Greetings,
I like a lot of us have had my share of problems with my '07 SEUC. Leaky rear gasket @ 5,000 miles or so which in a couple of hundred miles quickly caused many other problems.
Burned up the 110 motor at 5,500 miles. (Not due to lack of oil, but due to heat) Harley would not warranty but did give me a new "customer complimentary" motor and labor to install. Hmmm.

I am up around 800 miles on new motor and will be bringing in to dealer for 1,000 mile fluid change and check up. It's still freakin' burning my brides and my legs and it's running real hot and sluggish. So I was going to do some of the things I have read on this site - SERT, High Flow AC Filter, Dyno (I already had some Rush slip ons, but they blued badly when engine burned up, HD would not replace them and I'm back with my stock FLHTCUSE pipes.) 
Anyway, I have seen some good writtings and suggestions from this site and was wondering if anyone had comments on other things I should do to try and correct? (gonna have to sell my house to get this new $35k bike running right, geez!)   
Also, any comments on this site below and the suggestions?

Thanks for the help amigos! 


http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd2007HD_heat_00.htm


Nightrider.com
Hot Exhaust Fix (LC-1) We are planning for June 1, 2007 availability of the Hot Exhaust Fix. Price has been set at $199.99.
Here is a first look at the electronic control module used for the Nightrider fix for the hot exhaust / hot engine temperatures found in the 2007 HD bikes. The size of the main electronics module is 3.5"Lx1.5"Wx0.9"D and is intended to mount under the fuel tank or the seat of the bike.

 
The upgrade will consist of the LC-1 electronic module, one WBO2 sensor, one blocking plate for the second OEM NBO2 sensor, programming instructions for the LC-1, and detailed installation instructions to connect the upgrade to your motorcycle.

No ECU upgrades or ECU programming required for HD/SE Stage 1 and Stage 2 upgraded engines. The upgrade is 100% compatible with any of the HD or SE ECU downloads, and is compatible with SE Race Tuner for highly modified bikes.  Contact us for more information.

 
 There is also some info on:
HD 110CID Engine/Piston Issues
 
Thanks again...


 

I guess I can add my two cents. Mileage is now 6140 and the "Smurf" doesn't sound healthy.
The incident:
After travelling approxitmately 130 miles, we hit a road contruction.  Both bikes, after a little while started to display pinging and heat. The Jester R/B was a lot better off then the Jester "Smurf". The former was running Rineharts and a SERT, and the latter was totally stock. The stock one had to be shut down due to smoke rising off the engine and the oil temp went to 310 deg F. To end the story, after another 530 miles for the trip and home, the lower end sounded like a thrashing machine. My point, if Mo-Co had design this better, it would handled the road construction starts and stops. Case in point, there was an "07" V-Star 1300 Tourer in the group. My S/O didn't have a single problem.

[mr_magoo]

Is that the oil temperature?!

Miker

Yes as measured at the oil bag.  There must be a reason that the gauge goes to 350 degrees.  The way it's going I just might find out.

[bbrown]

TtHIS IS A REALLY INTERESTING THREAD

mY 103 WAS SO HOT IN STURGIS ALMOST CHANGED MY NAME TO HOTHEAD

[spydglide]

TtHIS IS A REALLY INTERESTING THREAD

mY 103 WAS SO HOT IN STURGIS ALMOST CHANGED MY NAME TO HOTHEAD

Hey bbrown, I've got a colbalt '04 like yours and it's so hot I've parked it all summer......waiting for the fall to learn to ride it again.  har!  spyder