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[pooj10]

Could use some help. I installed Lyndall 11.8 inch Front Bow Tie Rotors (Black) and Zplus pads when I installed my GP suspension front fork cartridges. I made surface the mounting surface and bolt holes were clean the rotor was flush and tightened the bolts to 20 lb/ft per instructions. After break in several 20 to 0 mph stops I noticed a vibration at slow speeds when slow speed braking. They sent me out new pads, I cleaned the rotors, calipers, checked the pistons for free movement, bleed the calipers with the mighty vac. There is no noise but there is serious brake fade in high speed braking and you can really smell the brakes. Something does not look right with how much pad is engaged with the rotor if you see the amount of dark black band near the center carrier. Does anyone have any experience with these Lyndall rotors? I am at a loss and Lyndall is telling me take the bike to a bike shop 2.5 hours away to have them look at it.

[VRODDAVE]

I don’t own the rotors you have, but I have installed probably 20 sets of Lyndall pads and have had some pretty severe brake fade during break in  . One set if you did three consecutive stops from say 40 miles an hour I would have no breaks whatsoever until they cooled down.    And yes I have had them replaced by Lyndall from time to time.  But They all got better over time, some even before the replacements arrived. I kind of get the impression that the compounds used very sometimes and cook during the break in. And then they’re fine.  Smell and dust are gone.   I still like Lyndall the best. 

Just my 2cents worth

[pooj10]

Thanks for the reply, I agree with you that Lyndall is the best pad. I ran both the Zplus and  Gold plus on stock rotors on my 2015 cvo and had no issue what so ever after break in on the pads. For some reason with this combination after a couple hundred miles nothing has changed.  I opted to swap rotors to black out the bike and with a lifetime warranty and the weight reduction I figured it made good sense. The CEO Paul actually called me today and we had a good discussion. They are going to take the pads and rotors back and inspect and see what might be going on, he even offered to face time me and go through what they find. That is really impressive in my opinion! Much better option than having to go down to shop 2.5hrs away in our current state of lockdown. I hope we can get the issue figured out cause I love the blacked out look and just want to maintain the stopping power.

[Bruce2018cvorg]

I certainly hope you are able to get that sorted.  I have the same rotors exactly and their most aggressive pads to install on my 2018 CVO Road Glide special.  I’m very interested how you make out with Lyndall support.  Sure hope they stand behind their product as they are very expensive. 

Side note... I warped 2 sets of factory rotors in 500 miles.  Harley’s rotors that were fitted to my bike (stock) were not strong enough.  I’m pretty sure I was permanently deflecting the carrier that the floating rotor was mounted to. 

[pooj10]

The pads, rotors, and bolts will be back in Lyndall’s hands on Thursday.  I hope they figure it out.

I had not warped the Harley rotors as I got rid of the oem pads as soon as I bought  the bike. I reinstalled the oem rotors and gold plus pads Sunday and no issues at all.

[Bruce2018cvorg]

Has to be their rotor then...  Hummmmm.  I have confidence they’ll figure it out, please post your findings.  As mentioned previously I have the same combination. 

Putting the Ohlins 30 Nix cartridges into the front end today and will test my brakes.  I’ll report back when I have results.

[Bruce2018cvorg]

Was out last night for a very short run to test both the Ohlins Nix30 front end and the Lyndall bow tie rotors with z plus pads.  Handful of slow stop then some quicker ones, finally ran 6 - 8 second intervals with slight brake pressure at 50 kph to get them good and warm with breaks in between.  Boy do they give off an odour at the start, and major squealing as the bike approaches a stop.  Both soon disappeared...  might be a little soon to tell but that combo stops my Big Pig way better than stock.  Sure hope brake fade doesn’t set in as described above because I’m liking what I see so far.  1000# Pig with no brakes would not be what I consider a “good time”.  From what I have read, heat cycling pads is extremely important with a 24 hr cool / cure time is required? That I believe is a general comment for most pads, they require heat to cure the abrasive pad compound.  Something was sure happening with the Lyndall hardware bases on the smell!

Stay safe all!

Peace out.

[pooj10]

Update: Paul called me Thursday afternoon as soon as they inspected the rotors. The left carrier had a .006 in high spot in it. essentially the right caliper and pads were doing all the work that is why the pads were getting so hot and stinking then fading. The lack of flatness in the carrier was causing insufficient pad to rotor contact and also causing the slight vibration I was noticing as well at slow speed braking. They shipped out quality checked new components on Friday so hope to get everything swapped out next weekend including the rear rotor as well.

By the way I agree that honking noise is really obnoxious (like a flock of geese) until the pad material transfers to the rotors, then it just disappears.

On a separate note did you just have to remove the valve at the end of the fork tube for the 30mm Ohlins or did you have to remove some off the top as well. Howard sold me on the GP suspension 25mm. I just hit my 500 miles on the ohlins rears and GP cartridges. I have some fine tuning to do, but am extremely happy. The bike is just glued to the road at high speeds in the corners.

[Bruce2018cvorg]

Yes to install the 30mm cartridges you have to remove the stock valving out of the bottom as well as remove 0.150” from the top.  This allows for full thread engagement of the ohlins end cap.  I did some dimensional analysis prior to shortening them and Howard was 100% correct, with the top end shortened there was virtually full thread engagement.

Was out again Saturday dialing in the front end and I have to say Lyndall brakes are twice as good as stock.  I had a BMW K1600gt prior to the Harley and lets say I was used to good brakes...  I was not impressed how the Harley stopped with the stock rotors and pads Nevermind warping a set every 500 miles or so.

Just need this Covid stuff to subside somewhat.  I don’t feel right going out riding since we have been asked to limit travel to necessities only.  Have to do my part so I have a hole bunch of new hardware sitting idle.

[pooj10]

Yeah I hear you, this Covid stuff has really messed things up this. The wife and I do 5 to 6K mile trip over 9.5 days every year. Hit 42 out 48 states so far. This year we were  supposed to hit three north of us and have a nice ride through Canada. Its is all off the table now.

I was talking with the only Harley tech that I let touch my engine (he is as anal as I am) and I think he going to do a 131 build for me this fall. He is confident with a cam update and the 131 kit with a good tune he can get me a reliable 150hp and 150lb-ft at the rear wheel. I really want to see what I can get out of this M8 without forced induction!

Stay Safe!
Chris

[FLSTFI Dave]

The 131 kit with more compression and right cam should be able to make 150 square with no issues, and be reliable.

[Bruce2018cvorg]

Ah...  any progress with the Lyndall stuff yet?  Your going to need them working 100% If you go for that kit! Lol.

[pooj10]

Finally the rain stopped and was able to get out and try the rotors with the new carriers and pads. Broke them in, and hit the highway. At 70 mph, pulled in clutch and grabbed the front brake. She started to grab and slow quickly, started stinking and faded out. I have contacted Lyndall again.

[pooj10]

I think I figured the issue out tonight, finally! I am not sure what bolts you are running with the Lyndall rotors, but the ones I purchased from Lyndall with the rotors are to long and bottoming out in the wheel hub before creating the correct clamping force. As I was removing them tonight I noticed the heads of the bolts looked slightly out of round and the carrier holes looked egged shaped. I had a tight but loose joint that seems to be causing the problem

[Bruce2018cvorg]

That’s disappointing!  I didn’t have that problem as I used the stock Harley bolts torqued to Lyndall specs.  Hopefully that fixes you up and solves your problem.  They really are so much better that stock.  The big pig now stops!  Onto the final tweeting of the whole new suspension...