Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Twolanerider]

I ordered everything except the cam retention kit, they were out, including inner cam bearings.
I ordered the tools to do the job( you can never have too many tools).
I don’t see anywhere in the service manual where it says anything about cylinder position when installing the cams again I.e. TDC on compression etc.
So what is the deal? Just align the timing marks on the cams and outer gear?

I'm doing the same (well, as close as it can be) today on an old Evo.  Had got close to fixing a slight rocker box leak and putting a new cam in my old FXR several times since winter.  Now it's finally torn apart.  This strange liquid stuff started dripping off my forehead about a half hour ago so said "to hell with it" and came in until evening .

And, to your query, yes, the cams/gears go back in with the marks lined up.  Cam to cam then gear to gear.  Given the ratio between the two gears if they're right everything else has to be.  And amen on never enough tools. If the bike is a keeper for you you're potentially chasing stouter cams as a winter project in a year or two so you'll be good to go.  Those engines run great stock.  But we're teenage boys and we get bored.

Hopefully your missing bits are a short backorder.  Supply lines are so screwed up too many things are taking way too long.  Will keep my finger crossed you get the missing bits quick.

[TonyO77]

Thanks for the info, I’m use to working on v8s 6s, diesels , equipment and what not.(I’m familiar with almost all combustion/ compression engines except the guts on a twin cam) I wasn’t sure if you had to position the pistons at TDC or what in order to keep it in time, I just assumed you could screw up and have it 180 out like a v8 even if the marks on the cam are aligned

[Sea Biscuit]

For tensioner, I’ve used these and for me, they work great:

https://www.zippersperformance.com/red-shift-dual-piston-tensioners/

[Twolanerider]

For tensioner, I’ve used these and for me, they work great:

https://www.zippersperformance.com/red-shift-dual-piston-tensioners/

Those have come up in discussion before.  When first introduced they had a thread that was nearly as entertaining as the oil threads get to be sometimes.  To the parts themselves though I don't ever remember anyone having an issue with them in service.  But damned they're expensive; and the stock pieces do a good job also. 

[Sea Biscuit]

I’ve had these Zipper tensioners in now for several years. Went into the cam chest last fall to install the Screaming Eagle cam plate and oil pump and had a look at the tensioners and there was no wear whatsoever.

They were also cheaper when I bought them, but like everything else these days prices are up!

[TonyO77]

Got it apart, everything looks good except the shoes(both inner and outer pitted pretty bad) and the oil pump, galling and wear on both the housing and gears but it looks like I caught it in time.

[Twolanerider]

I’ve had these Zipper tensioners in now for several years. Went into the cam chest last fall to install the Screaming Eagle cam plate and oil pump and had a look at the tensioners and there was no wear whatsoever.

They were also cheaper when I bought them, but like everything else these days prices are up!

Just be glad those Zippers tensioners aren't made of OSB or 2x lumber.  If they were the price would be a thousand bucks by now!!

[Twolanerider]

Got it apart, everything looks good except the shoes(both inner and outer pitted pretty bad) and the oil pump, galling and wear on both the housing and gears but it looks like I caught it in time.

You did good Tony.  Yours doesn't look frighteningly bad but it's definitely at the "since I'm in there" stage.  The new oil pump will scavenge a lot better than the stock piece and your hot idle oil pressure will be noticeably better.  Definitely worth doing. 

So what do you think of the little motor you're inside of now compared to what you're used to? They're a surprisingly simple little beast.

[TonyO77]

I like it it’s a good looking piece, I think the bearing tolerances could be a little closer and I assume that’s what it is because the cameras don’t show any visible where on the bosses but it is a great motor I’m seriously thinking about doing camps at some point but for now I’m just laying the groundwork to make it easier when I make that leap

[TonyO77]

I’ve got to admit though since I have an a party I’m really having to fight the urge to go ahead and have it deck or maybe have the heads shade and put new cams in it meanwhile my business partner is watching me work on it and keep saying you know you would like to go faster

[TonyO77]

One thing I will for sure do while I have it apart is check the crank run out and see if the gear drive option is available to me if I should decide to do it

[Twolanerider]

I’ve got to admit though since I have an a party I’m really having to fight the urge to go ahead and have it deck or maybe have the heads shade and put new cams in it meanwhile my business partner is watching me work on it and keep saying you know you would like to go faster

And that's the slippery slope....   


Ok, here goes.  A build of mine on a 103 done in the bike.  No splitting the cases. 

50mm throttle body
You can up the bore size just a bit and get to 107 without making anything too thin.
Good but not dramatic head work
Take the compression to 10.25:1 or just a bit more with combination of pistons and head work and .030 head gasket.  You can live without compression releases in that range.
Mackie's 598 cams or TMans 590 or his 625s or a few others
My best one in that range also had roller rockers, gear drive, etc.  With a tune that was a bit too aggressive really hot weather it was in the high 120s/120s.  Little more forgiving tune for all weather riding and it was 120/120 plus a tiny bit.  All kinds of torque early and low.  Better there with the Mackie 598 than the TMan 625 but I like them both a lot.

But... the 103s run great to begin with.  There are cams that will really wake them nicely as a bolt in without touching anything else.  I'm not a fan of the company but Zipper's 575 cams are really good for this engine as a bolt in.  But you can make a noticeably different animal out of it without splitting the cases.

[TonyO77]

Also, Jim’s USA makes some mighty fine tools, they are worth every penny

[Twolanerider]

Also, Jim’s USA makes some mighty fine tools, they are worth every penny

Never heard a complaint with their tools.  Another good sources is George's.  Often cheaper and he doesn't quibble about warranty issues.  Just an FYI.

https://www.georges-garage.com/

[TonyO77]

Still waiting on parts, they are supposed to be here tomorrow.
Since I’m doing lifters and pushrods, should I fill the lifters with oil and adjust pushrods from there or try to manually set the lash at the valves?