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[Twolanerider]

Chief,

It is the same as the 06. 

Here is the link to the thread in the old system:

http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1145447973

I had it bookmarked for reference while I did mine.  I don't know how to translated to the new bb format.

In essence, don't tap the oil cooler lines in as instructed, route sending unit to spare oil drain port in pan.

T-lane has excellent picture of drain port -- look for dead cat reference. I can't seem to find the picture via search.

Mark

Chuck, prior to 07s mounting the sending unit in the pan was simply easier and didn't require removal and loss of the chrome oil line cover (that also left an open view of the new plumbing and sending unit).  The riders with the new oil cooler have even reported that the location keeps the sending unit from reporting properly.  The in-the-pan install is still much easier and gives a cleaner look.  You'll need to hit the hardware store to get a piece of brass.  Reducer from 1/2" pipe to 3/8" if I remember correctly.  Use the hole marked "crank" in the picture.

[Fired00d]

Chief,

It is the same as the 06. 

Here is the link to the thread in the old system:

http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1145447973

I had it bookmarked for reference while I did mine.  I don't know how to translated to the new bb format.

In essence, don't tap the oil cooler lines in as instructed, route sending unit to spare oil drain port in pan.

T-lane has excellent picture of drain port -- look for dead cat reference. I can't seem to find the picture via search.

Mark

Try this link - Spun Aluminum Oil Temp Gaugue

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Chief]

Thanks guys. I understand the "proper" mounting location as that is where I mounted the VDO gauge I have on my '99. This is something I added in 2000, before HD ever sold an oil temp kit. My question is centered around what the MoCo is now telling people to do on the 2007 models because there is no exposed oil line on the new motors. The oil lines are now cast into a passage in the transmission casting. This also means we can no longer add the chrome oil line cover as was possible on the '99 to '06 models.

This was just a question to satisfy my own curiosity. I am currently happy with the LCD dipstick I added. If it fails I may replace the air temp / rain gauge with the HD offering. Maybe by then, they will add the pins so it matches the rest of the gauges better.

Chief

[nixobilly]

so -- what is the max safe temp on the 110  280/290/300?

mark

[IronButt]

Chuck, prior to 07s mounting the sending unit in the pan was simply easier and didn't require removal and loss of the chrome oil line cover (that also left an open view of the new plumbing and sending unit).  The riders with the new oil cooler have even reported that the location keeps the sending unit from reporting properly.  The in-the-pan install is still much easier and gives a cleaner look.  You'll need to hit the hardware store to get a piece of brass.  Reducer from 1/2" pipe to 3/8" if I remember correctly.  Use the hole marked "crank" in the picture.

Thank you for the info, I know you suggested the aux crank position, but in the photo there is a better place.

Properly placed in the dead cats arse I believe will net the most accurate temperature, isn't that where they take our temp?

Seriously, HD has a part # for something for the 07, Dealer is closed today so I will check on Tuesday.
Here is the P/N and discreption 26133-07 KIT ADAPTER OIL TEMPERA.

I like the reducer comming right out of the pan idea.

Thanks again


IronButt

[Billy]

so -- what is the max safe temp on the 110?

mark

Yes So far no one has reallyanswer the original topic, We seem to be off the subject. Like Mark says what is the max temp and to what effect does 10 degrees make. To me as soon as  you slow down to take the temps on any air cooled engine you could be way off from normal running temps. Billy

[IronButt]

Yes So far no one has reallyanswer the original topic, We seem to be off the subject. Like Mark says what is the max temp and to what effect does 10 degrees make. To me as soon as  you slow down to take the temps on any air cooled engine you could be way off from normal running temps. Billy

Billy,
Your question was answered in the following 2 quotes, the first 2 responses:

Spoke with MOCO factory rep 2weeks ago my springer is runing at about 260 degrees on back roads with air temps at 78 to 84 degrees. I have not done any motor work yet. The rep said that was normal for the 110,s She also said it can go as high as 300  degrees...   I think it 's BS  so I will either sell it or do the pipe sert cam and AF and hope for the best.   PS the rep said that they do not have any issues with the 110;s .I guess everyone on this site is full of it,or is it the MOCO.  Maybe we can start  a plan for folks to start calling the factory with their concerns then things may change.....

After the mods I made my bike runs cooler than stock. Being concerned about heat I asked about oil temps and about an oilcooler. The SM said the oil temps should be 220 to 230 and added that an oil cooler is useless when you really need it most, stopped in traffic, no air flow. With that being said. I bought an LED dipstick to monitor the temp and will do a fan assist to the rear jug if it gets too hot. Also  I would add a fan to an oilcooler if I got one.

Iron

If these answers do not satisfy you I suggest you ask your SM.

Also, as far as the off topic remark goes. We are well within the topic, 2 Global Moderators have posted in this topic. If they felt we were off topic, they wold tell us, BELIVE ME!

Topics tend to evolve and cover all things involved. The subject here OIL TEMP, once answered IT HAS BEEN, now how do we get the temp reading. You yourself just brought up riding or stopped readings. Should we just ignore your OFF TOPIC (as you say it is not a number) remarks?

Your question was answered and we are well with in the realm of this topic, IMOP and possably the 2 Global Moderators.

IronButt

[jfh]

Thanks guys. I understand the "proper" mounting location as that is where I mounted the VDO gauge I have on my '99. This is something I added in 2000, before HD ever sold an oil temp kit. My question is centered around what the MoCo is now telling people to do on the 2007 models because there is no exposed oil line on the new motors. The oil lines are now cast into a passage in the transmission casting. This also means we can no longer add the chrome oil line cover as was possible on the '99 to '06 models.

This was just a question to satisfy my own curiosity. I am currently happy with the LCD dipstick I added. If it fails I may replace the air temp / rain gauge with the HD offering. Maybe by then, they will add the pins so it matches the rest of the gauges better.

Chief

The oil temp sensor adapter for 2007 models is similar to what is used for the oil cooler lines. If you already have an oil cooler, you don't need any of the adapter kit parts except the "T" fitting to tap into the oil cooler return line (H-D doesn't tell you that and you could get one at any auto parts store for about $2).  This sensor mount posistion gives you the temp of the oil after it passes through the cooler which is why many do not like it.  If you do not have an oil cooler, the adapter is the same except instead of having fittings for the cooler lines, one side is plugged and the other is where the temp sensor mounts. 

The oil pan mount location mentioned by others is by far the best location

[jfh]

Yes So far no one has reallyanswer the original topic, We seem to be off the subject. Like Mark says what is the max temp and to what effect does 10 degrees make. To me as soon as  you slow down to take the temps on any air cooled engine you could be way off from normal running temps. Billy

Oil temp may be an indicator, but rear head temp is really the critical measurement to monitor.  Head temps will fluxuate far more rapidly than the oil will.  Zipper's sets the T-Max Engine Check Light to illuminate when the head temp reaches 325 degrees.  Sustained operation at this temp will cause problems and if you can't get moving to cool the heads, you need to pull over and let it cool down.  The stock ECM is programmed to change fuel/spark idle behavior to try and mitigate this much heat. T-Max can be programmed to drop idle speed and retard timing as things heat up.

This may not be exactly what you were looking for but it should help.

[Chief]

Oil temp may be an indicator, but rear head temp is really the critical measurement to monitor.  Head temps will fluxuate far more rapidly than the oil will.  Zipper's sets the T-Max Engine Check Light to illuminate when the rear head temp reaches 325 degrees.  Sustained operation at this temp will cause problems and if you can't get moving to cool the heads, you need to pull over and let it cool down.  The stock ECM is programmed to change fuel/spark idle behavior to try and mitigate this much heat. T-Max can be programmed to drop idle speed and retard timing as things heat up.

This may not be exactly what you were looking for but it should help.

Unless you add a second cylinder head temperature (CHT) gauge, the only head temp you've got is the one on the front head, the cool head. We have had several board members, myself included, who have seen temps in excess of 375 degrees on the rear head.

In speaking with the SM at the local dealer, he said his "oh chit" point is set somewhere near 400 - 425 degrees. I've never seen anything near that, but I have seen 382 once. This is rear head temp, not front. This temperature will not be recorded by the ECM because the ECM only measures the front head temp.

Chief

[Chief]

The oil temp sensor adapter for 2007 models is similar to what is used for the oil cooler lines. If you already have an oil cooler, you don't need any of the adapter kit parts except the "T" fitting to tap into the oil cooler return line (H-D doesn't tell you that and you could get one at any auto parts store for about $2).  This sensor mount posistion gives you the temp of the oil after it passes through the cooler which is why many do not like it.  If you do not have an oil cooler, the adapter is the same except instead of having fittings for the cooler lines, one side is plugged and the other is where the temp sensor mounts. 

The oil pan mount location mentioned by others is by far the best location

So to do it the MoCo way, instead of simply installing it in the logical position, the oil tank, I have to buy a special adapter, or cut into the oil cooler lines. Yeah, that's well thought out.

Chief

[Billy]

Unless you add a second cylinder head temperature (CHT) gauge, the only head temp you've got is the one on the front head, the cool head. We have had several board members, myself included, who have seen temps in excess of 375 degrees on the rear head.

In speaking with the SM at the local dealer, he said his "oh chit" point is set somewhere near 400 - 425 degrees. I've never seen anything near that, but I have seen 382 once. This is rear head temp, not front. This temperature will not be recorded by the ECM because the ECM only measures the front head temp.

Chief Thanks Thaat helps. i get the feeling from the  all the threads that my bike will not make it very long with high  temps. i really don't want to change the sound and can't find true duals that are quite enough for me. Thanks Billy

[Chief]

Chief Thanks Thaat helps. i get the feeling from the  all the threads that my bike will not make it very long with high  temps. i really don't want to change the sound and can't find true duals that are quite enough for me. Thanks Billy

Billy,

You could get true dual head pipes, like the V&H, and use your stock mufflers on them. That will keep it quiet and move heat from the right side.

Good luck,

Chief

[Twolanerider]

So to do it the MoCo way, instead of simply installing it in the logical position, the oil tank, I have to buy a special adapter, or cut into the oil cooler lines. Yeah, that's well thought out.

Chief

Well, sort of.  The special adaptor is just two dollar brass fitting at any hardware store, home center or auto parts store.

[Chief]

Well, sort of.  The special adaptor is just two dollar brass fitting at any hardware store, home center or auto parts store.

I was refering to installing the sensor as the MoCo would have me do it, and if I didn't have an oil cooler, I'd have to buy their gizmo to put the sensor next to the oil filter.

Too much crow for them to eat if they install it in the extra hole in the oil tank.

Chief