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[hd-dude]

You will loose about a 1/2" of ground clearance with the stand installed

[hd-dude]

Last one, Here is the other side with the stand up.

[Fired00d]

Jim,
Thanks for the install pictures/procedures. I noticed that it appears you don't have a Tru-Track or RideStr8 how do you think this stand will work w/them or will it work? Not real sure I would want to loose the clearance, my 275lbs already makes my squat enough.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[hd-dude]

Jim,
Thanks for the install pictures/procedures. I noticed that it appears you don't have a Tru-Track or RideStr8 how do you think this stand will work w/them or will it work? Not real sure I would want to loose the clearance, my 275lbs already makes my squat enough.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

I do have the ride str8. you just can't see it in from the angle I took the pics. There is no problem with it. This stand will not work with the true track

[Fired00d]

I do have the ride str8. you just can't see it in from the angle I took the pics. There is no problem with it. This stand will not work with the true track

Thanks for that info.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[greglyon]

I installed the center stand today. nstall was pretty easy but a couple of issues that I had with mine were that the passenger floor board would hit against the stand when it was up. I had to raise the floorboard to the upper position to gain the needed clearance.

The other item is the mounting on the unit to the cross member. The instructions tell you to use the 7/8" 1/4" -20 bolts to mount it and bent the plate into place and then remove them and use the 1/2" bolts for the permanent mount. I did not like the idea of bending into place so I used a 1/4" spacer between the top bar and lower plate. Here is a pic of where I placed the spacer:

Mine should be here on Wednesday.  I will be using it on a standard height Roadglide.  Any suggestions for the adjustment or do the instructions lay it out clearly.  Also, do you anticipate any problems using a lift as it sounds like part of the stand hangs below the cross member.
Thanks   

[hd-dude]

They give starting points for the mesurements, based on turns outward on the adjusters. In the "Wheel off the ground" position I found it impossible to get onto the stand as I don't have the rear guards. In the "on the ground" position the rear wheel will still turn althought it just touches. I would start at the recommended "on the ground" position (9 turns) for a standard height bike and go from there.

I have not yet tried my lift on the bike. It will interfere a bit but I do not know yet if it will be a problem or not.

[Twolanerider]

I installed the center stand today. nstall was pretty easy but a couple of issues that I had with mine were that the passenger floor board would hit against the stand when it was up. I had to raise the floorboard to the upper position to gain the needed clearance.

The other item is the mounting on the unit to the cross member. The instructions tell you to use the 7/8" 1/4" -20 bolts to mount it and bent the plate into place and then remove them and use the 1/2" bolts for the permanent mount. I did not like the idea of bending into place so I used a 1/4" spacer between the top bar and lower plate. Here is a pic of where I placed the spacer:

Jim, just want to make sure I understand what you're describing correctly.  OE part does not conform to the crossmember?  OE instructions have you deforming the crossmember as much as .375" before using the final length hardware?

If that's what is going on it sounds, well, I started to say "poorly designed."  Unfortunately, Harley-esque is also accurate.  Am I understanding the description correctly or did I miss something?

[hd-dude]

Jim, just want to make sure I understand what you're describing correctly.  OE part does not conform to the crossmember?  OE instructions have you deforming the crossmember as much as .375" before using the final length hardware?

If that's what is going on it sounds, well, I started to say "poorly designed."  Unfortunately, Harley-esque is also accurate.  Am I understanding the description correctly or did I miss something?

Partially correct Don, The piece of flat bar that goes on top of the crossmember bends to the shape as the top is slightly arced. I did not like "conforming" the bracket to the underside that is why I chose to use the spacers. That part of the brace only offers back and forth support and the stand does not rely on it for function so I did not see the harm with the spacers. It is pretty thin metal. It looks better then bending the mount to fit.

And your right about the "Harley-esque" nature of this piece.

All and all I like it and would but it again.

[Twolanerider]

Partially correct Don, The piece of flat bar that goes on top of the crossmember bends to the shape as the top is slightly arced. I did not like "conforming" the bracket to the underside that is why I chose to use the spacers. That part of the brace only offers back and forth support and the stand does not rely on it for function so I did not see the harm with the spacers. It is pretty thin metal. It looks better then bending the mount to fit.

And your right about the "Harley-esque" nature of this piece.

All and all I like it and would but it again.

Ok, so the new part is tightened to the dogbone rather than the crossmember being bent to the new part.  The entire long-bolt-short-bolt process seems so odd.  After having seen it all in person can you see any rationale to their doing it that way?

[hd-dude]

Ok, so the new part is tightened to the dogbone rather than the crossmember being bent to the new part.  The entire long-bolt-short-bolt process seems so odd.  After having seen it all in person can you see any rationale to their doing it that way?

Don;
See attached, part 3 is the top plate that bends to the arc of the crossmember. Part L is the bottom thin piece of the bracket that would get really tweaked into the bottom channel of the crossmember. Using the spacer between part 3 and part L prevented part L from being bent but still allowed sufficient clamping force to hold the brack in place.

I cannot understand why they did not make the bracket to fit better up inside of the crossmember so that it did not have to be bent.

[greglyon]

They give starting points for the mesurements, based on turns outward on the adjusters. In the "Wheel off the ground" position I found it impossible to get onto the stand as I don't have the rear guards. In the "on the ground" position the rear wheel will still turn althought it just touches. I would start at the recommended "on the ground" position (9 turns) for a standard height bike and go from there.

I have not yet tried my lift on the bike. It will interfere a bit but I do not know yet if it will be a problem or not.

Thanks, mine should be here today.  I am not sure if i will go the spacer or "squisher" route when installing.

[UltraPolecat]

Its a lot cheaper to tool up a flat part than a part with a formed shape.  Not that MoCo would skimp on their tooled part design...   

[porthole]

Jim - try the jack yet? Using the J&S that uses the dog bone for positioning?

[hd-dude]

Jim - try the jack yet? Using the J&S that uses the dog bone for positioning?

Not yet...