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[tommyo]

Have a S&S 585g now and want a little more snap of the bottom. Have a huge lag of of idle. They tell me because there is such an over lap and high lift that not much for bottom end. I am concidering trying a 2 inot 1 system for exhaust also. I have CNC ported heads and HD is telling me to go with a 260 cam that is supposed to go with the heads. Any opinions out there? I'm at 102 hp 100tq would be willing to sacrafice a little hp for some more tq.

[Unbalanced]

TommyO,

I doubt you will see bottom end on the 260 cam with a 95".  Look at the overlap / duration on the cam.   That cam should run great from 3200 - 6200.

Have they tried advancing the timing down low 1500 - 2250 rpm and leaning it up a bit there.   Hesitation while it can be from the cam can also be from being to rich or the timing being to retarded.   It only takes a couple of points 2/3 pts and you may see a big difference.   Also when they did your dyno how much timing did they add at 100 percent throttle from 3000-6000 rpm?

I forget now if you have a race tuner or not, if you do there are easy ways to figure out what kPa your at by logging the data and being able to see if the hesitation is really in the cam or the tune.   

[Rooster]

I would not recommend the se 251's either as I lost my low end after the motor warmed up and the outside temp rose over 85 or so. Seems like the head work is a good thing but the stock cams and the stock pistons are going back in see what happens next. Actually I think the biggest problem is the domed pistons, or maybe the combination. Still trying to figure it out.

[mr_magoo]

Good to know Rooster thanks for the info.  Hope they get you back on the road soon.

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well one thing that you have going against you is that the large intake valve you ahve and the amount of duration. Not uncommon to have the air drop hugely in velcotiy in that head with a large duration cam.  Compression wise you are within the ball park. I agree first see what timing you have going on vs AFR curve.

Second we port a fair amount of those heads and every one we weld them up and report and close the port dow to drive the velocity up. And every time you have a winner as a end result. That head works well if you are using a light bike with the heavier bikes that is fairly common to feel a bit of softness in the lower rpm range.

 I know that is not a easy fix, look at tune first then move from there. Going to a 30 tooth front comp will help as well to get the gearing back to a 3.15, also what baffles are you using?? going to the smaller core baffle will help if you have the reinhert full system. I am not a huge fan of that pipe as the large difference in head pipe legnth has a effect on the harmonics of the tune along with the large port/ large valve combo you are going to have some issue on the tune back cylinder being the most difficult due to the 315* timing event on the rear along with the short pipe vs the front at 405* with a much longer head pipe.

[Hoist!]

Well one thing that you have going against you is that the large intake valve you ahve and the amount of duration. Not uncommon to have the air drop hugely in velcotiy in that head with a large duration cam.  Compression wise you are within the ball park. I agree first see what timing you have going on vs AFR curve.

Second we port a fair amount of those heads and every one we weld them up and report and close the port dow to drive the velocity up. And every time you have a winner as a end result. That head works well if you are using a light bike with the heavier bikes that is fairly common to feel a bit of softness in the lower rpm range.

 I know that is not a easy fix, look at tune first then move from there. Going to a 30 tooth front comp will help as well to get the gearing back to a 3.15, also what baffles are you using?? going to the smaller core baffle will help if you have the reinhert full system. I am not a huge fan of that pipe as the large difference in head pipe legnth has a effect on the harmonics of the tune along with the large port/ large valve combo you are going to have some issue on the tune back cylinder being the most difficult due to the 315* timing event on the rear along with the short pipe vs the front at 405* with a much longer head pipe.

As far as I know, you cant change gearing in the 110" primaries, like in previous years? Hoist!

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

Well the primary is the new style of set up and there is a company that makes a 30 tooth non comp sprocket. I have used it on the 07 bikes but no CVO I was not aware they where different gearing from a standard 07.  I will look that up. Maybe I am wrong   The kit comes with a new chain along with the 30 tooth front sprocket. Cost on the kit is 275.95 through us.

[Hoist!]

Well the primary is the new style of set up and there is a company that makes a 30 tooth non comp sprocket. I have used it on the 07 bikes but no CVO I was not aware they where different gearing from a standard 07.  I will look that up. Maybe I am wrong   The kit comes with a new chain along with the 30 tooth front sprocket. Cost on the kit is 275.95 through us.

Steve, if you can confirm this, I'm in! Hoist!

[SCRM-R]

Baker Transmissions just came out with two new transmission pulleys to change your gear ratio on 2007 FL's.  One changes it a little more than the other.  Seems like an efficient way to get the result, but it does require a new H-D drive belt...they tell you which one is needed.  A buddy of mine has one ordered, so I should know how it works in a few weeks.  Here's a link to the info. on Baker's website:
http://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/drivetrainupgrades/transmission-pulleys.htm#hdCruiseDrive

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

The front crank sprocket is the best way to go as you do not have to pull the belt re call the speedo, and buying a new belt cost wise that is a much more exspensive route to travel, and easy of install is much easier on the front engine sprocket..  in our opinion.

[SCRM-R]

I am sure that you are right.  He was quoted about $500.00 for parts and labor, but that is the way that he decided to go.  At least I'll have an idea how good it works when completed.

[Hoist!]

Baker Transmissions just came out with two new transmission pulleys to change your gear ratio on 2007 FL's.  One changes it a little more than the other.  Seems like an efficient way to get the result, but it does require a new H-D drive belt...they tell you which one is needed.  A buddy of mine has one ordered, so I should know how it works in a few weeks.  Here's a link to the info. on Baker's website:
http://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/drivetrainupgrades/transmission-pulleys.htm#hdCruiseDrive

These guys are killing us w/this '07 development chit! I spoke to Baker about 2 months ago and they weren't developing anything for the '07 primary setups. Now they have stuff out for it. I'll try the comp sprocket change first and see how I like it. Did Baker make new clutch baskets too, so you can use their King Kong Clutch assembly, to go along with their gear ratio change? Thanks for the heads-up SCRM-R. Hoist!

[Hoist!]

The stock comp sprocket is a 34 tooth. The Kit uses a 30 tooth with a new Primary Chain. I would have liked a 31 or 32 tooth, but I'll see how much it affects the RPM vs. speed and make sure I don't lose any ridability with it. I'll let ya'll know what I think. It should be here by the end of next week and so should my bike. So don't ask if I have it done yet or  You'll get everything when it's done! Hoist!

[tommyo]

Wow did we get a little off topic...lol!

[Hoist!]

Wow did we get a little off topic...lol!

Sorry tommyo, but not too badly! Steve kinda tied the 2 issues together in his Reply #4 here. Don't forget, it takes a properly matched combination of components for the bike to run the way you want it to. Hoist!