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[newseultra07]

I need to cut my windshield down about 2". What is the best way to do this & what power tool is best suited for this job. Should i cut from the bottom or top. Trying to find the rite height so i can order a clearview shield.

[Coolbreeze]

hmmmm.....     may not help you in the long run, as the clearview will have the double recurve swoosh type whackajackie wind encabulator at the top that makes it act taller than it is....   that having been said, there is always the "looking over the top of it" issue...  ssoooo....   

I have used the old jigsaw in the past,(Lay down masking tape on the inside and outside first to keep the face scratches down),  followed by a quick dressing with the draw file, and then a pass with the propane torch to gloss the edge back up... 

[9 1/2 Beers]

http://www.clearviewshields.com/

[LRebel]

You will most likely ruin the windshield if you try to cut it down.  But if you must, I would think that the best option to get a smooth cut would be a high speed router.  You will have to mask it and then draw your line where you intend to cut it.  Unless you can come up with some sort of jig, you are just going to have to free hand it.

[BIGDOG]

I have never met a windshield I didn't cut. Leave it on the bike, cover bike very well, tape windshield with masking tape. take a plastic car door edge molding [sold at auto parts store] form it to the curve you want and where you want it and tape it with just enough tape to hold shape and trace it to the windshield . Take a good saber saw with a short 14 tpi blade and cot the windshield. Next take a small belt sander and carefully clean and perfect the shape.
TO put a factory edge use a finish sander start with 100 grit sand paper and work up to 220 grit , take some Armoral and wipe the edge. DONE. I have cut at least 40 windshields and not a single failure. Good luck
.

[Dan_Lockwood]

You will most likely ruin the windshield if you try to cut it down.  But if you must, I would think that the best option to get a smooth cut would be a high speed router.  You will have to mask it and then draw your line where you intend to cut it.  Unless you can come up with some sort of jig, you are just going to have to free hand it.

I bought a HD 22" and cut it down to a 19".  I laid out the center line of the windshield and then come up with a pleasing curve for that side.  I then made sure the transition was smooth into the original profile.  Make sure that there is a couple layers of blue carpenters tape on the windshield.  Once I got the profile the way I wanted it, I transferred it to a piece of light cardboard, like the back of a calendar.  I then mirrored the first side to the other side and drew my mark to cut on.

I have a air jigsaw I use for body panels on cars.  It's basically just a slightly smaller and slightly fast saw than a higher priced hand jigsaw like a Bosch or B&D.

Put in the finest blade you can and just take it easy.  Once it is cut, rig up a sanding block and wrap it with about 320 grit sandpaper and sand the cut edge until smooth.  Once it's smooth, you can actually then round the edge slightly to be identical to the lower portion of the factory cut.  If finer paper is available, 600 grit, put it on a rubber block and lightly sand the edge for a final finish.

I have people look at my windshied and when I tell them I cut it down they don't believe it.  A person just needs to take their time and not rush anything.

Always cover the windshield with several layers of blue capenter tape.  Use the blue as it's less tacky and will not ruin the finish and it's also easier to clean up.

I think that anyone that takes their time the job will look very good.  Just take the time to make the transition from the new cut on the sides to match and flow smoothly into the original profile shape.

This worked for me just fine and I doubt a windshield will be lost in the process.

Although I agree with someone earlier, the clearview will not give you the same protection as a factory windshield at the same height.  I don't have a clearview windshield, but I believe one of the "advantages" of their shield is that it's supposed to provide the same coverage / protection as a 2" to 3" taller conventional windshield.

There are several threads about the heights people have, but they are only really relevant to the person on the seat on that bike.

Good luck.

 

[Rooster]

My first wsheild was to high so put a piece of tape and rode until I got the desired amount I wanted cut went to a place called Tap Plastic's in Portland, they matched the curve for about 30 bucks and I didn't have to oops and buy a whole new shield.

[TORKER07]

I made my own windshield from a piece of LEXAN from Home Depot. Don't mistake PLEXIGLASS for LEXAN. Plexiglass can and will shatter. I cut mine on a bandsaw with a slow speed. LEXAN and windshields are made from plastic and if you use to high of speed cutting tool it will melt and make a real mess to clean up. A belt sander or some sort of sanding device will make the finishing job faster and easier than by hand, just don't try to rush it. I'm sure your experience of cutting a windshield down will be a good one if you just take your time like the others have said.

Ride on and enjoy!
Tork   

[mhjimh]

I tape both sides, use a second winshield for the pattern, a jig saw 14 tpi, a small metal file and then a small piece of wood cove molding with sand paper 220 grit and working down to 500.

[DavidB]

I have cut 3 windshields this way and it works. I used another windshield to trace the outline.
After filing and sanding the cut smooth I used MEK on rag and run it across the cut. Makes it look factory. Just dont let it drip or run down . It melts the Lexan.

I bought a HD 22" and cut it down to a 19".  I laid out the center line of the windshield and then come up with a pleasing curve for that side.  I then made sure the transition was smooth into the original profile.  Make sure that there is a couple layers of blue carpenters tape on the windshield.  Once I got the profile the way I wanted it, I transferred it to a piece of light cardboard, like the back of a calendar.  I then mirrored the first side to the other side and drew my mark to cut on.

I have a air jigsaw I use for body panels on cars.  It's basically just a slightly smaller and slightly fast saw than a higher priced hand jigsaw like a Bosch or B&D.

Put in the finest blade you can and just take it easy.  Once it is cut, rig up a sanding block and wrap it with about 320 grit sandpaper and sand the cut edge until smooth.  Once it's smooth, you can actually then round the edge slightly to be identical to the lower portion of the factory cut.  If finer paper is available, 600 grit, put it on a rubber block and lightly sand the edge for a final finish.

I have people look at my windshied and when I tell them I cut it down they don't believe it.  A person just needs to take their time and not rush anything.

Always cover the windshield with several layers of blue capenter tape.  Use the blue as it's less tacky and will not ruin the finish and it's also easier to clean up.

I think that anyone that takes their time the job will look very good.  Just take the time to make the transition from the new cut on the sides to match and flow smoothly into the original profile shape.

This worked for me just fine and I doubt a windshield will be lost in the process.

Although I agree with someone earlier, the clearview will not give you the same protection as a factory windshield at the same height.  I don't have a clearview windshield, but I believe one of the "advantages" of their shield is that it's supposed to provide the same coverage / protection as a 2" to 3" taller conventional windshield.

There are several threads about the heights people have, but they are only really relevant to the person on the seat on that bike.

Good luck.

 

[SMOKIN' JACKET]

My first wsheild was to high so put a piece of tape and rode until I got the desired amount I wanted cut went to a place called Tap Plastic's in Portland, they matched the curve for about 30 bucks and I didn't have to oops and buy a whole new shield.

I'm with you.  Tap Plastics can do almost anything.  That is also what Harley suggested to me.  Haven't had the need, I am getting the 10 inch windvest.  Hope I like it.

[Coolbreeze]

Sanding the edges is fine if you want the gnarly edge look.     You owe it to yourself to take the cut-off scrap and finish it first as an experiment.   just sand or file smooth.  400 grit is fine enough, and then just whisk across it with a propane torch.  You'll be amazed at the totally clear and high gloss finish that you get.  Don't try to heat it up, just kind of wave past it...   

[MUFFMAN]

Jig saw works for me every time!

[courter]

I don't know specifically about Lexan (polycarbonate), but other plastics can eventually develop cracks when cut with a jigsaw because of the vertical lines scored into the edge and the back and forth bending that occurs during the cut.  A router and a template is the preferred method for many plastics, and the one used by HD (although the chatter marks left show that they don't do much to it afterward).   Good luck with it whatever you try!

[spydglide]

I don't know specifically about Lexan (polycarbonate), but other plastics can eventually develop cracks when cut with a jigsaw because of the vertical lines scored into the edge and the back and forth bending that occurs during the cut.  A router and a template is the preferred method for many plastics, and the one used by HD (although the chatter marks left show that they don't do much to it afterward).   Good luck with it whatever you try!

What's your opinion on using a band saw?  spyder