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[Boatman]

SO far the hardest part was getting the front exhaust pipe off. Had to just about break one nut-bolt for the center clamp, had to cut the "T-bolt" clamp for the muffler and had to break 2 of the 3 hose clamps for the heat shield.

As you stated Duane, the stock exhaust is a major PIA to remove.  Have TD's now so is an improvement.

Literally had to knock the chrome timing cover off with a rubber mallet.  Didn't even need any bolts in it to hold it on.

Good pictures as usual, Bob. 

[porthole]

As you stated Duane, the stock exhaust is a major PIA to remove.  Have TD's now so is an improvement.

Literally had to knock the chrome timing cover off with a rubber mallet.  Didn't even need any bolts in it to hold it on.

Good pictures as usual, Bob. 

These are Rineharts Bob, so only have one pipe - no crossover to deal with.

Same here with the cover - good thing Bob wasn't here to see my mallets at work 

Lifter blocks were tough too, Loctite - no room for a socket and stuck to the crankcase.

Using a new camera too - bit a a learning curve to get good pictures compared to my previous.

[Boatman]

Regarding the oil pump alignment-when I called George to order the cam tools, he stated I did not need his alignment dowels as I told him I was installing a Feuling oil pump.  Anyway, I installed per Feulings instructions and has been ok-knock wood.
Regarding instructions, all the instructions that came with the pump, lifters, and S&S geardrive were better than the service manual-FWIW..

Duane-you may as well have Bob order to sets of everything and forget about your extended warranty.

[Sean M Cary]

Sean - If you are mechanical it is not that big of a deal. SO far the hardest part was getting the front exhaust pipe off. Had to just about break one nut-bolt for the center clamp, had to cut the "T-bolt" clamp for the muffler and had to break 2 of the 3 hose clamps for the heat shield.

I'm adding the pictures because the book leaves a few of them out.

My former career had me doing this stuff all the time, just not on bikes, so I have most any tools I would need, except for the speciality items.
I expect the re-assembly will be no big deal, just don't have any parts yet to get an idea of what I will be doing.

Still trying to picture in my mind how the gear drives work - since the chain keeps everything in rotational order and gears change direction without an idler in the mix.

This is the first twin cam pump I have seen, and with no previous experience I would say NO. I do wonder why though there is no iron sleeve for the gerotors or a cast iron pump housing.

Now that I know the pump alignment procedure I would venture to say if the dealer was doing this job the odds are good the extra time needed to align the pump would be skipped.

I am good with a wrench - have done all the work on all my vehicles - and worked in college full time as a mech...

It really helps to see the actual insides of what you are getting into.

Sean

[porthole]

Regarding the oil pump alignment-when I called George to order the cam tools, he stated I did not need his alignment dowels as I told him I was installing a Feuling oil pump.  Anyway, I installed per Feulings instructions and has been ok-knock wood.
Regarding instructions, all the instructions that came with the pump, lifters, and S&S geardrive were better than the service manual-FWIW..

Duane-you may as well have Bob order to sets of everything and forget about your extended warranty.

We are doing the SE pump and plate, so I am getting the pins anyway, need another tool either way, may as order once.

I will probably wait, although I am considering the exact same thing I am also considering doing something to the heads and maybe up the bore a bit. Will see at the end of the season if I have no problems between now and then. The bike has 30k+ now and I figure by the end of the year it should have another 10K, might be ready for rings and bigger pistons by then, maybe a little head work.

[porthole]

I am good with a wrench - have done all the work on all my vehicles - and worked in college full time as a mech...

It really helps to see the actual insides of what you are getting into.

Sean

Sean,

I think my pictures will make it a little clearer if you have some reservations. As Bob noted the HD manual is not the greatest.

[Sean M Cary]

Sean,

I think my pictures will make it a little clearer if you have some reservations. As Bob noted the HD manual is not the greatest.

yeah, I pretty much think it sucks...  The parts manual is better, but still weak.

I used to work on VW's in high school, had my own mobile engine building and repair service.  The VW Factory manuals - they were the standard all others should be held to.

My .02

Sean

   The Carrot Man is frozen again

[porthole]

Don't have instructions but assuming this is the proper use for the oil pump alignment pins.
Just snug them down and let the taper align the pump to the bolt holes.

[Boatman]

According to the MOCO service manual-

install 6 screws (outer) in cam support plate and tighten to 90-120 in #'s in proper order

start 2 allen screws in oil pump holes 3 and 4

Put alignment pins in holes 1 and 2

While rotating the engine, alternately snug and tighten the pins to 40-45 in #'s

Alternately tighten 3 and 4 to 40-45 in #'s (not rotating)

Remove pin from hole 1 and install screw and tighten screw to 40-45

remove pin from hole 2 and install and tighten screw to 40-45

final tighten all 4 screws to 90-120 in#'s (final tightening order 1, 2 , 3 ,4)

page 3-50 of 2005 touring manual




 

[porthole]

final tighten all 4 screws to 90-120 in#'s (final tightening order 1, 2 , 3 ,4)

Everything I have read "outside" of the manual notes you have to be careful with torquing to the max spec, as it tends to strip out the holes where the alignment dowels are.

Bob will be here at 9 or so with his box of tricks, with any luck it will be done today!

Got some new maps from HDDude so we should be able to have the new cams purr along nicely.

[Boatman]

Everything I have read "outside" of the manual notes you have to be careful with torquing to the max spec, as it tends to strip out the holes where the alignment dowels.

I believe the paper work with the S&S gear drives came with a lower torque now that you mentioned it.  I also "think" it said to use blue loctite on the allen threads.
Happy to hear he (Bob) is almost running again.

[porthole]

So, we had our box of stuff today.

This picture shows the tool I made from a socket to knock the roll pin out holding the oil pressure spring in. This was before talking to Jim and finding out the "no special tool" method.

[porthole]

Gears pressed onto cams, bearings pressed into cam plate, cams pressed into bearings.

No pictures of this as we had to run to my buddies shop to use the press.

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Screamin Eagle billet cam plate, nicely made too.