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[Ghost Rider]

Ghostrider,

I would suggest using the Harley 10.5 to 1 pistons they are a top shelf item, even when compared to after market.  The second comment is I would look to the 55 mm throttlebody over the 51.   These heads even in their most basic form like air.   You will notice that in 08 Harley released the bikes with a 50mm over the 07 version of the 46 mm.   There aftermarket is a 58 mm.   I personally would not go smaller than a 55 and have the 58 on my bike.

HD 22502-07 Forged Piston

I would recommend using Jenny or Lakeshore for your parts.

Just to be clear.  I'm not making suggestions.  I was asked what I did on my bike.  My engine builder chose what he felt was the best combination of parts for the low end torque we were trying to achieve.  Others have gone with bigger throttle bodies and have had good results, its your bike your choice.  Also, I'll take my CP pistons over anything off the Harley shelf.

[Magellan]

Just to be clear.  I'm not making suggestions.  I was asked what I did on my bike.  My engine builder chose what he felt was the best combination of parts for the low end torque we were trying to achieve.  Others have gone with bigger throttle bodies and have had good results, its your bike your choice.  Also, I'll take my CP pistons over anything off the Harley shelf.

Hi Ghostrider,

I just took a lool on the CP website but couldn't see any pistons for a 110? Do you know the part number as I am trying to get a quote for them from their European distibutor. They are German and can't seem to do anything without the number! Any help would be appreciated.

Regards - Magellan 

[skyhook]

the problem with harley throttle bodies is the manifold...the '08 stock 50mm, the SE 50mm and the 58 mm all flow poorly...Hpinc or even zippers blows them away

[Ghost Rider]

Hi Ghostrider,

I just took a lool on the CP website but couldn't see any pistons for a 110? Do you know the part number as I am trying to get a quote for them from their European distibutor. They are German and can't seem to do anything without the number! Any help would be appreciated.

Regards - Magellan 

I will see if I can find out.  I've got all of my paperwork at home.

[Magellan]

I will see if I can find out.  I've got all of my paperwork at home.

I appreciate the help - thank you very much.

[Magellan]

Kiwi Keith,

Have you made any decisions yet on what to do with your bike? 

[Hoist!]

Try this guys:

http://www.axtellsales.com/

sku 800-825 Go to Twin Cam, then TC Street Pistons, then 4" stroker pistons.

4.000 STREET STROKER SERIES PISTON
SKU: 800-825
Price:  $393.50 KIT
Axtell's reverse dome piston. We developed this piston for 4 3/8" strokes and to retain stock engine height. We also designed a 10cc reverse dome for the engine builder who wants a more manageable compression ratio (9.7:1). This piston works well in any stroke combination where frame clearance is a concern.

I'd use their barrels too!!!

Hoist!
 

[Magellan]

Try this guys:

http://www.axtellsales.com/

sku 800-825 Go to Twin Cam, then TC Street Pistons, then 4" stroker pistons.

Wow! Just had a quick look at that site - shocked at just how many pistons there are to choose from. That is really scarry for a mechanical numbnut like me. I just wouldn't know where to start! 

[kiwi]

Kiwi Keith,

Have you made any decisions yet on what to do with your bike? 

Hi Coolblue, Working through the options now although the build that Ghost Rider did got him what I am after. More torque low and midrange. I am thinking 2-1 pipe though instead of true duals. Looking into the RB Racings Black Hole Pipe. Anyone know anything first hand about these pipes?
Will post what I do to the engine along with the results good or bad as it may help someone else out who is reading these posts. Be a few more weeks probably before any work will begin as we are still going through options and possibilities then we will have to order in the parts prior to taking the engine down.

Later, Kiwi

[kiwi]

Welcome aboard kiwielf! Glad to have a fellow B/I SERK3 owner from the other side of the world!

The SE 251 has works out to be a very good match with the 110. It will work with stock US spec stock springs.  I would use a 2:1 exhaust like D&D FatCat with quiet muffler, 50mm throttle body, S&S adjustable pushrods, and new lifters. SE camplate if you have some extra $.

The US cam is the CVO 255. The 253 is the CVO 103 cam.

The 258 will also need higher compression and headwork to perform well. This is a more heavily modifed top end than the 251 job above.

Good luck with your mods! I'd love to come join you over there with my bike sometime! Enjoy this great site man!

Hoist!

Hoist can you tell me what the advantage is of new lifters and also what the SE camplate will do. This may sound silly BUT wouldn't a Screaming Eagla Engine already contain the Screaming Eagle Cam Plate?
Cheers, Kiwi

[Hoist!]

I wouldn't go with higher compression like Travis did, unless you're doing the headwork and cams to match. You guys should be talking to an engine designer of your choice, not going by what a buncha bozos on the internet have to say!

Hoist can you tell me what the advantage is of new lifters and also what the SE camplate will do. This may sound silly BUT wouldn't a Screaming Eagla Engine already contain the Screaming Eagle Cam Plate?
Cheers, Kiwi

The lifters move the pushrods, which move the rocker arms to open and close the valves in the heads. IMO, these parts wear into each other, and I'd only replace all components, not just one of the 3. That's me. You might find others telling you it's OK. I'd rather be safe than sorry, and have them all new, and wear in to each other together.

Our motors come with the standard hydraulic TC camplate, not the SE. The SE or Feuling Billet Camplate is a much stronger than stock, and has much chance (if any at all) of flexing, maintaining the proper position of all components where they belong. Much more important if going gear drive. The current hydraulic chain tensioner system is more reliable than the older chain drive, and some leave it alone rather than converting to gear drive. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO GO GEAR DRIVE WITHOUT CHECKING CRANK RUNOUT FIRST. YOU MUST HAVE EXCELLENT RUNOUT TO GO GEAR DRIVE OR YOU RISK TAKING YOUR ENTIRE ENGINE OUT IF YOU MASH THE GEARS DUE TO POOR RUNOUT!!!

Hoist!

[Magellan]

I wouldn't go with higher compression like Travis did, unless you're doing the headwork and cams to match. You guys should be talking to an engine designer of your choice, not going by what a buncha bozos on the internet have to say!


Our motors come with the standard hydraulic TC camplate, not the SE. The SE or Feuling Billet Camplate is a much stronger than stock, and has much chance (if any at all) of flexing, maintaining the proper position of all components where they belong. Much more important if going gear drive.
Hoist!

So Hoist if I am doing the cams, pistons, AC and TB is that the 'headwork' you refer to, or is there more?
I agree about talking to an engineer, but I want to have some idea about what we should be talking about before I start the converstaion.

Also as I do not intend going near the gear drive are you saying that the SE Camplate is still a good idea? I appreciate that this may just be your opinion, but I am still interested to hear it. As I have (probably) said many times (although I am learning) I just don't know anything about this mechanical chit! I spend most of my days in partial-differential equations ... and chewing lots of pencils!

[Magellan]

Hi Coolblue, Working through the options now although the build that Ghost Rider did got him what I am after. More torque low and midrange. I am thinking 2-1 pipe though instead of true duals. Looking into the RB Racings Black Hole Pipe. Anyone know anything first hand about these pipes?
Will post what I do to the engine along with the results good or bad as it may help someone else out who is reading these posts. Be a few more weeks probably before any work will begin as we are still going through options and possibilities then we will have to order in the parts prior to taking the engine down.

Later, Kiwi

Hi Keith,

I quite liked the sound of GhostRiders set-up too. Although I like the look of those 'pointy forward' AC things like the SE one, or the S&S version (just 'cos its blue to match the bike!). I gather from some of these threads that 2-1 exhaust will definitely give you more, but for me that is too much of a trade-off on the appearance, so I will have to go either True Duals (which look so clean) or stick with the cross-over.

Do your bikes have the active exhaust flappers? And if so what are you going to do about them?

Regards - Magellan 

[Hoist!]

So Hoist if I am doing the cams, pistons, AC and TB is that the 'headwork' you refer to, or is there more?
I agree about talking to an engineer, but I want to have some idea about what we should be talking about before I start the converstaion.

Also as I do not intend going near the gear drive are you saying that the SE Camplate is still a good idea? I appreciate that this may just be your opinion, but I am still interested to hear it. As I have (probably) said many times (although I am learning) I just don't know anything about this mechanical chit! I spend most of my days in partial-differential equations ... and chewing lots of pencils!

If you can afford to do the camplate, I'd do it. It's a much stronger camplate. But you're not doing anything wrong staying with the stock if your build is a mild one.

Headwork means just that. They do custom work on your heads. They customize the heads to work with the rest of the package they design for you. This could include custom porting, combustion chamber rework, port or valve size changes, decking (shaving them for higher CR), and whatever the designer sees fit to meet the design. A good designer will interview you to determine the type of bike, type of rider, weights involved, and desire results of the build. He will then recommend a complete package to accomplish that goal. You can't just go bolting components on the bike and expect it to work OK, unless you're REALLY lucky! These components must all be properly matched to work harmoniously together to yield the desired result. Anything less than that is just pissing in the wind!

Hi Keith,

I quite liked the sound of GhostRiders set-up too. Although I like the look of those 'pointy forward' AC things like the SE one, or the S&S version (just 'cos its blue to match the bike!). I gather from some of these threads that 2-1 exhaust will definitely give you more, but for me that is too much of a trade-off on the appearance, so I will have to go either True Duals (which look so clean) or stick with the cross-over.

Do your bikes have the active exhaust flappers? And if so what are you going to do about them?

Regards - Magellan 

I would also try to use the 2:1 exhaust. The D&D FatCat is about the best there is, and matches very nicely to a 110. You can pick a muffler for it to match your build too! JMO!

Hoist!

[Fired00d]

Hi Coolblue, Working through the options now although the build that Ghost Rider did got him what I am after. More torque low and midrange. I am thinking 2-1 pipe though instead of true duals. Looking into the RB Racings Black Hole Pipe. Anyone know anything first hand about these pipes?
Will post what I do to the engine along with the results good or bad as it may help someone else out who is reading these posts. Be a few more weeks probably before any work will begin as we are still going through options and possibilities then we will have to order in the parts prior to taking the engine down.

Later, Kiwi

I believe there is at least one thread on the forum pertaining to that pipe that you can search for. Don't remember the specifics though.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d