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[04se103]

This the bit i used 

[dartman]

Okay, now that I have read all 17 pages of this thread after grinding through the muffler body on the first weld, which tool was finally recommended.  I used an 8 in long carbide cutter, which did remove some weld but I went through the muffler body.  I can't get the dremel tool into the muffler enough to use either the cutter bit first recommended nor the stone bit recommended further into the thread (page 5 or 6 I think).  Someone else recommended a carbide pad, but didn't show it or provide a link to see one.  I read where some ground a while and then slept on it, I did that too, just haven't started back up yet.  What did everyone who ground through do to cover the hole?  Leave it, cover it with the new baffle, fill in weld?  
Boy this thread went from baffles to tuning to reflector removal to lowers and speaker mods.  Glad no one mentioned windshields in here.  I still would like to know which bit, which tool.  I am going to look at dremel site, but don't think they make longer bits.    

Once you do a few this is a fairly simple task, but like any delicate surgery you need a lot of light,  I also use an adjustable magnifying glass. These grinding bits aren't as fast as the carbide cutters, but by design they are far less likely to penetrate the muffler body, I stone will do approx 2 mufflers http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/63-378-hobby-bits-grinding/dremel-grinding-stone-272377.aspx

[bobroadglide]

Okay, I am off to Lowe's for the grinding stones that Dartman suggested, and I think I will try to following also:
Dremel Flex-Shaft Attachment
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94685-353-225-01&lpage=none

What did everyone who cut through the muffler body do about that?

[04se103]

What did everyone who cut through the muffler body do about that? I did not cut through the mufflers when doing mine how bad is it ? But I do have a spare set of mufflers that have the factory baffles removed I might sell if that helps

[dartman]

Okay, I am off to Lowe's for the grinding stones that Dartman suggested, and I think I will try to following also:
Dremel Flex-Shaft Attachment
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=94685-353-225-01&lpage=none

What did everyone who cut through the muffler body do about that?

If you cut through slightly on the bottom side, your puncture should  be very close to where the hole for the baffle bolt would be located, if your a little off center no one will notice.

[db1945]

 Hello,dremel makes a small cutting wheel about the size of a nickel,it has a very small hole in the middle for the screw that attaches it to a dremel grinding arbor.You can buy both at wal mart,Lowes,or home depot,I found it best leave the muffler on the bike for this step,you can do as you like,start at the top of one of the 3 welds(where the weld touches the baffle) work slowly,you will need several of these disk,so buy accordingly.I used the dremel without the small grinding attachment.Let me know how it goes.

[KODAGRIN]

Thanks,  nice pictures!

[LarryB]

sorry to jump in here, but spent the day riding.
the Only bit to use on this is the grinding wheel on the dremel. do not use any cutting wheels or bits  or such. mistakes can happen too fast with those. the abrashive wheel is forgiving if you veer off. you shouldn't need an extension or flexable shaft. do the work with the mufflers on the bike, set up camp, and grind away. have a rubber mallet close by, when you think you are close on both welds tap on the baffle trying to drive it forward. keep this routine up till it breaks free, then remove the rest of the weld and pull the baffle out.
if you do cut through the muffler, hopefully on the bottom, it should be on or in the rear of the new baffle flange and all is good. and since you will drill for a new mount you have the adjustability to cover up.

[Heatwave]

When using the dremel to "grind" the welds, its important not to use a cutting wheel. Make sure you're using a grinding wheel and slowly take your time and this is a rather simple and straight-forward project. If you're the kind of person who get's impatient and tries to rush the grinding (or worse - a cutting wheel), you're almost sure to make a mistake and end up going through the muffler.

As others have already suggested. Its best to take the tips off and leave the mufflers on the bike while doing the grinding. You'll have a much more stable position for the grinding. Once the grinding is nearly complete, then you can remove the mufflers and hold it between your knees for the last little bit of grinding needed to release the baffles. I found a sharp drop on the baffle end on a concrete floor covered with a blanket, would make the remaining weld crack. I then used a strap wrench around the baffle to twist it out. Add a little WD40 and the baffle will slide right out. Then you can either leave the packing in or slide it out also. Be careful, the fiberglass packing is somewhat sharp.

The other aspect that made the project quite easy for me was using a 3' flex extension adapter on my dremel. By using the extension, the body of the dremel motor stayed out of the way while trying to maneuver inside the muffler body. A bright light is critical for the grinding and you really can't have too much light.

If you use the dremel extension, have lot's of light, keep changing to fresh grinding wheels and take your time, this is an easy project that can be done in a couple of hours.

[guppytrash]

Focus on grinding the weld on the baffle lip, when the lip is flush with the exhaust your weld should be gone. 
Think of it as notching the lip of the baffle until flush with the exterior pipe.
 

[04se103]

Oh Larry you so Bad   

[guppytrash]

YEA!
And take your time.

[bobroadglide]

okay, so finally got both baffles out.  The first one was real difficult, after I got the weld ground down and the baffle pushed forward slightly, I could not get the baffle backwards and out.  Called Steve and he said use a 1 inch tube or dowel.  I was using a 1 1/4 socket and was just spreading inlet of the baffle.  Stuck a 1 inch socket on a 18 inch extension, dropped the muffler on the workbench and the baffle flew out so fast it surprised me.  The second baffle removal was easier, The weld was much smaller, I wonder if the first baffle weld was re-welded by hand.  Removing the baffle after the weld was ground down was more difficult than the first one.  But just as Steve said, they sometimes stick at the brackets.  It did, ended up distorting the baffle flange but I did get it out with only two blood blisters.  Hope Steve can afford the loss of a baffle recore job, his advise saved me $199 plus shipping two ways.  Now for my order of the Stage One kit.... 

[LarryB]

way to go Bob

[baggerben]

i used a piece of rebar and did the same. poped the stock baffel right out.
i couldnt get the new baffels to line up right. i thought i was retarted.
called steve and sure enough i didnt have the new baffles line up straight. o well.