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[sadunbar]

How about a 3/4" copper tubing coupling and a 5/8 deep socket...  Cheap and easy...  Here are some pictures I borrowed from another site explaining it...

[sadunbar]

How about a 3/4" copper tubing coupling and a 5/8 deep socket...  Cheap and easy...  Here are some pictures I borrowed from another site explaining it...

[sadunbar]

DAYUM TOOLS ARE EXPENSIVE !!!!!


I had the following tools on my list to 'buy' but after getting the prices ...... I am now on a quest to find someone that I can borrow them from .... or hang the parts on the wall just for the WOW factor in case someone who really does wrench on their bike will have something to look at    ............


ck these tools and the COST !

• Lifter block (Tappet guide) alignment tool HD-33443 – $33 ea (need at least 2)
• Belt tension gauge HD-35381 – $40 ea ---- I suppose there are 'other' ways to measure the tension.... homemade device should be too hard to come up with  Fish scale and steel ruler...

I don't even know HOW to use these two tools, but believe that I need them for the build 
• Piston pin retaining ring installer HD-34623b – $150 ea
• Piston ring compressing tool HD-96333-51C – $180 ea  EBAY!!!  lots of cheaper options...



I'm not spending that kind of money on ONE TIME USE tools...... has to be another way..



got any ideas or suggestions ...?
you know, something 'real' that I might be able to pursue

Thanks for you help !!


Mikey

The problem with all of the tools you listed is the "HD" in the part number!   Visit George's Garage!  http://www.georges-garage.com/   

[fxr4mikey]

sadunbar - THANKS for the pictures for the piston circlip installation .... I'm sure that I'll be getting me a copper coupling
 8)and the pointer to George's !!


You're so right too about that HD prefix on the tools   

[Bullwinkle]

Jireh Cycles (jirehcycles.com) also has a pretty good price on tools.  As with everything else, some prices are better than others, but overall they are -very- reasonable.

Their web site needs some work, at least the search function.  For example, a search on "lifter block alignment" turned up 30 hits.  One was the alignment tool from Crane at $9.99 and the rest were general lifter related and unrelated stuff such as tappets, tappet blocks, a speedometer block off plate, and a rear axle block adjuster among other things.

I'c call them and get their catalog, it will be a huge help.  As I said, their prices are among the best I've seen.

Bullwinkle

[Hoist!]

Jireh Cycles (jirehcycles.com) also has a pretty good price on tools.  As with everything else, some prices are better than others, but overall they are -very- reasonable.

Their web site needs some work, at least the search function.  For example, a search on "lifter block alignment" turned up 30 hits.  One was the alignment tool from Crane at $9.99 and the rest were general lifter related and unrelated stuff such as tappets, tappet blocks, a speedometer block off plate, and a rear axle block adjuster among other things.

I'c call them and get their catalog, it will be a huge help.  As I said, their prices are among the best I've seen.

Bullwinkle

I couldn't find any engine tools there Bullwinkle. Is this the right site?

http://www.jirehcycles.com/

Hoist!

[Bullwinkle]

It's the right site, for sure.  Their search function stinks, but the prices are worth it.

I did a search on "tools" and didn't turn up much of anything.  A search on "tool" turned up about 95 hits.  Did a search on "clutch tool" and got 434 hits, but likely about 400 of them were useless.  Well, not useless, but not clutch tools.  Adjustment screws, clutch packs, bearing kits, retainer plates, and the like.

Here is the URL for the lifter alignment screws:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000135a~Z5Z5Z5CABTE~P9.99~~~~S2JT1E6Y2Y21622715416c~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000123a

I noticed the forum software broke the line, so you may need to copy & paste.

Their catalogs are free, so if you like what you see, I'd call them and get one.  Their shipping is free if you buy more than $75.00 (at least it was last time I ordered from them) and they have a wide product line, including James & Cometic gaskets.

I'm not connected with them in any way, but with things as they are, sometimes we need a break on prices.

Bullwinkle

[Hoist!]

It's the right site, for sure.  Their search function stinks, but the prices are worth it.

I did a search on "tools" and didn't turn up much of anything.  A search on "tool" turned up about 95 hits.  Did a search on "clutch tool" and got 434 hits, but likely about 400 of them were useless.  Well, not useless, but not clutch tools.  Adjustment screws, clutch packs, bearing kits, retainer plates, and the like.

Here is the URL for the lifter alignment screws:

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000135a~Z5Z5Z5CABTE~P9.99~~~~S2JT1E6Y2Y21622715416c~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000123a

I noticed the forum software broke the line, so you may need to copy & paste.

Their catalogs are free, so if you like what you see, I'd call them and get one.  Their shipping is free if you buy more than $75.00 (at least it was last time I ordered from them) and they have a wide product line, including James & Cometic gaskets.

I'm not connected with them in any way, but with things as they are, sometimes we need a break on prices.

Bullwinkle

Thanks for the info Bullwinkle!

Hoist!

[fxr4mikey]

Bullwinkle thanks for the link and info ! 2vrolijk_21

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey~~~

Do you know the difference between Static Compression and Corrected Compression? No, not exactly, what do I need to know ?

I am not trying to ask you a "trick" question, merely trying to evaluate what you think you will be building with all of your new parts.....
My research shows that I should have something close to 9.5:1 using the SE heads and STOCK pistons.  And I might squeeze just a wee bit more by going with the cometic .030 head gasket .......  a mild build

Regards,

Tim

Tim,
I am not sure what you're asking me .................. let me give it a shot, and you and the others can help me get it worked out correctly

static compression is a measurement of the combustion chamber.  Take the volume of the combustion chamber when the piston is BDC and divide it by the volume of the combustion chamber when the piston is TDC ...........

I lifted this from another site:
In simple terms: for static CR, the first number is the chamber volume at BDC, second number is chamber volume at TDC...the higher the first number is, the more squeeze you have. More squeeze improves burn up to a certain point. This point varies for each engine design.

for my build:
the SE heads have larger than stock 1.898" intake valves and 1.623" exhaust valves and are equipped with Valve Spring Kit P/N 18223-98 (not that the valves or springs have anything to do with compression, they do not, I just listed that cause I have the info). At 72cc, this equates to a 9.5:1 compression ratio with stock pistons.

I'm going to install a cometic .030 head gasket, so this will increase the compression ratio just a bit more than what is stated above.

Given the chamber volume of 72cc, and stock pistons, and cometic .030 head gaskets I should have a CCP (cold cranking pressure) of 179.5 lbs @sea level, and a static compression of 9.53:1 and a corrected compression of 8.78:1 using the Wood W6 cam

 
Is this right ?

Thanks,
Mikey






and you know what, I don't really know what all this means   

I mean, I get the terms, and can run the calculators, and I have the picture in my brain of how the internals work, but I'm not a race engine builder,,,,,,,,, heck, I've never had ANY engine open before  ...  I get the basis of it all (I think) ....  you know, if the CR is too high, it creates to much pressure, and heat, which could cause detonation, and robs power .....
However, I'm sure that this build doesn't even come close to creating those types of problems.     







now, as far as 'corrected compression' is concerned, what is it that you would like to teach me   


I'm WIDE OPEN for EDUCATION !!!! 

especially now, before I start into this thing .... I hope within the next couple of weeks !!!

[Bullwinkle]

Tim posted some excellent information.  It is tough to read and understand without having a picture of the engine cycles in mind while trying to comprehend a complicated subject.

To make corrected compression simple, let's only consider the end of the intake stroke and the beginning of the compression stroke.

Regardless of the static compression ratio, the cam timing affects corrected compression.  Consider:  The piston is on the way down, drawing in the intake charge.  If the intake valve closes when the piston reaches BDC, then the piston can not push out the charge through the open valve.  This is not a practical situation, since performance depends on the momentum of the incoming intake charge to fill the cylinder.

Now, to the real events.  The intake valve closes while the piston is going up in the cylinder, past bottom dead center.  This affects the corrected compression since, at low engine rpm, a certain amount of the charge is pushed out through the valve and back into the intake port, sometimes out the carb throat.  The later the valve closes, the more of the charge gets pushed out through the open valve.  That is the corrected compression ratio.  This happens to a greater extent at lower RPM, but the CCR is a function of SCR and intake valve closing point.

You can visualize the intake valve closing at, say 30 degrees after the piston reaches bottom dead center will push less of the mixture out than if the intake valve closed at 40 degrees after BDC.  Even if you use the same cam duration but use a key or a gear to retard the cam timing so it closes later, your CCR will drop, since more mixture can (will) be pushed out before the valve closes.

If you have a big enough cam, this allows you to run higher compression for better high rpm power while not detonating at the low RPM range.

The trick is to match the cam with the compression ratio and the exhaust pipe.  If you can do that, you have a good runner on your hands.

Bullwinkle

[fxr4mikey]

 
 here's the specs on the Wood W6 cam.  I'll call them tomorrow and ask the techs:  at what CCR does this cam perform best at, minimal, and maximum

 
     
Part #     .053      .053          Valve    Lift       Springs    Application
W6              timing    duration      lift       TDC 
----------------------------------------------------------------------                   
                  20/40     240           .510     .189      Stock       Bolt in Street/Touring. Very strong from idle through 5500 RPM. Light or heavy bike.

[Bullwinkle]

I have an FXR3 with cut SE heads and a cam with the same intake close as the W6.  It blows 205 CCP.  I only have a few hundred miles so have been hesitant to twist its tail, but it should be fun.

I think the heads CC at about 72 or so.  Branch worked on them, so the combustion chamber was about 76, 77CC or so.  It took about a .050 cut to bring them back down.

Bullwinkle

[fxr4mikey]

I have an FXR3 with cut SE heads and a cam with the same intake close as the W6.  It blows 205 CCP.  I only have a few hundred miles so have been hesitant to twist its tail, but it should be fun.

I think the heads CC at about 72 or so.  Branch worked on them, so the combustion chamber was about 76, 77CC or so.  It took about a .050 cut to bring them back down.

Bullwinkle

the SE heads I have are supposed to have a 72CC combustion chamber, according to the documentation (I haven't CC'd them myself) .............  but I'm running stock pistons, or am planing to .... you running stock pistons ?

[RedFXR2]

Pop quiz tomorrow?

Just kiddiing.  Thanks for the tutorial.

Wow, I only touched on this level of detail when I picked my cam a couple of years ago.  I knew I was going with the SE heads and my method of cam choice was to read a lot of articles and books, and talk to other Evo owners about their cam choices and why.  There are seemingly a jillion Evo cams out there--I ended up with the EV27 and have always liked it.  I completely agree that the RPM range of most effectivity should be a deciding factor.  Like Tim, I didn't have any use for a cam that peaks at 6000 RPM.  I'd much rather feel it at 1500-4500 or so.

So Mikey, when do the wrenches start turning on this thing?  Let me know when to be at your house.  I'll provide the first case of beer.