Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[sadunbar]

Mikey!!  Great job documenting your build process and progress!     You are doing a fantastic job!

Just one thing....  just for me....  next time you do one of these - you might want to clean all the old gasket material from your lifter block mounting surfaces before you start the new assembly!!!  Be careful not to drop any of the old stuff down the lifter bores when you get that far!!  (sorry, my anal nature peeks thru)

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey!!  Great job documenting your build process and progress!     You are doing a fantastic job!

Just one thing....  just for me....  next time you do one of these - you might want to clean all the old gasket material from your lifter block mounting surfaces before you start the new assembly!!!  Be careful not to drop any of the old stuff down the lifter bores when you get that far!!  (sorry, my anal nature peeks thru)

You're right, and I plan to do that ...... I haven't put the cam cover back on yet --  well, it's on in that picture, but only for checking the camshaft endplay after installing the new cam bearing ...... then I removed the cover again to set the alignment and install the breather ..... so I might just pull the camshaft out, clean up those lifter block mounting surfaces, and if anything falls into the cam chest I can clean it out.

I also have to clean up the surfaces for the cylinders ......

Next time I'm gonna have to clean up before the pictures .... so yall won't think I'm such a slob   


Thanks for taking time to post up and to remind me !

[FXR2evo99]

WHAT, WHAT, WHAT.......NO COMMENT ABOUT THE BOLTS? ? ? ? ?

Ok, Ok, Ok....Ok, Ok...Ok.......feeling like Joe Pesci (Lethal Weapon)

 

LAUGHING!!!!!!

 

Never mind.....lol

Regards,

Tim

[fxr4mikey]

WHAT, WHAT, WHAT.......NO COMMENT ABOUT THE BOLTS? ? ? ? ?


YES, YES, and YES,  I have comments about your posts and the bolts ........  !!!!!!!!!   
I was feeling LAZY tonight and didn't feel like putting my lil brain through the process of 'THINKING' and therefore posting up somthing that makes sense......
 
You can STAY TUNED to this space, and I WILL respond   

Ok, Ok, Ok....Ok, Ok...Ok.......feeling like Joe Pesci (Lethal Weapon)

 

LAUGHING!!!!!!

 

Never mind.....lol

NO, it's OK, Really ..... I did think about responding today ... just to lazy

Regards,

Tim

I will say though, I was surprised that you didn't have any response to my last post here about the method that I plan to use to BREAK-IN my new build  ?

[FXR2evo99]

Essentially you are doing the "Joe Mintion" break-in procedure.....and it's a good one....
Mikey I believe in you.......
Regards,

Tim

[skreminegul07]

Nice picks, Mikey.  Reminds me of the time while rebuilding a small block Chevy L79 with a buddy.  I loved opening all the new little boxes and puttin it all together while having a few cold ones.  Then we sat and looked at the motor on the stand, all painted up and ready to go.  During clean up of all the little boxes, I found a rod bearing half.  Yikes.  Instead of stripping the whole motor, I opted to put a wrench on the crank and turn it a little each way.  Low and behold, one of the pistons had a bit of lag.

New rule, no beer until the job is done.

BTW, nice Corian top on the garage cabinets.  I furnished my shop with the kitchen take offs, which is not as nice looking as yours.

[FXR2evo99]

well there you have it....Mikey beer and nuts.....NO NO NO....lol

but BOLTS YES YES YES.....

I can't stop myself!!!!!!

 

Regards,

Tim

[revinkevin]

lookin good mikey 

[fxr4mikey]

Nice picks, Mikey.  Reminds me of the time while rebuilding a small block Chevy L79 with a buddy.  I loved opening all the new little boxes and puttin it all together while having a few cold ones.  Then we sat and looked at the motor on the stand, all painted up and ready to go.  During clean up of all the little boxes, I found a rod bearing half.  Yikes.  Instead of stripping the whole motor, I opted to put a wrench on the crank and turn it a little each way.  Low and behold, one of the pistons had a bit of lag.

New rule, no beer until the job is done.

BTW, nice Corian top on the garage cabinets.  I furnished my shop with the kitchen take offs, which is not as nice looking as yours.

I was already finished working on her for the day when those two beers went down 

I got lucky on the kitchen take offs .... friends across the street started a remodel about 6 months ago and were going to THROW AWAY all the cabinets 

so I grabbed up all the usable base units and the counter tops, and a couple of the wall units.

Currently the base units are in the garage being put to excellent use for the build. I have all of the doors too, but thought that they'd be easier to use during the build without the doors on them.  I don't know if I'm gonna leave em in the garage after the build or not.  I orginally intended to put them in my woodworking shop in the basement. That's where the wall units are getting hung too.   I was LUCKY 

[fxr4mikey]

well there you have it....Mikey beer and nuts.....NO NO NO....lol

but BOLTS YES YES YES.....

I can't stop myself!!!!!!

 

Regards,

Tim

Yur CRACKIN ME UP Tim !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

[fxr4mikey]

Mikey:  Great photo "walk-through" of the process.  Thanks.

About cleaning fastener threads--I've always done that on mechainical projects just because I'm picky that way and it seems like the right thing to do.  Never bothered to search for scientific justification.  Although I do believe that old loctite, sealer, just plain dirt, etc.,  would affect torque values.

Mike -

I don't dispute that those items have 'some' effect on torque values .... HOW MUCH ?

Given that every bolt has a "RANGE" for it's torque value, and the torque wrench has some +- tolerance in it, if you set your torque wrench to the middle of the value range, how much are you gonna be off ?

If you clean the bolts ...... do you also 'CHASE' all the 'fixed nuts' (receivers) with a tap ?  Or do you have another method that you use for that ?

If you use a metal brush, on a small sale, on a dremel let's say, and you run that into the recivers .... then what do you do about all the fine metal dust and particles left behind by such a cleaning ?


Oh yeah, and Tim, and Blaine, feel free to jump in here too   


 

[fxr4mikey]

"....I would add that I have used these opportunities in the past to replace old fasteners with chrome ~~

In thinking about this....I would suppose that the bolts to question changing would be the following when considering this particular modification of one's cam's and replacing of one's cylinder heads like Mikey has done...:

1) cam case cover bolts
2) lifter cover bolts
3) Rocker cover bolts
~~


Regards,

Tim

anyone know of a good source for these chrome bolts ?  reasonable prices and good shipping cost ?   or just go to the stealer and order them ?

seems that when I first came over here someone, someplace posted up about buying an ENTIRE CHROME BOLT KIT for an EVO ..... anyone remember that ?  Do you know where that post is ?

[sadunbar]

Mike -

I don't dispute that those items have 'some' effect on torque values .... HOW MUCH ?

Given that every bolt has a "RANGE" for it's torque value, and the torque wrench has some +- tolerance in it, if you set your torque wrench to the middle of the value range, how much are you gonna be off ?

If you clean the bolts ...... do you also 'CHASE' all the 'fixed nuts' (receivers) with a tap ?  Or do you have another method that you use for that ?

If you use a metal brush, on a small sale, on a dremel let's say, and you run that into the recivers .... then what do you do about all the fine metal dust and particles left behind by such a cleaning ?


Oh yeah, and Tim, and Blaine, feel free to jump in here too   


 

Actually, I have an undersize tap set - clean the threads but don't cut metal..... 

[sadunbar]

anyone know of a good source for these chrome bolts ?  reasonable prices and good shipping cost ?   or just go to the stealer and order them ?

seems that when I first came over here someone, someplace posted up about buying an ENTIRE CHROME BOLT KIT for an EVO ..... anyone remember that ?  Do you know where that post is ?

My advice....don't use chrome...the chrome will chip and then rust!  Use polished stainless steel....  You can buy "show polish" stainless steel bolt kits on Ebay...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stainless-Steel-Engine-Fastener-Kit-for-Harley_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ330286688122QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://stores.ebay.com/STAINLESS-STEEL-CYCLE-HARDWARE

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2006-2009-Harley-Dyna-Polished-Stainless-Allen-Bolt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1209Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem300292544603QQitemZ300292544603QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[fxr4mikey]

Dirty or corroded bolt threads and nut threads
Dirt or corrosion create friction which produces inaccurate torque reading, resulting in under-tightening bolts to proper spec.

VERY interesting, and makes prefect sense to me ........... is it factual, and by HOW MUCH ...... well, we all know that dealers and Indy's don't do this .... so how big a problem might this really be, if any Yes, the SM for the FXR calls for you to lube the cylinder bolt, (don't recall that it says the stud) PRIOR to assembly and torquing it down.  It does not specfiy any 'weight' oil, only to dip it in oil and then wipe off the excess.  This allows the head bolt to turn freely on the stud as you torque it down without the interference of friction, dirt, debris and stuff like that there ........

1999 FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL Page 3-24

Be sure you thoroughly CLEAN and lubricate the cylinder head bolts before tightening to the correct torque.  FRICTION BECAUSE of dirt or grime will CAUSE the torque wrench readings to be incorrect.  CLEAN and lubricate the threads with engine oil and screw the bolts on the cylinder studs to be sure there is no friction.

Same manual, page 3-23, item number 2 at the bottom of the page:
"Dip the bottom face of the cylinder head bolts in oil; then wipe off any excess. Place the cylinder head iin position on the cylinder and install the cylinder head bolts finger tight."

So, on one page the say, dip the face of it, on the next page they say 'lube the threads of the head bolt'  which is it ?

If I'm supposed to LUBE the THREADS, how am I supposed to do that ?  and how do I get any excess oil out of there ... you know, if you leave oil behind it can cause a problem with that bolt not going down all the way, because there's no way to displace the oil that is left up in that bolt .....


~~

If any of us know anything about the evo engine.....it's tempermental when coming to base gasket, rocker housing, rocker cover gasket sealing.....

Ya know, I'm beginning to think that's not the case at all. After 9 years and 27K miles (which ain't much) the only place I had a leak was on both cylinder, and both of them were the base rocker box gaskets.  From the tear down, I say that it was due to the way they were installed at the factory, couple with a poor gasket design at that time.
I'm of the belief that with today's gaskets, and proper assembly, there won't be any leaks...... but hey, what do I know  ... 

~~

But then I wash and dried my rocker covers, rocker housing and actually I washed my cylinder heads before they were shipped out for ccing and "milled" to the level I desired as well....ok so I LIKE TO CLEAN!!! lol.....

I will be washing the cylinder bores, all the rocker boxes and lifter blocks before they go back in ....  I'll post up the pretty SHINNY pics too   

~~