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Author Topic: Cam chain tensioners  (Read 56957 times)

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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #255 on: March 28, 2009, 08:16:15 PM »

The red bike is running.
Not to bad either (just on the jack).

I still have the original map in the ECM. Now I will be playing around with the map trying to get it to run decent until it can go to a dyno.

SERT maps seem to be a rare commodity. Found one of Don's old maps, may work for now while I still have the V&H true duals on. They are being replaced with D&D 2-1 soon as the head pipes come back from Jet Hot.

I used the new SE billet hydraulic cam plate and pump. Replaced the rear bearings with the Torrington (only  bearings my dealer stocks).

Felt comfortable using the old rear chain as my shoes, at 35K miles were in excellent shape, so I must have one of the better chains.

Cams are Zipper's 575 chain drive.

Changed the spring in the oil pump. BTW, the new oil pump does not use an o-ring.

SE pushrods and lifters were used, as well as the new SE pushrod tube tool - that is nice, one hand and no scratches - cuts.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=35194.0


« Last Edit: March 28, 2009, 11:54:08 PM by porthole »
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spydglide

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #256 on: March 28, 2009, 08:34:36 PM »

Duane, you say you changed the spring in the new oil pump?  why?  :confused5: spyder
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hd-dude

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #257 on: March 28, 2009, 11:14:55 PM »

Duane, you say you changed the spring in the new oil pump?  why?  :confused5: spyder

Its the oil pump bypass spring in the camplate. The better spring increases the pressure on the bypass valve which increases oil pressure.

porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #258 on: March 28, 2009, 11:56:38 PM »

There was some question as to whether the new plate has the same oil passages an whether the small o-rings behind the plate get used.
I got 2 o-rings and put them in.

I marked the plate and case and there are corresponding holes on both, so - o-rings in.
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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #259 on: March 28, 2009, 11:57:07 PM »

.
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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #260 on: March 29, 2009, 12:00:15 AM »

Removing or installing the cam and crank sprockets requires a tool to hold the sprockets against each other.
Not a cheap tool, but I have one.

But - the new style plate and sprockets use a different $30 tool to lock them.

I found a much cheaper version in my tool box.
« Last Edit: March 29, 2009, 12:03:11 AM by porthole »
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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #261 on: March 29, 2009, 12:01:29 AM »

All set and hopefully I won't have to put gear drives in to make it run right when I am done.
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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #262 on: March 29, 2009, 12:02:33 AM »

More special tools

Color coordinated push rod tube holder uppers  ;D
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spydglide

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #263 on: March 29, 2009, 09:00:42 AM »

I like your 'special tools'........great pics.  ;) spyder
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porthole

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #264 on: April 06, 2009, 03:52:01 PM »

Have about 100 miles on the new stuff now. For the most part the bike runs good. Definitely need some work with the tune but overall it is a real nice improvement. Still waiting for the D&D head pipes to come back though.

Low end torque feels real good. Pulling into my driveway (concrete and uphill) I cracked the throttle in 1st and left a 10' track on the pavement without really trying.

Think next I'll go out and break the tire loose at 50 mph in 6th just for the fun of it  :D

I have a little bit of a problem with the bike just cutting out for no reason. Mostly at idle.

Oh - and oil pressure is real nice now. Between 20-30 at idle and about 40-45 at cruise. Had 30 before at cruise.
« Last Edit: April 06, 2009, 03:54:11 PM by porthole »
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Mikey

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #265 on: April 11, 2009, 02:20:18 PM »

Wow, nice looking parts and tools!
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chanman

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #266 on: April 21, 2009, 11:17:03 AM »

With continued maintenance for the cam tensioners, what would be the down side of installing the gear drive. I do not know about these things and was hoping someone could educate me. I have been told that once you do a gear drive, problem solved. What do you think the cost comparison is and exactly what does it take to switch out the cam tensioner application for a gear drive?
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timo482

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #267 on: April 21, 2009, 10:41:24 PM »

gear drive is lots more bux

crank run out has to be nearly perfect for gears - can be a tiny bit out with chain

gear drive takes special cams - the new chain conversion uses stock drive cams [any chain drive cam listed for the year of the engine will work with the new chain upgrade]

gear is still better for wild lifts, high hp, high rpm.

if you run 5k rpm all the time then gear drives, timken, welded crank, etc is all a very good idea..

i have not hit 5k rpm now in at least 5 years.

to
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lee champion

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #268 on: May 05, 2009, 03:08:24 PM »

so, on my 2007SERK do i go w Zippers Redshift 575 chain drive as the new moco chain drives are apparantly ok or should i put in gear drives?
going to D&D fatcat 2/1, Tmax tuner, K&N airfilter in SEcleaner
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timo482

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Re: Cam chain tensioners
« Reply #269 on: May 05, 2009, 04:16:07 PM »

on a 07 id do chain

the real issue on a 07 is the crank - if you get it to make big power the crank might move

....

*sigh*

if my 07 ever has any reason to take it even half way apart ill check the runout - if its not nearly perfect ill take it out and have it trued and welded

to
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