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[SE-Randy]

I have heard the you can relocate the temperature sensor for the in-dash temp gauge and get more accurate readings.
1.) Where is the sensor located?
2.) Where do you move the sensor to get the more accurate readings?

Thanks for any help.

Randy

[porthole]

Take it out - throw it away and put an oil temp gauge in it's place.

You can relocate the voltmeter to the temp gauge location and and add the oil temp gauge so it is right above the oil pressure.

[SE-Randy]

OK, but I am not much of a wrench, I can do replacement work. On a 1-10 scale how technical/hard is the oil temp unit swap out?

[porthole]

It is not difficult at all. As long as you don't have monster mitts for hands.

The hardest part is probably taking the fairing off.

On my bike the voltmeter wiring was actually long enough to allow relocating without any cutting and splicing.

You'll have to add an oil temp sending unit and run the wire up the frame - under the tank and into the fairing.

On a 1-10
2-3 maybe?

[grc]

I have heard the you can relocate the temperature sensor for the in-dash temp gauge and get more accurate readings.
1.) Where is the sensor located?
2.) Where do you move the sensor to get the more accurate readings?

Thanks for any help.

Randy

The sensor for the temp gauge is located inside the fairing, clipped to the left side of the main support bracket.  This is the source of the accuracy problem, as the interior of the fairing just gets hotter and hotter both from the headlight and from the sun beating on the fairing.  The way you make the gauge accurate is by moving the sensor out of the fairing and into the actual air flow.  I moved mine to the bottom of the lower fork bracket/triple tree and stuck it in place with 3M molding tape.  The original wire was too short, so I spliced in some extra wire.  Works fine, and unless you stick your head down between the fender and the fairing and look up, you don't see the sensor.  I wish I had taken pictures when I did this a couple years back, but I never seem to remember the pictures until after everything is buttoned back up.

btw, even after you get the gauge to read fairly accurately, the information you will receive still tends to be pretty useless.  Ambient temp gauges may make sense in an enclosed vehicle, but I've found on a motorcycle that I can pretty much tell when it's hot or when it's cold without resorting to a gauge.   The only reason I made mine work correctly is because I'm a hardhead and wanted to prove the damned thing would work if H-D had the brains to put the sensor in a proper location.  Your time would be better spent doing like porthole recommended; chuck the air temp gauge and install a useful gauge in it's place.

Jerry

[SE-Randy]

That was sort of my reasoning as well, just wanted to make it work because I knew it could be done. I am sort of a hard head too. Here I am waiting on the wall to get tired and move.

[Tony Smith]

Has anyone considered changing the Air Temp Gauge to a Air Pressure gauge for the rear shock?  And one step further, install a compressor and up and down buttons through the faring right next to the gauge.??.

[JCZ]

Has anyone considered changing the Air Temp Gauge to a Air Pressure gauge for the rear shock?  And one step further, install a compressor and up and down buttons through the faring right next to the gauge.??.

I think most of us got rid of the stock air shocks as soon as we took delivery.  Most of us replace with Progressive 440 HD.

[grandpadoc]

Since the sensor is close to the halogens its purpose is to tell you if your headlights are working. Willie had this feature built in for safety reasons and you put yoursef at risk by trying to defeat it.    Doc