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[Iglide]

Skip / Hiway,

Mine is not the Hi/Low bulb. Mine has the dual bulbs with HID (Hi Intensity Discharge) Low beam, and a Halogen Hi beam bulb. Two separate bulbs for each headlamp.

I am still confused as to where the new 12v battery wire, ties into the harness for the bulb / ballast assembly in the referenced (HID low and Halogen Hi) set up.

I like the fuse location idea. What gauge wire did you use and how big was the fuse? What did you choose for a fuse holder?

I've got a Hawg Wired system coming and will probably shotgun this whole thing, since the tank will have to come off anyway. I just want to have all the parts in hand when the time comes. I'll take some voltage measurements as I go.

The SERG is a daily rider and I don't want any "daylight" down time during this part of the season, when the weather is so favorable.

 

Thanks
RB

[Highwaystar]

I was able to run a 12 guage wire in the wiring channel under the tank by unbolting and lifting the back of the tank about two inches. I used a wooden block to hold it up and safety wire to fish it though. The wire comes up around the steering neck and to the ballasts. I located the fuse under the seat. I now have a good power source for the lights and more. Any futher switching can be done with a relay.

[Iglide]

I was able to run a 12 gauge wire in the wiring channel under the tank by unbolting and lifting the back of the tank about two inches. I used a wooden block to hold it up and safety wire to fish it though. The wire comes up around the steering neck and to the ballasts. I located the fuse under the seat. I now have a good power source for the lights and more. Any futher switching can be done with a relay.

I have the H4,9003 kit. The power supply wire in the harness (normally used for the Bi-xeon kit) is not used with the 9003 (to the best of my knowledge). I have nothing hooked to that factory wire now. The kit I have does not include a wire to connect to the power supply wire in the factory harness.
What I am trying to gather, is exactly what have you hooked that newly run battery wire to? Which wire in the harness?  

I have the H4 (9003, HB2) Hi/Lo 6000k Automobile HID kit

Please show on the attached diagram where you have connected the 12 ga wire back to the battery.

[Iglide]

Hey, where'd everybody go ??      

[skippy49]

I have the Bi-Xenon which has a power feed to be hooked directly to the battery.  I don't know about the halogen high and xenon low---how it's set up.

[SE Junkie]

I have the exact same problem with a set of Xetronic HIDs for the same bike.  I got them from, Jim (HD-Dude) from Metal Dragon.  He wants me to send the ballast back so he can RMA it.  What a pain in the AAA taking the fairing off 2 more times!

I hope that someone comes up with a solid solution, as now it doesn't sound like I have a ballast problem.

Please keep me in the loop.  Jack   

[Iglide]

Have the xenonlinks with same issue.  I do have the halogen highbeams though.  I have spoken to Mike, the owner of Xenonlink, several times trying to resolve.  I have checked all the connections and installed relays which I got from Mike which did not help.  

My resolution is that I switch to the halogen highs when starting the bike.  Have not had the problem since.  The drop in voltage upon starting seems to be the problem.  I realize this is not an ideal fix but a practical one until I can run a separate line to the battery, probably one that switches off upon starting.  

I am attempting to get in contact with Mike. Could you PM his number to me ?

Thanks Greg,
Rob

[Highwaystar]

The xenon high and low system uses a dedicated power wire from the battery. The xenon low only system will need to have its power source moved from the original head lamp supply to a newly installed wire from the battery to the ballast as described earlier. I think the problem is the normal power interruption (more power to the starter) that is built into the bikes system during start up. It interrupts the ballast during its initial start up and causes failures. Your original halogen system has no problem with interruption or voltage drop. The best plan for new buyers would be selecting the high and low system when choosing xenon. It is more efficient and has no problems.

[Iglide]

The xenon high and low system uses a dedicated power wire from the battery. The xenon low only system will need to have its power source moved from the original head lamp supply to a newly installed wire from the battery to the ballast as described earlier. I think the problem is the normal power interruption (more power to the starter) that is built into the bikes system during start up. It interrupts the ballast during its initial start up and causes failures. Your original halogen system has no problem with interruption or voltage drop. The best plan for new buyers would be selecting the high and low system when choosing xenon. It is more efficient and has no problems.

So, if I run a wire from the battery to the voltage input on the ballast assembly, will that fix my problem? Seems like the lights will be on all the time. Don't recall this issue being discussed earlier. Maybe I missed it. Please refer to my earlier post and the wire diagram. Tell me where to tie in the 12 VDC battery wire.

[skippy49]

So, if I run a wire from the battery to the voltage input on the ballast assembly, will that fix my problem? Seems like the lights will be on all the time. Don't recall this issue being discussed earlier. Maybe I missed it. Please refer to my earlier post and the wire diagram. Tell me where to tie in the 12 VDC battery wire.

  My system had a power feed line clearly marked to be hooked to the battery.  At first I connected it to a hot line in the fairing and my lights would go out.  I then ran a wire directly from the battery to this line and that corrected my problems.  Mine had a tag on it that said to connect directly to the battery, it doesn't match the electrical drawing above.

[Iglide]

My system had a power feed line clearly marked to be hooked to the battery. At first I connected it to a hot line in the fairing and my lights would go out.  I then ran a wire directly from the battery to this line and that corrected my problems.  Mine had a tag on it that said to connect directly to the battery, it doesn't match the electrical drawing above.

Skip,
Please refer to reply #47, The kit I have is diff from yours. And there is no wire to connect to a 12VDC source. My power source is likely from a relay off the battery. And yes, maybe that wire is too small, not sure. I will have to trace that wire (that once supplied the bulb and now supplies the ballast) back to the a relay off the battery supply. If I were to run a wire directly from the battery to the ballast (as suggested) my lights would be on all the time.

 


Problem I have is getting in contact with ANYONE at Xeonlink...... period!
If I crack that fairing and pull the tank to trace that supply wire back to a relay (likely operated by the ignition switch) I would like to change out the faulty ballast at the same time. It seems to me that the ballast should be able to handle the voltage drop associated with starting the engine. I would think a cap or time delay relay would provide this capability.


Got to go to a friends fish fry. Friday night and all......   

[Highwaystar]

One hot wire from the battery to a simple relay mounted near the ballast (from looking at your wiring diagram). switch the relay on and off with the wire from your head lamp wiring high beam. this should fix the low only xenon system. The instructions on line ask for a minimum of 20 amps per lamp. the existing wiring is the problem.    

[2018_FLTRXSE]

One hot wire from the battery to a simple relay mounted near the ballast (from looking at your wiring diagram). switch the relay on and off with the wire from your head lamp wiring high beam. this should fix the low only xenon system. The instructions on line ask for a minimum of 20 amps per lamp. the existing wiring is the problem.    

This was the thread I was looking for.... I am having similar issue and I am about to run dedicated power to the HID relay that powers the ballasts...

Thanks for the tips!

[GregKhougaz]

The older ballasts could not handle the voltage drop when starting.  If you have H4 high beams switch to highs before starting.  I have the newer Xenonlink ballasts which are now smaller too.  No issues when starting. 

GK

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Mine are new style digital ballasts.. but they will still drop one of the other on startup.. and the bi-xenons are unaffected by switching to hi/lo... all it does is move the focus poin, not light a second halogen bulb and power the xenon down...

UPDATE:

After a healthy thrash to make the bike ridable to work tonight... so far, moving the power to the battery instead of the HDI running light plug in the fairing seems to work.

One or the other blinks some times on startup, but never goes out, they stay lit at all times so far.. testing to continue...

now to fix the aim issue.

someone here took off the shrouding for the bulb and it seemed to work but I cannot find the thread... guess I have something to do tonight at work.