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[Scotty]

Scotty
There is nothing saying what your tuner knows and what he doesn't know, however, there is training avalable to the dealers through the MoCo or myself at HDMD Tuning Center to get this information but the dealers have to pay for the tech's education and there isn't too many dealers willing to spend the money to have your bike tuned correctly.
If you feel uncomfortable with them tuning your bike you can always pack up the family (and your bike) come down to Disney World and I will tune your bike while you and the family enjoy Mickey Mouse......lol
Doc 

Thanks for the reply Doc
I wish I lived a little closer to you guys
Scotty in Seattle

[lonewolf55]

Thanks for the reply Doc
I wish I lived a little closer to you guys
Scotty in Seattle

I'm just up north on Vancouver Island

[Doc 1]

I'm just up north on Vancouver Island

Yes he does and I can hang my hat on his tuning ability.....he has beed trained well and knows all the bells and whistles to the TTS......

[Scotty]

I'm just up north on Vancouver Island

Lonewolf55

I will make a note of your reply..Right now my local dealer is doing my build and adding the
new Race Tuner with the dyno tune added in..
When it is all done if I am not happy with the tune
I will probably look your way.  Thanks

[Moonshadow]

I just got my 2010 FLHTK back from the tuner.  They installed the following; SEST, Stage 1 AC, 255 cams, Vance & Hines Power Duals 2-1-2, Twin Slash Rounds.  The dyno came back showing a AFR of 13.2.  The bike now performs Great.  With the discussion on setting the Lamdba and AFR to the type of fuel being used I am in Arizona where they vary to fuel mix between fall and summer how will this affect the performance when they change the mix?  Would the 13.2 considered too rich?  The dyno show Before TQ 80.67 HP 61.49 and After TQ 103.22 HP 85.05.   

[HOGMIKE]

I just got my 2010 FLHTK back from the tuner.  They installed the following; SEST, Stage 1 AC, 255 cams, Vance & Hines Power Duals 2-1-2, Twin Slash Rounds.  The dyno came back showing a AFR of 13.2.  The bike now performs Great.  With the discussion on setting the Lamdba and AFR to the type of fuel being used I am in Arizona where they vary to fuel mix between fall and summer how will this affect the performance when they change the mix?  Would the 13.2 considered too rich?  The dyno show Before TQ 80.67 HP 61.49 and After TQ 103.22 HP 85.05.  

Probably not, but, only at high MAP/RPM.
My tune is showing 13.2 at 95-100% MAP
Some maps are actually running a little richer at high MAP depending on the build, of course.
I would take a look at your closed loop numbers. I hope you are not running the 13.2 across the range!
How about a dyno chart?? Got one that you can post??
 

PS: Welcome to the forum

[Moonshadow]

From the Dyno sheet it looks as though the tuner did use 13.2 across the entire range.  After riding it for a couple of weeks, it feels like a body builder.  Lots of power but cannot move real fast.  Needs lots of protein to keep it running if you get my drift.  If you hold the throttle steady and let it run up in the RPM you have a noticeable surge at around 2800 RPM.  If you look at the AFR on the chart you will notice that the AFR at that range goes up to around 13.4 or so.  I previously had a 2008 Ultra with the same build and AFR was set across the board at around 13.6 and it did not exhibit the body builder symptom and moved out real well.

I am going back to the tuner with it.  What would be suggested to the tuner to correct or look for to correct the the tune.  What in the Lamdba should be changed?

[HOGMIKE]

From the Dyno sheet it looks as though the tuner did use 13.2 across the entire range.  After riding it for a couple of weeks, it feels like a body builder.  Lots of power but cannot move real fast.  Needs lots of protein to keep it running if you get my drift.  If you hold the throttle steady and let it run up in the RPM you have a noticeable surge at around 2800 RPM.  If you look at the AFR on the chart you will notice that the AFR at that range goes up to around 13.4 or so.  I previously had a 2008 Ultra with the same build and AFR was set across the board at around 13.6 and it did not exhibit the body builder symptom and moved out real well.

I am going back to the tuner with it.  What would be suggested to the tuner to correct or look for to correct the the tune.  What in the Lamdba should be changed?

IMO that would be a little rich and you would lose the ability to run closed loop at cruise. Your fuel mileage would probably be less also.
I had a rich area in the past, and riders behind me actually complained of "fumes" coming from my bike!!!
It does not take much to make an A/F change.
Dyno time would probably take 4-6 hrs to get a complete tune, and the AFR will change depending on TP or MAP (on the new bikes) and RPM's
You may want to check a tune from another who has your same build, just to compare. It may put your mind to ease to know that yours is similar to someone else's who's bike is running "perfect"!
Just a thought.
 

[jarica]

Smart Tune or the latest SEST has a feature for setting the Stoich of the fuel.  They give you a 10% ethanol option and a 26% Ethanol option.  The issue with this is how consistent is the Ethanol mixture in the gas where you live and even worse across country when touring.  Most gas pumps in Dallas say "may contain up to 10% ethanol", does not give the exact percentage.  For a safety factor use the 10% Ethanol setting in the AFR table and Smart Tune the VE tables with the 10% ethanol option.  You can "toggle" the AFR table back and forth between 14.6 and 10% Ethanol and see how much fuel is being added in either AFR mode or Lambda mode.  Once your VE tables are calibrated then the AFR table will be accurately used by the ECU to deliever fuel based on RPM/MAP.  If the VE tables are not calibrated then the fuel delivery will not be accurate.  The fastest way and most complete way to accomplish the VE calibration would be on a dyno.  Send me a PM if you have any questions.

I'm considering going with either a SE Pro Supertuner or TTS.  Do you have any opinions on which one is best?  Also, would you do a dyno tune with either tuner?
Rick

[Mr. Wizard]

I'm considering going with either a SE Pro Supertuner or TTS.  Do you have any opinions on which one is best?  Also, would you do a dyno tune with either tuner?
Rick

jarica, with the fullsac X pipe and 2.0 baffles you are getting, definitely go with the TTS and the stage 1 map from Steve. It doesn't take but an afternoon to reset the VE tables with the VTune software if that. No need to dyno. I've tweaked the same map a little and have a rocket to ride and still get 43.3 mpg.

Oh, yes, keep your stock baffle material in the exhaust cans. When your old stock baffles come out, just slide your 2.0's in.

[jarica]

jarica, with the fullsac X pipe and 2.0 baffles you are getting, definitely go with the TTS and the stage 1 map from Steve. It doesn't take but an afternoon to reset the VE tables with the VTune software if that. No need to dyno. I've tweaked the same map a little and have a rocket to ride and still get 43.3 mpg.

Oh, yes, keep your stock baffle material in the exhaust cans. When your old stock baffles come out, just slide your 2.0's in.

Thanks for the info.  Based on the responses in this forum, it sounds like the TTS is the way to go.

Rick