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[mcflyer]

HD PUTS THAT ON FROM THE FACTORY SO THAT THE STEEL PLUG IN THE ALUMINUM PAN WONT SEIZE IN THERE.  THAY ALSO USE IT AS A GUAGE TO SEE IF THE CUSTOMER HAS ACTUALLY CHANGED THE OIL IF THERE ARE WARRANTY ISSUES RELATING TO LUBRICATION OR A LACK THERE OF.

[ronw48]

Well, I stopped by the dealership after work today and spoke to the owner.  He agreed that yes, it comes from the factory on the plugs, but it should have been taken off at the 1000 mile service.  He also acknowledged that he knew I have had a lot of problems with the service department and that all of my complaints had been valid.  He said he was going to check and see which technician did the service, and make sure they all knew that it was supposed to be removed and not reapplied.  I guess that is about all I can expect them to do at this point.

[ultrafxr]

HD PUTS THAT ON FROM THE FACTORY SO THAT THE STEEL PLUG IN THE ALUMINUM PAN WONT SEIZE IN THERE.  THAY ALSO USE IT AS A GUAGE TO SEE IF THE CUSTOMER HAS ACTUALLY CHANGED THE OIL IF THERE ARE WARRANTY ISSUES RELATING TO LUBRICATION OR A LACK THERE OF.

Tech told me to use Teflon paste (comes in a little tube) sparingly on the threads of the drain plugs.  Acts as a lubricant (as does the Teflon tape) and as you said guards against problems with the dissimilar metals.  Personally I would not use the tape but use the paste, sparingly.

[roadrunner]

Tech told me to use Teflon paste (comes in a little tube) sparingly on the threads of the drain plugs.  Acts as a lubricant (as does the Teflon tape) and as you said guards against problems with the dissimilar metals.  Personally I would not use the tape but use the paste, sparingly.

Agree, helps with corrosion (similar to pipe dope on plumbing threads assists with easy removal).

My 2 cents!

[grandpadoc]

I have a older bike and use the paste everytime cause the machining isn't perfect on my oil pan and the o-ring gets cut. Sometimes it will last till the next change but othertimes it breaks and cause a slow leak. With the paste the o-ring is optional, but I still use it. Its amazing how well that paste works.  Doc

[tennisman]

Have used Teflon tapes on drain plugs on engines since Eisenhower was prez and never had a problem, a leak, or had to pay for unnecessary O-rings.  It's NO problem if installed correctly (wound in the correct direction and not on the first thread at the end of the plug).
T-man

[bobaroni]

Yeah, potential friction from that is something even a good taping couldn't fix.  That's the kind of stuff that could get a guy banned !

Too funny Don

[cahdbiker]

ronw48, I had the dealer do the 1000 mile service on my 09 SEUC (I got it in Sept. 2008) After my vacation I had put close to 5000 miles on it total so I changed out all the fluids to redline products. I used a permanent marker to mark the bolt and the case so I wouldn't over torque anything. However, when I undid the plugs non of them were very tight. Also they had some kind of white substance on them that looked more like white paint, but it was probably Perrmatex thread sealant.(which is white ) After draining I installed new O rings and lubricated them with plumber's grease (it is meant to lubricate rubber without causing it to deteriorate, you can get it at most plumbing supply stores) and it helps you to not tear the O ring when you torque it down. I used my torque wrench and all three drain plugs went a little bit past the mark I made on the cases and bolt heads before they reached the proper torque. I have had a lot of problems over the years with mechanics not tightening drain plugs etc enough so I always check my drain plugs if I have to have someone else do a service.  Just the experience I had when I changed out my fluids I thought I would pass it along. CAHDBIKER

[tennisman]

Cripes, if you can get down to check 'em, may as well do the job yourself - it ain't that hard. 
But, to each his own.

[ronw48]

ronw48, I had the dealer do the 1000 mile service on my 09 SEUC (I got it in Sept. 2008) After my vacation I had put close to 5000 miles on it total so I changed out all the fluids to redline products. I used a permanent marker to mark the bolt and the case so I wouldn't over torque anything. However, when I undid the plugs non of them were very tight. Also they had some kind of white substance on them that looked more like white paint, but it was probably Perrmatex thread sealant.(which is white ) After draining I installed new O rings and lubricated them with plumber's grease (it is meant to lubricate rubber without causing it to deteriorate, you can get it at most plumbing supply stores) and it helps you to not tear the O ring when you torque it down. I used my torque wrench and all three drain plugs went a little bit past the mark I made on the cases and bolt heads before they reached the proper torque. I have had a lot of problems over the years with mechanics not tightening drain plugs etc enough so I always check my drain plugs if I have to have someone else do a service.  Just the experience I had when I changed out my fluids I thought I would pass it along. CAHDBIKER

Thanks for the info.  I think the techs are just trying to cover all the bases because of previous problems.  I let them do the 1000 mi service just in case anything showed up that needed repaired.  From now on, I'll be doing them myself.

 

Cripes, if you can get down to check 'em, may as well do the job yourself - it ain't that hard. 
But, to each his own.

I agree, but sometimes there are other things going on that make it necessary to let them do it.

[SIX38]

My two cents worth. Makes perfect sense to add some type of lubricant (SMALL amount of Teflon tape, Teflon paste or anti-seize compound) when a new plug is installed for the first time in a new pan. That will prevent "galling" (tearing) of the threads that can happen with dry threads, especially steel into aluminum. Once placed into service, the residual oil on the threads should be sufficient. Always install a new o-ring and thread plug into hole by hand before tightening. If it does not go in smoothly, check further, something is not right. Properly tightened (14 to 21 ft lbs), vibration is not an issue because there is no external force acting on the plug. Adding EXCESS tape dope can actually prevent the plug from being properly tightened.
 If a drain plug does not have a o-ring and uses tapered pipe threads (NPT) to seal, than some type of thread sealant should be used. I prefer a Teflon paste like Permatex thread sealant with Teflon.

Tom P. 

[tennisman]

Folks need to understand that all that is needed to hold a drain plug in is just a tweak past finger tight.  There is no load on the plug in operation; ya just need enough torque so it doesn't loosen and vibrate out.
T

[ultrafxr]

Several years ago when removing tranny drain plug it just felt 'funny' after I loosened it and was removing it.  Found out why when I saw all the aluminum thread particles come out with the drain plug.  I think a grease monkey doing a service (yeah I had not learned my lesson to ALWAYS do my own fluid changes) must have boogered it up by overtightening or maybe lack of any lubrication on the threads.  Anyway had to replace the drain pan and determined to always do my own fluid changes from then on.

Personally I never thighten the drain plugs to the moco specs.  I just think that is way too much torque on the soft aluminum threads.  The 0-ring is what makes the seal and I always replace that.  I just hand thighten and then 'snug it up' with the wrench and have never had any leak or problem.  This technique and using the Teflon paste on the plug threads was told to me by a master tech based on his experience.

[ultrafxr]

Folks need to understand that all that is needed to hold a drain plug in is just a tweak past finger tight.  There is no load on the plug in operation; ya just need enough torque so it doesn't loosen and vibrate out.
T

T, you posted this while I was composing my post.  I see we are in complete agreement.   

[tennisman]

ULTRAFXR:

Yepper, great minds think alike!!