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[FR8TRN]

Well for those that don't want to go to the HID setup, here is a bit cheaper alternative.

[GC_Super]

I had the same thoughts on just putting a standard lite with bulb upgrades on mine.  My E-Glide was set up that way and it was great. Very seldom did I ever flip on the brights. Much better than this so called improved headlite we have now.

[FR8TRN]

I had the same thoughts on just putting a standard lite with bulb upgrades on mine.

[spydglide]

Hey FR8TRN, you'll want to keep a check on the internals of the light(s) since changing to a higher wattage bulb.  I changed mine on my FLSTN and melted some of the internals due to increased heat.  Finally had to change back to stock wattage.  The increased light was great while it lasted, though.   har!  spyder

[FR8TRN]

I'll do that, never had any issues in the past though.  What housings did you have a problem with??

[mr_magoo]

Thanks for the info FR8TRN thats good to know as the lights do seem a little weak.

[spydglide]

I'll do that, never had any issues in the past though.

[arcticdude]

I had the Custom Chrome 110,000 candlepower spots on my 01 ultra.  They're on page 5.17, part #15086, for $16.99 ea.  They worked outstandingly well.  Kept them when I sold that ride, because I new the new one would need them.  I almost never used the highbeam, once the spots were adjusted to my liking.  Of course, they use about 2hp because of the power drain, but since we've all got extra, who cares!!!

[spydglide]

I had the Custom Chrome 110,000 candlepower spots on my 01 ultra.

[RJ749]

Well for those that don't want to go to the HID setup, here is a bit cheaper alternative.

[UK Dave]

Hey Guys, be careful with these lighting upgrades.

See this thread for what happened to me

http://flhrsei.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?num=1140819213/1#1

The lighting fuse is rated at 15A on the SEEG

This will let you run 220 watts of lighting (15A x 14.7V = 220W)

Upgrading passing lamps to 55W each is half of the allowance at 110w

A couple of turn signal lamps at 21w each is another 42w (only while they are on o'course)

Headlamp at 65w and tail lamp at 5w and you are theoretically over the limit.

Dab the brakes and add another 21w plus any other doo-dads you might have and it's easy to over do it and end up with no lights - been there done that

I upraded the fuse on my old '98 Classic to 25A and everything was fine. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

Cheers

Dave

[grc]

Caution!  Be careful about just putting in a higher rated fuse also.  The wiring may not be heavy enough to handle a significantly higher current, and instead of the fuse blowing you could have a "major thermal event" (melted connector, wire, etc).  While there is normally a small safety factor engineered in, a manufacturer seldom uses a heavier gauge wire than is necessary due to cost.  Just as you would not install a 20 or 30 amp fuse or breaker in a 15 amp circuit in your house, you don't want to eliminate the safety factor by upsizing the fuses in your bike.

Jerry

[arcticdude]

Spyder,
It's a fine line, but when they're aimed just to the right of center, I find about 60% of cars won't flash me.  I feel that's acceptable.  I'll admit, it probably P-O's some of the cagers, but it's them or me.  At least I know they see me.

[Mike103]

Well for those that don't want to go to the HID setup, here is a bit cheaper alternative.

[UK Dave]

Caution!