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[RedEagle]

Its about that time!
I have changed my oil before but I would like to be squared away before I start.
I did a search but I get so many hits when you type in oil.
I will be doing the change in my new FLHTCUSE5.
I have a jack stand and it is now quite level so I am looking for fluid amounts too.
The primary you fill to a a level on the opening I will need to measure a set amount.
If any of out resident wrenches have a procedure so I can do this in a couple of hours instead of all day...*S
Thanks
RedEagle

[Beak Boater]

If you bought it new, then you probably got an owners manual. It has a wealth of information about fluid changes, and capcities.

[ssls6]

Its about that time!
I have changed my oil before but I would like to be squared away before I start.
I did a search but I get so many hits when you type in oil.
I will be doing the change in my new FLHTCUSE5.
I have a jack stand and it is now quite level so I am looking for fluid amounts too.
The primary you fill to a a level on the opening I will need to measure a set amount.
If any of out resident wrenches have a procedure so I can do this in a couple of hours instead of all day...*S
Thanks
RedEagle

I did my 1k service recently, so here is what I did (I also have the service manuals).

Bike level, drain the oil and replace filter, 4 Qts added back (validated after riding to be right for my bike)
Bike level, drain primary and add back 38 fluid ounces (validated with oil touching the bottom of the clutch plates)
Bike level, drain tranny and add back 32 fluid ounces (validated with dip stick)

one of my o-rings (tranny I think) got cut on removal so I replaced it.  When I bought a new primary gasket it came with 3 o-rings for the various drain plugs.  I did not use the new derby gasket, will save it for the next time.

I had to loosen a passenger peg to get the derby cover off, no big deal to swing it out of the way.  I followed the book for my service, I'm only relating the oil change part.  One thing I did do is re-torque the oil cooler adapter.

Richard

[9 1/2 Beers]

Its about that time!
I have changed my oil before but I would like to be squared away before I start.
I did a search but I get so many hits when you type in oil.
I will be doing the change in my new FLHTCUSE5.
I have a jack stand and it is now quite level so I am looking for fluid amounts too.
The primary you fill to a a level on the opening I will need to measure a set amount.
If any of out resident wrenches have a procedure so I can do this in a couple of hours instead of all day...*S
Thanks
RedEagle

 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=106&pcid=19

[DESERTBEAR54]

110 Mofo that was the most important part on the post for the oil change question. Redline!!

[SBB]

110 Mofo that was the most important part on the post for the oil change question. Redline!!

And don't forget the extra qt. of primary fluid when you order.

SBB

[RedEagle]

I did my 1k service recently, so here is what I did (I also have the service manuals).

Bike level, drain the oil and replace filter, 4 Qts added back (validated after riding to be right for my bike)
Bike level, drain primary and add back 38 fluid ounces (validated with oil touching the bottom of the clutch plates)
Bike level, drain tranny and add back 32 fluid ounces (validated with dip stick)

one of my o-rings (tranny I think) got cut on removal so I replaced it.  When I bought a new primary gasket it came with 3 o-rings for the various drain plugs.  I did not use the new derby gasket, will save it for the next time.

I had to loosen a passenger peg to get the derby cover off, no big deal to swing it out of the way.  I followed the book for my service, I'm only relating the oil change part.  One thing I did do is re-torque the oil cooler adapter.

Richard

Thanks Richard
My Service Manual with the SE supplement is on order.
and when you say level,  Is garage floor good?
The reason I ask is I have done this with my RK on my lift and it was not level though it looked like it was but it was NOT level.  I had to suck some oil out of the tranny.
Do you tq any of the plugs or derby cover?  I have a in. lb. tq wrench.
Bill

[RedEagle]

Thanks Marty I saved that link!!

[RedEagle]

And don't forget the extra qt. of primary fluid when you order.

SBB

110 MoFo
Why an Extra quart?  What am I missing?

[ultrafxr]

110 MoFo
Why an Extra quart?  What am I missing?

One quart won't do.  It holds 38 oz.  You'll need a second quart for the additional 6 oz required.

[grc]

Thanks Richard
My Service Manual with the SE supplement is on order.
and when you say level,  Is garage floor good?
The reason I ask is I have done this with my RK on my lift and it was not level though it looked like it was but it was NOT level.  I had to suck some oil out of the tranny.
Do you tq any of the plugs or derby cover?  I have a in. lb. tq wrench.Bill

Most definitely use a torque wrench, especially when dealing with steel fasteners going into aluminum like on a Harley engine or trans. 

Level only means not on the jiffy stand, not necessarily perfectly level as measured with a spirit level or some other instrument.  If you want to remove the maximum amount of old oil and crud from the primary, drain it on the jiffy stand.  I drain all of my fluids hot, and start out on the jiffy stand when I pull all three drain plugs.  After the primary has drained, then I sit the bike up level to make sure the oil tank and trans drain as much as possible.


Jerry

[RedEagle]

Duh...!

Thanks

[Boatman]

Everyone has given you good advice.  Not to confuse you more but:

I do as GRC does and change the primary oil and oil and filter on the side stand as those 2 drain plugs are on that side.  Take a empty flat gallon jug (like antifreeze comes in), lay it on it's flat side and cut the top off the other side, slide it under the bike and will easily catch what you drained out-motor oil.  With the gallon jug you can also see what you drained out (3-4qts).

Then I put a 2X4 under the jiffy stand and drain the tranny fluid.  The 2X4 puts my 10 upright and the tranny fluid will mostly drain thru the hole in the crossmember instead of running all over the crossmember-this refers to only 09 and later Touring models .

Lastly, I only run 1 qt of Redline MTL in the primary.  (probably the only one on here that does).  I don't profess to know more than Harley but when I put one qt in, I can see the primary oil at the bottom of the clutch basket.  Seems enough for me.  I also don't like to have partial qts around.

Good luck.

[ssls6]

For me, bike level is on my lift with front wheel in the clamp.  It is not perfect but good enough.  The primary uses 38 oz. per the book and my bike used the same.  You can see a drop of oil between the clutch basket and cover but this is because they are so close, if you keep adding oil that drop won't move up until you hit 38 oz.  I am comfortable with the 38 oz. requirement for what it's worth.

the torque spec is 12-14 ft-lbs for the drain plugs or something like that, don't trust my memory.  I tend to go on the low side from experience so I'm pretty sure I used 12 ft-lbs.  I never torque the derby screws, hand tight with my T-torx wrenches, it's a 27 and not a 25, don't use the 25 or you can strip them.

[RedEagle]

Thank You guys for all the good info.
I think I will drain all the fluids with the bike on the side stand, instead of my ATV type of lift.

I was surfing and found How to vids.  Here is one about adjusting the primary chain.  Follow the link and there is more on maintenace how to's.  I dont get youtube here, but they have some also.

http://www.ehow.com/video_2330189_adjust-motorcycle-primary.html?wa%5Fvlsrc=continuous&cp=1&wa%5Fvrid=b6bf9ef4%2Dba38%2D4874%2Db6d1%2De39040762ed2&pid=1

RedEagle