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[Banana man]

With a taller wheel the rake stays the same but the trail changes.  If you're accutely aware of how your bike handles in the twisties, you will notice a difference.

Can you elaborate on what the difference would be? How would it change the handling

[JCZ]

Can you elaborate on what the difference would be? How would it change the handling

One of the magazines that I subscribe to had an article on it awhile back, with diagrams, etc.  There's a bunch of stuff on the net about it but this will get you started....   http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/rake_and_trail.htm

[Twolanerider]

Can you elaborate on what the difference would be? How would it change the handling

As a general rule of thumb less rake angle favors low speed maneuvering.  More favors high speed cruising at the expense of low speed handling.  But this is all very general as the bikes CG, weight, tire size, springs, quality of suspension front and rear and a myriad of other things all factor in.

[JCZ]

Here's one that shows the diagram....   http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_art/photo_02.html

Larger diameter wheel increases the trail....and decreases handling at slow speeds.  You mentioned that two guys that have the big wheel told you that it tends to want to flop at slow speeds.

[Banana man]

One of the magazines that I subscribe to had an article on it awhile back, with diagrams, etc.  There's a bunch of stuff on the net about it but this will get you started....   http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/rake_and_trail.htm

Thanks very informative, never was into the geometry of the bikes before but I am always
willing to learn to make my bike better.

So if you put a 21 on it will increase the trail and make the bike handle a little more sluggishly in higher speed
turns?

[Banana man]

As a general rule of thumb less rake angle favors low speed maneuvering.  More favors high speed cruising at the expense of low speed handling.  But this is all very general as the bikes CG, weight, tire size, springs, quality of suspension front and rear and a myriad of other things all factor in.

I think when you raise the front the CG will go more toward the rear of the bike and my
suspension should be fine (progressive monotubes front and 940 touring shocks rear) don't know how
the other factors will figure in.

[Twolanerider]

I think when you raise the front the CG will go more toward the rear of the bike and my
suspension should be fine (progressive monotubes front and 940 touring shocks rear) don't know how
the other factors will figure in.

Good suspension will make significant difference Mark.  Every bit as much as a couple of degrees of rake or trail.  Have discussed with Terry and Otis and others that after making the changes to the Traxxion Dynamics front end or the Progressive Monotube front end that the difference gained made the bike ride differently.  The lines through the twisties are immediately different and you've got to relearn where to put the bike to take best advantage.  So, yeah, it is everything that goes in to the package of "handling."  You're only considering one of many factors when you think about the wheel swap.

[boerne free bird]

I am fortunate to have owned numerous bikes over the years. I enjoy taking a new project then making if fit me.

Over the past few years I have learned the difference between stock (terrible) suspension, upgrades, and "individualized" suspension which is sprung to my weight and riding style. I love to ride Hill Country twistees.

For performace, I get rid of the cat and do stage one upgrades (with a tune) immediately. However, I now spend the next increment of cash on suspension rather than stage two performance. Stage two will be done eventually, but as I have learned more about fine tuning suspension, it has take priority.

There is a small persentage of the time I spend riding that I'll notice the difference between 90 HP and 105 HP (and torque equivalents). However, in almost all riding situations I appreciate predictable throttle response, less engine heat, and upgraded suspension.

This is a long-winded way of suggesting you read the supsension refeences carefully and then set up the bike for how and where you want to ride it.

[Midnight Rider]

There is a small persentage of the time I spend riding that I'll notice the difference between 90 HP and 105 HP (and torque equivalents). However, in almost all riding situations I appreciate predictable throttle response, less engine heat, and upgraded suspension.

Agree with you 110%....all the power in the world is useless unless you only ride in straight lines.  Good suspension and knowing how to keep the bike in the right gear when riding twisties will allow a person to ride these bikes to their physical limitations...where you start dragging hard parts in the turns.

You mean everybody doesn't do that already?

[thouliares]

I have a set of 18" 2010 CVO Street Glide wheels for sale.. Chrome and Contrast, both front rotors , with front tire, rear wheel no rotor, and no tire. Bearings for both wheels imcluded.  1300 miles on them. They are perfect. No blemishes.. I'll take $1000 for all. The 18" look great, i just want more chrome. If you price all this out, its about $1700.

[shindo]

I have an 18'' x 4.25 r and 21'' x 3'' f  with a 150 and 120 metz on my 2000 Ultra. The bike rode fine no issues at all.

[shindo]

ll

[Banana man]

I am fortunate to have owned numerous bikes over the years. I enjoy taking a new project then making if fit me.

Over the past few years I have learned the difference between stock (terrible) suspension, upgrades, and "individualized" suspension which is sprung to my weight and riding style. I love to ride Hill Country twistees.

For performace, I get rid of the cat and do stage one upgrades (with a tune) immediately. However, I now spend the next increment of cash on suspension rather than stage two performance. Stage two will be done eventually, but as I have learned more about fine tuning suspension, it has take priority.

There is a small persentage of the time I spend riding that I'll notice the difference between 90 HP and 105 HP (and torque equivalents). However, in almost all riding situations I appreciate predictable throttle response, less engine heat, and upgraded suspension.

This is a long-winded way of suggesting you read the supsension refeences carefully and then set up the bike for how and where you want to ride it.

I think you are right on target, suspension and horsepower work together to make your bike fun
to ride. Upgrades to both are mandatory!!!!!

[Banana man]

Agree with you 110%....all the power in the world is useless unless you only ride in straight lines.  Good suspension and knowing how to keep the bike in the right gear when riding twisties will allow a person to ride these bikes to their physical limitations...where you start dragging hard parts in the turns.

You mean everybody doesn't do that already?

Terry, both of my floorboards show a lot of wear from being on the ground at times
when in the mountains.

[Banana man]

ll

Great looking front end on your bike, noticed you lowered the front suspension
as well. Really like the wheel also.