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[FADBOY]

When I first got the FLSTSE2 I told my mates to hold back a bit as I've got to run it in
In the manual it says for the first 500 miles don't go over 3500 rpm for the full 1000 don't go over 4000 rpm,
Do they realise that's over 80mph and then 90mph my mates couldn't keep up, can't wait for it to be fully run in!

[GregKhougaz]

May want to read this:  Break In Secrets.

[FADBOY]

Hi, yes I've read that before but I've still ran all my cars and bikes to the manufacturers book, but this time it really does seem to be a liitle hard on the engine because you can easily be doing over 80mph during the first 500, even when it's run in I can't see me doing much more than 4000 rpm.

Out of interest what type of run in have others done on this forum?

[Midnight Rider]

Hi, yes I've read that before but I've still ran all my cars and bikes to the manufacturers book, but this time it really does seem to be a liitle hard on the engine because you can easily be doing over 80mph during the first 500, even when it's run in I can't see me doing much more than 4000 rpm.

Out of interest what type of run in have others done on this forum?

Perhaps not in 6th gear (very often), but running it up to 5800 going through the lower gears is not all that unusual for some riders.  My "normal" shift point is 3500-4000, and I never let the RPM get below 2K when moving, even on flat ground...it lugs the engine, which is horrible for it.

I am personally a firm beleiver in running the RPM up to at least 3500, then letting the engine brake the bike back down to 2K, usually 3rd gear runs for the first 50 miles or so.  I think it helps seat the rings better, but I could be full of chit too...

[sadunbar]

Perhaps not in 6th gear (very often), but running it up to 5800 going through the lower gears is not all that unusual for some riders.  My "normal" shift point is 3500-4000, and I never let the RPM get below 2K when moving, even on flat ground...it lugs the engine, which is horrible for it.

I am personally a firm beleiver in running the RPM up to at least 3500, then letting the engine brake the bike back down to 2K, usually 3rd gear runs for the first 50 miles or so.  I think it helps seat the rings better, but I could be full of chit too...

     Say it ain't so, Terry!   

[chywy]

Perhaps not in 6th gear (very often), but running it up to 5800 going through the lower gears is not all that unusual for some riders.  My "normal" shift point is 3500-4000, and I never let the RPM get below 2K when moving, even on flat ground...it lugs the engine, which is horrible for it.

I am personally a firm beleiver in running the RPM up to at least 3500, then letting the engine brake the bike back down to 2K, usually 3rd gear runs for the first 50 miles or so.  I think it helps seat the rings better, but I could be full of chit too...

I had my bike dyno tuned with 800 miles and they rap it to and past 6000 rpms during the tune after adding the SEPT kit.  But I guess I'm going to have a find a lonely stretch of highway and check out shift points at 4000 rpms - I think my max torque is at 3250 through all the gears - should be an interesting ride through 3rd gear   

CHYWY

[Chains]

May want to read this:  Break In Secrets.

All along everyone told me I was running the crap out of my new vehicles when all I was doing was the proper break-in procedure officer.

[chywy]

Yeah, the bike likes 4000 rpm as a shift points - definitely gets you from point A to point B in a hurry.  Haven't visited 6000 yet - but I'd probably have to be on a race track or climbing a dirt hill in Sturgis 
Ride Safe and Enjoy

CHYWY

[2smoke]

There are a lot of differing opinions on this but if you carefully read the break in article linked in the post he stresses 2 points:

       1. Always make sure the engine is properly warmed up before any high RPM usage.

       2. DO NOT let a new engine sit at one RPM for a period of time.  Always very the RPM.

My Buick street/strip car had over 300 1/4 mile runs at 7,000 RPM shift points.  This was all on the same long block.  Cast crank and stock con rods (balanced).  The engine was always properly warmed up because it was driven to the track.  Never beat on a cold engine!!